Wire Rope Hand Rail - Material choice

[LadyInBed]

If you do this, you can have the hole big enough to pass a threaded, swaged on stud through the stanchions

I agree, but if you are going to that much effort then another solution might be to weld in stainless rods or tube between the stanchions and forget the idea of using tensioned wire.

 

[rogerthebodger]

You could also weld loops onto each side of the stanchion and connect wire rope or dyneema between the welded loops

 

[Spirit (of Glenans)]

I, personally, have not had any problems with plastic coated wire over 17 years of ownership. Plain 1x19 wire would seem to be OK for your intermediate spans, though. Stainless steel would be more in keeping and would not require any maintenance although you would have to replace it every 10-12 years to satisfy the insurance company.

It might be more accurate to say that you have not perceived any problems, which is the point. Non-covered wire will immediately show you when it is becoming faulty whereas a plastic covered one could become unsafe without your knowledge.
Insurance companies raised a concern about this and may well have required it to be changed every ten years, along with standing rigging, but since they specified that guardwires should only be made with non-covered wire they no longer require scheduled replacement.

 

[Spirit (of Glenans)]

Who says the insurance company will be even vaguely interested in guard wires?

I did have to change my plastic covered ones for plain ones on a previous boat, at the behest of the insurer.

 

[rotrax]

On our Kiwi boat I left the top wire and changed the lowers - there were two - for 5mm heavily galvanised chain.

It is a home built steel yacht, a bit rufty tufty so it looks well.

Also it was far cheaper to buy the chain and shackles/bottle screws from Bunnings than to get the rigger to make up wires.

We had home made welded on pulpit, pushpit and stanchions with loops, not holes bored through. Good 'ole inch galvanised water pipe!

The galv chain is a perfect compliment.

Many club members tell us it looks really good.

We think so too.

 

[Spirit (of Glenans)]

I agree with Roger, drilling holes in the stanchions will weaken them, they need to have tubes welded in the holes to seal the stanchion, protect the wire and reinforce the stanchion.

If you do this, you can have the hole big enough to pass a threaded, swaged on stud through the stanchions.

In general the threaded stud will not be much bigger in diameter than the wire. When you have passed the wire through the holes you can screw a ring or turnbuckle on, for attaching the end to the boat. You'll probably want a forked fitting on one end and a turnbuckle with a fork at the other end.
Here is a link to an online supplier of made-to-measure guardwires ( no connection etc. :
Guard Wires - Jimmy Green Marine

 

[Spirit (of Glenans)]

I wouldn't use aluminium ferrules in a marine environment (I'm assuming salt water) they will weaken very quickly as the aluminium reacts with the SS steel. Copper ferrules are best.

There is the still the potential for galvanic corrosion between the copper and the s/s.

 

[Lightwave395]

We replaced all the coated 6mm stainless wire on/in the stanchions with dyneema. The stanchions already had the holes but we used the same turnbuckles and halyard knots at each end. You need to get the halyard knots 'right' as they stretch - maybe tighten is a better word - and they then go slack. So you need maximum adjustment still available in the turnbuckles when first installed.

From memory coated, stainless, wire is no longer allowed on racing yachts because some have failed at the swage (as mentioned). It might not happen to you - but dyneema is an easy alternative..

I'm looking at replacing my wire with Dyneema, did you use 6mm SK78 ?

 

[Ian_Edwards]

I replace all my SS wire guard wire with white 6mm SK78 dyneema 4 years ago.
They have been great, no chaff or wear where the go through the stanchions, and I can take them off and wash them when they get grubby.

 

[PaulRainbow]

In general the threaded stud will not be much bigger in diameter than the wire. When you have passed the wire through the holes you can screw a ring or turnbuckle on, for attaching the end to the boat. You'll probably want a forked fitting on one end and a turnbuckle with a fork at the other end.
Here is a link to an online supplier of made-to-measure guardwires ( no connection etc. :
Guard Wires - Jimmy Green Marine

That's exactly what i mean.

 

[PaulRainbow]

I agree, but if you are going to that much effort then another solution might be to weld in stainless rods or tube between the stanchions and forget the idea of using tensioned wire.

Yep, that's another option, one i'd personally favour. Might be costly though.

Looking at the existing rails, it's going to be awkward and ugly fitting wires to the first two sections at the bow, there looks to be a lot of curve there, i think that, at the very least, needs to be stainless tube.

 

[Spirit (of Glenans)]

That's exactly what i mean.

Sorry, Paul, my remarks were actually addressed to the OP, agreeing with with yours and expanding on them for the benefit of the OP.

 

[Neeves]

I'm looking at replacing my wire with Dyneema, did you use 6mm SK78 ?

Sorry LW395 for slow reply - yes. We have had no problems. I threaded some cable covers to sit in the holes through the stanchions, worrying about abrasion. Waste of time - the covers kept slipping (slippery dyneema) and there has been no abrasion. Halyard knots have worked, maybe too well. I had to re-knot some and dyneema is a devil to undo from a halyard knot. You need to knot, try for length tension (almost immediately) and if you do not have enough (or judge you are not going to have enough) adjustment from the turnbuckles - re-knot then. If you leave it too long you need to be very, very patient in trying to undo.

Jonathan

 

[Turbonic]

Again, all good suggestions. Will spend weekend measuring and photographing.

Cheers,
Nic.