Wiring engine hours counter to alternator

nigelmercier said:
NO!

The signal on the tachometer terminal is AC, you can't use it to power the meter.
Click to expand...

You can if its the AC/DC model

Anyway the Op wants it powered continuously ..... for which he will need a power supply which is presumably controlled by the isolator switch and will be DC.

The operating signal can come from the W terminal hopefully. ( via diode ??? if he has ordered a DC model instead of working out what he needs first)


I suggested this as a possible way to wire right at the start of the thread!
 
The model I have is this one, which is an AC/DC model:

http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/hour-...5522677633D4E4F4E45267573743D3138353730383726

The manual instructs:
o Display: Apply DC+ or AC hot to pin 1 and DC– or AC neutral to pin 2. The display is activated at this point but the elapsed time will not be accumulated until a signal is applied to pin 3.
Note, for proper operation: Power must be applied to pins 1 & 2 before or coincident with pin 3.
To Operate: Apply DC+ or AC hot to pin 3 for 2 second minimum (AC/DC model) or DC+ for 1 millisecond mimimum (DC Only model). The accumulation of elapsed time is indicated by the flashing hourglass icon. If power (pins 1 & 2) has been applied for 5 seconds minimum, the accumulated time will be stored in non-volatile memory when power is removed.

If I connect pin 1 to terminal B+ of the alternator, terminal 2 to ground (is that terminal B- of the alternator?) and pin 3 to terminal W I think this should work? Also, it should give me the desired behaviour of display switching on when engine battery master switch is closed, and counting the same number of hours as the original hours meter. It should also be relatively easy to install as the cable runs to the chart table are easier from the engine bay than from the cockpit on my boat.
 
Ric said:
The model I have is this one, which is an AC/DC model:



If I connect pin 1 to terminal B+ of the alternator, terminal 2 to ground (is that terminal B- of the alternator?) and pin 3 to terminal W I think this should work? Also, it should give me the desired behaviour of display switching on when engine battery master switch is closed, and counting the same number of hours as the original hours meter. It should also be relatively easy to install as the cable runs to the chart table are easier from the engine bay than from the cockpit on my boat.
Click to expand...

Yes. Should work.

Put a fuse in the connection to B+ preferably one in the connection to W as well
 
Well I connected it up today and so far very satisfied. It was much easier to install to the alternator terminals than to break into the ignition wiring loom. The display is permanently on while the engine battery master is connected, which is what I wanted, and it starts timing as soon as I start the engine, as opposed to when the ignition is switched on.
 
Ric said:
Well I connected it up today and so far very satisfied. It was much easier to install to the alternator terminals than to break into the ignition wiring loom. The display is permanently on while the engine battery master is connected, which is what I wanted, and it starts timing as soon as I start the engine, as opposed to when the ignition is switched on.
Click to expand...

Good. Thanks for letting us know.

It's what I suggested in #2 although not 100% sure it would work, nor how I would have chosen to do it

I hope you have made a decent neat job of sleeving and securing the wiring in the engine compartment but wasn't it a bit difficult making a good job of fitting fuses in the connections to the alternator?
What sort of fuses and holders have you used?
 
I only fitted a fuse to the B+ terminal, using a waterproof rubber fuse holder and a 5A fuse. As there are three terminals to connect, I could run a single three-core cable back to the chart table All is cable-tied to the existing engine cables. It is a much easier and neater installation than breaking into the wiring loom at the instrument panel.
 
Well would you believe it. After connecting the Curtis hour counter to the alternator as described above - the original Volvo counter has now sprung into life and works perfectly! I can't think of any explanation for this so I presume it is coincidence - but a nice surprise.
 
Ric said:
Well would you believe it. After connecting the Curtis hour counter to the alternator as described above - the original Volvo counter has now sprung into life and works perfectly! I can't think of any explanation for this so I presume it is coincidence - but a nice surprise.
Click to expand...

the lcd`s are prone to colder weather. my meter does`nt work in the winter
 
Previously mine only worked on cold rainy days in winter and gave up for the summer. This is the first occasion it has worked in summer for many years!
 
Can anyone, please, tell me where to buy a Curtis 701 hour meter
as cannot find on ebay or elsewhere?

My alternator light flashes erratically according to revs (It's not the belt)
and the buzzer does not work, where can I get another alarm whilst I am firkling
about and I was thinking of a separate temperature gauge/sounder working off
the head/hose as my old MD 2020 tends to overheat?

Thanks
 
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