Wiring Bottlescrews

[PeteCooper]

Is there a correct way to wire an open bodied bottlscrew and if there is please can somebody tell me how? I currently have split pins through the hole on the threaded portion, but I think that wiring would be more secure and neater. Thanks.

 

[starboard]

Pete....I use nylon cable ties, will not damage sails so therefore do not need tapeing which in its self heps the bottle screw as tape on the screw can retain salt and water and cause premeture failure.

I cut off the loose end with a hot knife as cutting with a knife or snips leaves a razor sharp edge!!

 

[Spyro]

Do you replace the cable ties regularly as they are quite prone to UV damage and become brittle. I believe black ones last longer.

 

[nordic_ranger]

Pete, some peeps use small split rings instead of split pins. It realy depends on the size of Bottle screw you are using. Soft metal split pins are OK if properly folded back on its self.
Jim.

 

[Athene V30]

I still use mousing wire. I bought a reel of it some years ago and haven't used it up yet!

I just do a figure of 8 through holes in screw in bit round centre bit and poke the sharp bit into the rigging screw so no tape.

 

[PeteCooper]

I quite like the idea of cable ties - presumably they go through the hole in the threaded rod and wrap round one side of the bottlescrew frame?

 

[Salty John]

With seizing wire you take a loop through the hole in the stud at one end twist it closed, then run the wire up to the other end and twist a loop through that stud. For extra security you can take a turn around the central cross piece on the rigging screw on your way from one stud to the other. Thus the two studs are tied to each other.
I've also used cotter pins - but you need long ones that can be bent back around the rigging screw body to prevent the body turning and to avoid sharp pointy ends sticking out. If you use cotter pins in the approved way, spreading the legs just 20 to 30 degrees, you end up with protruding sharp ends - they'll pierce the strongest tape eventually.
I've also used cotter rings, which work well.
I've never succeeded with cable ties because if they are small enough to go through the hole in the stud they break too easily. I use cable ties for lots of other things and the secret is to have a proper tensioning/cutting gun so you don't leave sharp ends protruding from the 'buckle'.
When taping, just go for a straight band over the area where the pin is, don't form a cup that can hold water and don't tape onto the threaded portion of the stud outside the body or you can trap water in the thread, theoretically.
All in my opinion, as usual.

 

[William_H]

As I see it if you just lock wire the 2 threaded parts to one another then conceivably the body can rotatee around the threaded parts so coming loose up to the point where the lockwire going through the parts won.t go into the threaded female section. So it can come very loose but not undone.
The wire needs to go through or around the body at some point as well as through the holes in the threaded ends to stop it turning.
good luck olewill

 

[doug748]

I intend to replace my split rings with small bolts and nylock nuts. Simple, secure, strong, reusable and will not snag.

 

[saltwater_gypsy]

Ah the myth of wiring bottlescrews! It must go back to the days of square-riggers.
If there was any reasonable force on the wire (which there isn't) it would shear in a jiffy. Doug748 is on the right track with bolts which might retain the screw if the whole thread strips. Another possibility is to use locknuts on the actual bottlescrew thread thread (and yes you can get left-hand threads.)
But wire! Knicker elastic went out some time ago as well.

 

[briangilbert]

Split pins are better than wire, nuts are better than split pins,one or two right hand nuts on the same end will stop any rotation and so not essential to find left/h nut and finally if knicker elastic went out so long ago what is holding mine up

 

[Refueler]

[ QUOTE ]
As I see it if you just lock wire the 2 threaded parts to one another then conceivably the body can rotatee around the threaded parts so coming loose up to the point where the lockwire going through the parts won.t go into the threaded female section. So it can come very loose but not undone.
The wire needs to go through or around the body at some point as well as through the holes in the threaded ends to stop it turning.
good luck olewill

[/ QUOTE ]

At last - correct.

But the original intention of the hole in the screw part is for a split pin to go through and be bent back round both 'arms' of the body at sides .. ends long enough to be bent back inside cavity to stop catching on ropes / sails etc. Simple, cheap and effective. This to be done for both separately.

Me - I use anything from pop-rivet pins from riveting jobs ... to bent nails !! /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif ... Methinks I may be joking there !