Wood Cutting...

This will be very difficult. At best you might achieve 40x9 using a table saw with a very thin blade. Keeping the thickness constant while cutting through the smaller dimension will be a challenge.
 
Bandsaw will give a wobbly cut. Table saw cut will need cleaning up after so you'll be lucky to lose less than another 2mm for that. That makes 4 to 6 mm gone in waste and battens only 40 by 7 left.
If you need 10mm thickness then only way I can see is to cut em off at 11 mm and plane down to thickness. So you'll have a strip abt 5 mm thick left over
 
yachtailsa said:
If I have 40mm by 20mm planks and the willingness to buy a tool for the job, what's the best way to turn them into 40mm by 10mm planks?

How about this?

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Scheppach-8...e=UTF8&qid=1416761747&sr=1-1&keywords=bandsaw
Click to expand...

A table saw will do it, but you will end up with 8mm with one face of each sawn finish (assuming your stock is PAR). If you are using it for your cockpit seats then that would be fine. No need to plane the saw finish as that will be ideal for bedding in adhesive.

Expensive way of getting the right stuff for your cockpit unless you have a subsequent use for the table saw!
 
What about using a circular saw upside down bolted/clamped in a workmate? As long as you pay due care and make up fences etc it should work great with the right blade. Or will the H&S police stop you?

I have seen a circular saw in an attachment table for this purpose, I just cannot remember where
 
A decent bandsaw fitted with a decent blade will do the cut with the minimum waste and no, it won't be wobbly unless the saw is rubbish - allow for maybe about a 1.5 to 2mm kerf for a small bandsaw. Use the biggest blade you can fit, with the lowest tpi. I recommend either http://tuffsaws.co.uk or http://www.cutting-solutions.co.uk for the blade (the one supplied by the manufacturer might be ok but maybe not if the bandsaw is at the cheaper end of the range). There are a few good how-to's on the web showing how to set the saw up so it cuts straight - this one seems to work with mine and many others from what I hear https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wGbZqWac0jU

Depending on how much you have to cut, and whether you need to clean the cut up, my first choice would be a hand plane to retain the maximum thickness - you can use the marks from the blade as a guide to keep you planing square and remove the barest minimum. With care you might manage to end up with a finished thickness of around 8mm, provided your timber is straight to start with. If the timber is going to be screwed to a wall or similar, you can get away without planing it. If you've got miles of timber to machine then you might want to run it through a thicknesser, which is more money to spend (or find someone who can do it for you).

ps A bandsaw is probably the single most useful and versatile workshop machine - once you get one you won't want to get rid of it.
 
PabloPicasso said:
What about using a circular saw upside down bolted/clamped in a workmate? As long as you pay due care and make up fences etc it should work great with the right blade. Or will the H&S police stop you?

I have seen a circular saw in an attachment table for this purpose, I just cannot remember where
Click to expand...

Had one in the past with an old Black & Decker circular saw- worked sort of Ok but very dangerous so went out an bought an inexpensive table saw. Been brilliant over the years, used it loads, well worth the money.
 
that Sheppach is a baby, and nowhere near big enough for a re-sawing job.


Best would be to hand it to a pro woodworking shop with a horizontal bandsaw. These have top and bottom plates to control the workpiece. You will still lose the thickness of the blade though, so a 20mm starting thickness will not make 2 x 10 mm finals.. Properly set up there will be no blade wobble and the surface will be relatively fair, needing little finishing.


What usually happens to make a 10mm plank is to saw to say 16mm depth, then run it through a planer/thicknesser.
 
richardabeattie said:
OK OP now tell us why you want to do it!
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It's a follow on from my decking query. I've got a fair quantity of iroko bench slats in those dimensions - and the easy option to obtain more cheaply. I'm pondering chopping them down for cockpit and cabin sole decking.

After all of the above I'm considering adding a cheapo thicknesser to my shipping-container workshop.
 
yachtailsa said:
It's a follow on from my decking query. I've got a fair quantity of iroko bench slats in those dimensions - and the easy option to obtain more cheaply. I'm pondering chopping them down for cockpit and cabin sole decking.

After all of the above I'm considering adding a cheapo thicknesser to my shipping-container workshop.
Click to expand...


I am with cus here I fink.

A thicknesser is a .... thicknesser.

A table saw can rip, crosscut, mitre, rebate and groove. It can cut joints for you, coopered work is easy and frames are a piece of cake The standard of finish from a sharp TCT blade is usable from the saw. Tho the perfectionist may want to tickle it with a hand plane.

The drawback is price, a cheapo job will disappoint. If this is a worry then follow the other advice a get a woodshop to do the ripping for you.
 
doug748 said:
I am with cus here I fink.

A thicknesser is a .... thicknesser.

A table saw can rip, crosscut, mitre, rebate and groove. It can cut joints for you, coopered work is easy and frames are a piece of cake The standard of finish from a sharp TCT blade is usable from the saw. Tho the perfectionist may want to tickle it with a hand plane.

The drawback is price, a cheapo job will disappoint. If this is a worry then follow the other advice a get a woodshop to do the ripping for you.
Click to expand...

Would a good bandsaw do it? Table Saws tend to be beyond what my little genny can handle... I do have a cheapo table saw which is actually quite reasonable but can't handle 40mm.

I don't mind investing in tools a bit because I plan to always have a project boat on the go, even after my own boat is in the water and in use. I've found I just enjoy messing with old boats so once mine is done I'll pick-up an eBay special... tools therefore can have use in the future...
 
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The other thing nobody seems to have mentioned is , sometimes when you cut a piece of square sectioned wood in half depending on the stresses in the grain, it can come off the saw blade with maybe a 1" - 2" gap on the exiting cut which is caused by the release of the grain stresses contained within the timber. You maybe lucky and things be ok but I have seen timber which is unusable because of the bow which is introduced. A lot depends on what you want to use it for? If gluing down is considered you maybe better buying actual prepared 10mm timber to start with?

Not wishing to be negative but just a consideration to bare in mind.

If you do use a bandsaw which is probably going to be the best option with regards to blade thickness ( less loss of timber in cut) I would suggest you keep the tension on the blade at maximum to track properly, and adjust top and bottom guides close to the blade so to alleviate wobble, and drop the top blade guide as close to the wood thickness as will allow the cut to run smooth. Also pick the widest blade available with a modest cut and not feed the wood into the blade too quick.

Best of luck

Philip
 
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