little shack
Well-Known Member
Hi folks just a quick one.Wanting to glue a a loosening piece of rubbing strake will clamp in place untill it goes of.what do you wood experts use.Thanks
wood glue?
- Thread starter little shack
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Tranona
Well-Known Member
What is the wood and more importantly what are you sticking it to? The usual problem with rubbing strakes is cleaning the faces and devising a method of clamping the two parts together while the adhesive cures. Mechanical fastenings may also be needed to reinforce the joint.
yoda
Well-Known Member
Use a polyurethane glue, about £6 a tube and is great stuff even on teak. Bonds quickly and is very strong. Can be found at Toolstation and B&Q amongst others.
Yoda
Yoda
forelle541
Well-Known Member
Gorilla glue from B&Q brilliant stuff and in small quantities.
VicS
Well-Known Member
Was very impressed by Gorilla glue when i saw it being used to scarf in a new section of rubbing strake ( thats "Gorilla Glue", which I think is a polyurethane not "Gorilla Wood Glue" which is a PVA) Foams as it cures so needs to be well clamped.
Other wise I would use epoxy ( Araldite non-rapid)
nigelmercier
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It's a bitch when it foams in the bottle, then explodes all over the inside of the boat. Ask me how I know.
TQA
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Not been that impressed with gorilla glue and other adhesives of that type. Pretty good gap filling but penetration seems poor and the joint strength is also poor.
If it were mine it would be West System a runny coat then some wood fibres to thicken it up for gap filling.
If it were mine it would be West System a runny coat then some wood fibres to thicken it up for gap filling.
oldsaltoz
Well-Known Member
Somewhere in the back of my foggy mind I seem to remember (and this is a lot years ago) we used to mix resin with tiny bits of ground up fibreglass off-cuts, it was used a glue and the common name was Gorilla Hair.
I winder if this a commercial variation on a very old recipe ???
Good luck and fair winds.
Woodlouse
Well-Known Member
I'd probably bodge it with 3M 5200.
MASH
N/A
+1 for Gorilla Glue. Wonderful stuff. Sticks almost anything to almost anything else, fills gaps, sands easily, cure is unaffected by temperature and in my experience bond strength is excellent.
Don't get it on your fingers or you'll have sticky fingerprints everywhere, and nothing removes it.
Don't get it on your fingers or you'll have sticky fingerprints everywhere, and nothing removes it.
alahol2
Well-Known Member
Gorilla glue and its equivalents are good and, yes, they do fill gaps. BUT the gaps so filled do not have any strength. Any joint needs to be well engineered to be a close fit otherwise the joint will not have good strength.
PCUK
Well-Known Member
I'd second West epoxy with some filler powder to stop it running out.
rogerthebodger
Well-Known Member
polyurethane glue is IMHO the only glue to use on wood. straight epoxy can be brittle and crack as wood expands and contracts when the wood gets wet. If you don't have a tight fitting joint or a gap I use some saw dust of the same wood so the colour of the gap does not show too much.
sailorman
Well-Known Member
rogerthebodger
Well-Known Member
You Sir seem to be a bodger, if you dont mine me saying so
I've been called Roger the dodger , Roger the lodger but no one who has seen my work has ever called me Roger the bodger before. Thats a new must tell my mates down the marina that one
lw395
Well-Known Member
Putting sanding dust from the wood, or sawdust into epoxy is not at all a bodge, it is good practice to prevent too much of the epoxy soaking away from the joint, weakening it.
But I don't agree epoxy is exactly brittle, used correctly it has good mechanical properties for a glue.
Aerolite is brittle!
sailorman
Well-Known Member
If your joints do not fit, fill them up with glue & shit
Woodlouse
Well-Known Member
All glues have their good points and are better suited to certain applications than others. Polyurethane is good for damp timber with good joints as it's moisture cured and has not strength where allowed to foam up in gaps. It will not however cure properly on dry timber unless it's been wetted first. Epoxy is good for dry timber and loves a bit of a gap. Resorcinol is good for dry timber with good tight joints, but doesn't like too much moisture in the timber nor gaps. For moist timber, with loose joints I'd be inclined to use a product such as Sikaflex or 5200 since it's again moisture cured and can tolerate a bit of a gap.
You don't use straight epoxy for anything really. For gluing micro fibres are the best additive, since it adds strength and avoids the brittleness that you mention.
little shack
Well-Known Member
Thanks folks shall have a think on that.
Thistle
Well-Known Member
Aerolite.
