ghostlymoron
Well-Known Member
My boat hasn't been launched this year and the engine hasn't run since February. I presume I need to introduce some antifreeze before we get a hard frost but how when its on a trailer?
Winterising Volvo MD1 engine
- Thread starter ghostlymoron
- Start date
VicS
Well-Known Member
Ensure the cooling system is drained ..... That may mean removing the cylinder block drain cock to be certain that the drain is not bunged up. No further action needed to protect from frost.
Only reason then to fill with antifreeze is to benefit from the corrosion inhibitors it contains .... but if its already stood all year its a bit late.
If desired make up a bucket full at 50%, transfer pump suction to the bucket and pump that lot through by running the engine....... but take the thermostat out first or most will bypass the engine. Fit a new pump impeller when recommissioning.
Topcat47
Well-Known Member
It really depends on how stable it is on the trailer. If you fill a bucket with antifreeze, disconnect the inlet hose from the hull fitting and put it in the bucket, you ought to be able to run the engine until antifreeze comes out of the exhaust. Then stop the engine. If you have an anti siphon device fitted the coolant will not run back into the bucket. Even if it does, any that remains in the engine will be fine. You will, of course, have to have a working SW pump on the engine. If you have already removed the impeller, you'll need to replace it before you start.
ghostlymoron
Well-Known Member
Does an MD1 have a cylinder block drain? I suppose it must have in which case no problem (except perhaps locating it, and opening it as it has probably not been drained for yonks).
VicS
Well-Known Member
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ghostlymoron
Well-Known Member
Thanks Vic. I did have a look at my copy of the manual so knew the position of the drain but the illustration was just a black blob. yours is much clearer. It looks like it's a hexagon headed stud so I'll give it a go.
VicS
Well-Known Member
I have links to two different manuals.
The one above on KTL is called the " Instruction book". Dylan scanned an original I think when he had the Mirror.
The other that turns up in various places eg http://www.motoren.ath.cx/Download.php?filename=/volvo/Volvo_MD1-D1-MD2-D2.pdf
ftp://vk.od.ua/34102-Volvo_MD1-D1-MD2-D2.pdf
and http://boatinfo.no/lib/volvo/manuals/md1-d1-md2-d2.html#/0
is the "Workshop manual"
Layout and I think contents are slightly different.
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Bilgediver
Well-Known Member
As well as filling at the water passages with antifreeze I would suggest also oiling the internals. IE bores and valve seats etc. I do this by
removing the air cleaner and giving about 5 squirts of engine oil onto the inlet valve then winding the engine over decompressed . This spreads the oil around and gives the polished surfaces a good coating. I also repeat for the first start in the spring to save the battery and get the donk fired up quickly.
removing the air cleaner and giving about 5 squirts of engine oil onto the inlet valve then winding the engine over decompressed . This spreads the oil around and gives the polished surfaces a good coating. I also repeat for the first start in the spring to save the battery and get the donk fired up quickly.
Bilgediver
Well-Known Member
As well as filling at the water passages with antifreeze I would suggest also oiling the internals. IE bores and valve seats etc. I do this by
removing the air cleaner and giving about 5 squirts of engine oil onto the inlet valve then winding the engine over decompressed . This spreads the oil around and gives the polished surfaces a good coating. I also repeat for the first start in the spring to save the battery and get the donk fired up quickly.
removing the air cleaner and giving about 5 squirts of engine oil onto the inlet valve then winding the engine over decompressed . This spreads the oil around and gives the polished surfaces a good coating. I also repeat for the first start in the spring to save the battery and get the donk fired up quickly.
ghostlymoron
Well-Known Member
I've removed the drain plug which was not quite as shown in your illustration. Its at 90deg to the one shown and is a hexagon headed brass plug (1/2" spanner fits, 13mm sloppy, 12mm won't go on). I had to poke a bit of wire up to get any flow but when done water gushed out (but not very much). Still I'm sure it's the drain and now empty. The manual illustration shows it with the Dynostart removed - it' a lot more difficult to get at with it in place. Fraction of a turn with fingertip.
