Wiring Diagram experts needed

Mr Googler

Mr Googler

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Hi all

have a plan to redo a Volvo edc panel as it’s a bit tired with modern buttons with illuminated LED rings.

the switching side is easy however….”the bulbs” are confusing. From the diagram below…do we think wire r/bl is ve+? Could polarity swap about?


Rest of the manual attached if some one is really bored. Not the same engines I’ll be dealing with but same units

http://www.varen4u.nl/pdfs/volvo/TAMD61A-72J-A_WM_Wiringdiagram.pdf831F2AB9-81E6-4490-9700-8F2869202CC0.jpg
 
Stick a voltmeter across the bulbs in the existing panel. See what the voltage is and what the polarity is. Then you can pick suitable resistors for the LEDs. Probably quicker than decrypting Volvos diagrams. That particular diagram doesnt show the supply connections, you will need to go through the engine and harness diagrams.
 
What boat are you doing up now?

On mine which predates yours Volvo use Red / blue is a secondary positive. i.e. something else has to be switched on first to provide power to it, while in the loom itself orange is a primary positive from the ignition switch. Whether that translates to yours I dont know.
 
Definitely R/BL is +ve.
Fed from key switch pin 15b which as Bruce says is a switched supply. See page 25, item 14 if you need confirmation.
Also page 23 voltmeter item 2 has R/BL as its +ve line.
Needed something to divert my decorating today, thanks!
 
Ace….thanks all.

so if I use leds as part of the switch, treating r/bl as ve+ ….should be ok.

im looking at using the newer type 1 edc buttons but need to check if the loom is 16 pin or 2 x 8 pin.

in answer to @BruceK …..saying nothing till it’s in the bag ??
 
Mr Googler said:
Ace….thanks all.

so if I use leds as part of the switch, treating r/bl as ve+ ….should be ok.

im looking at using the newer type 1 edc buttons but need to check if the loom is 16 pin or 2 x 8 pin.

in answer to @BruceK …..saying nothing till it’s in the bag ??
Click to expand...
Dont tell me you have been given a river boat a Formuseles
 
Mr Googler said:
Thanks K….would resistance be a factor….I was wondering about that too
Click to expand...
Yes, LEDs require a minimum voltage to operate then a max current. If you measure the voltage across the existing bulbs, subtract the LED voltage (different colour LEDS have different voltages) then divide that value by the current you want through the LED will give you the required resistance. If you need any more help send me a PM with which leds you are interested in.
 
petem said:
@Mr Googler on a related note, have you found anyone to make you the new panel that you insert the new momentary switches into? I'd be happy to design something free of charge and organise the manufacture at cost price if it would help.
Click to expand...
That would be great! Thanks ever so much. Will be in touch when I know what’s what. Not over the line till Sunday
 
Mr Googler said:
Hi all

have a plan to redo a Volvo edc panel as it’s a bit tired with modern buttons with illuminated LED rings.

the switching side is easy however….”the bulbs” are confusing. From the diagram below…do we think wire r/bl is ve+? Could polarity swap about?


Rest of the manual attached if some one is really bored. Not the same engines I’ll be dealing with but same units

http://www.varen4u.nl/pdfs/volvo/TAMD61A-72J-A_WM_Wiringdiagram.pdfView attachment 128841
Click to expand...
Googler, note that the KAD44 EDC manual has the actual diagrams for your engines.
 
kashurst said:
Yes, LEDs require a minimum voltage to operate then a max current. If you measure the voltage across the existing bulbs, subtract the LED voltage (different colour LEDS have different voltages) then divide that value by the current you want through the LED will give you the required resistance. If you need any more help send me a PM with which leds you are interested in.
Click to expand...
Is that necessary for halo switches with built-in LED illumination (he'll be replacing existing illuminated switches)?
 
Thanks Pete. All change on that front. The one I have is a big moulded box behind so I’m not too keen to try and tear it apart. I think I can however use the newer modern unit as my set up is 2 x 8 pin. I’m a few months off looking at it again…be helpful if I had engines in the boat when doing so ??
 
Mr Googler said:
Thanks Pete. All change on that front. The one I have is a big moulded box behind so I’m not too keen to try and tear it apart. I think I can however use the newer modern unit as my set up is 2 x 8 pin. I’m a few months off looking at it again…be helpful if I had engines in the boat when doing so ??
Click to expand...
No worries.

I'd be grateful if you could still measure the length and width of the panel if you can be bothered?

Pete
 
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