taormina
Well-Known Member
Hello fellow mobo,ers.. Question,
Is it best to leave tank empty over winter or full,
petrol 315 litres
thanks
Is it best to leave tank empty over winter or full,
petrol 315 litres
thanks
winterisation..fuel
- Thread starter taormina
- Start date
landlockedpirate
Well-Known Member
Leave petrol tanks as empty as possible, the petrol will degrade over time. (Most 4 strokes will still run on it, but why take the risk)
Major Catastrophe
Well-Known Member
Discussed here. (Click to read) I belong to the 'petrol is okay to leave in the tank' school. I have done for the last four years and the engine starts every spring first touch as does my lawn mower.
neale
Well-Known Member
Over the last 12 months I have experienced and witnessed lots of problems caused by stale fuel. For my own part I had trouble with the mower and a two stroke outboard. Both fuels were over a year old and neither would run, or run very poorly. Changed the fuel and both ran like a dream. Seen at least 2 four strokes this year with the same symptoms and same cure.
I don't know why this has happened recently, as I have had no problems in the past with fuel as old or in some cases even older.
I don't know why this has happened recently, as I have had no problems in the past with fuel as old or in some cases even older.
maxi77
Well-Known Member
Often a problem if the carb is not drained. I always stop a two stroke by cutting the fuel supply and have never had starting problems even after 6 months laid up.
Refueler
Well-Known Member
[ QUOTE ]
Hello fellow mobo,ers.. Question,
Is it best to leave tank empty over winter or full,
petrol 315 litres
thanks
[/ QUOTE ]
If you can close of tank with valves and reduce vapourisation of light ends - then best is to just leave what's in there. If you cant - then you have 2 options :
a) Empty all to cans you can close and store in cool dark place till next year. The cans should be as gas-tight as you can get them and also as full as possible. The lack of light and temp. reduces risk of anti-oxidants dropping out of the blend. The fullness will create a partial vacuum as temps go down. If can stays showing signs of vacuum - excellent. If not - then still ok - but use blended with new. If can is not capable of being near gas-tight - then oxygen will affect the blend and may cause gum to collect in bottom of can.
When putting fuel back to tank from the cans - best to decant of and leave last drop in bottom and discard.
Many will advise mix old with new fuel ... 50-50 is a good bet. I don't bother personally - but I have access to good storage ...
Of course check tank now for condensation that's collected while empty. That's a big reason so-called old fuel doesn't start engines - it's not the fuel - it's the few drops of water picked up by fuel intake.
b) Fill tank and then close of as best as possible. Start of new season drain of a little from bottom to ensure no heavy ends or water settled to be picked up and into engine.
To the poster about fuels and having trouble now and not before. ALL gasolines / diesels are now blended products. There are no true as you used to know fuels on the market as previous. Think of the smell of gasoline today ... sharp and cuts the nose / throat - that's the components in it to boost octane, original gasoline years ago was a sweet smell.
Main thing though is keep fuel out of light and keep it cool. If you can also reduce air movement across it's surface then even better.
Hello fellow mobo,ers.. Question,
Is it best to leave tank empty over winter or full,
petrol 315 litres
thanks
[/ QUOTE ]
If you can close of tank with valves and reduce vapourisation of light ends - then best is to just leave what's in there. If you cant - then you have 2 options :
a) Empty all to cans you can close and store in cool dark place till next year. The cans should be as gas-tight as you can get them and also as full as possible. The lack of light and temp. reduces risk of anti-oxidants dropping out of the blend. The fullness will create a partial vacuum as temps go down. If can stays showing signs of vacuum - excellent. If not - then still ok - but use blended with new. If can is not capable of being near gas-tight - then oxygen will affect the blend and may cause gum to collect in bottom of can.
When putting fuel back to tank from the cans - best to decant of and leave last drop in bottom and discard.
Many will advise mix old with new fuel ... 50-50 is a good bet. I don't bother personally - but I have access to good storage ...
Of course check tank now for condensation that's collected while empty. That's a big reason so-called old fuel doesn't start engines - it's not the fuel - it's the few drops of water picked up by fuel intake.
b) Fill tank and then close of as best as possible. Start of new season drain of a little from bottom to ensure no heavy ends or water settled to be picked up and into engine.
To the poster about fuels and having trouble now and not before. ALL gasolines / diesels are now blended products. There are no true as you used to know fuels on the market as previous. Think of the smell of gasoline today ... sharp and cuts the nose / throat - that's the components in it to boost octane, original gasoline years ago was a sweet smell.
Main thing though is keep fuel out of light and keep it cool. If you can also reduce air movement across it's surface then even better.
tinkicker0
Well-Known Member
Full tanks with a fuel stabiliser additive.
Starbrite do one called Surestart or something which is guaranteed to preserve the chemical balance of the fuel for over 12 months and deal with condensation.
My bikes were all left with full tanks over winter and my flying instructor always stated that tanks should be topped off before long periods of inactivity to prevent condensation collecting at the bottom of the fuel bladders.
My tank is going to be left full this winter with the stated additive. Also taking the carb / manifold off, draining it and bolting it back down over a plastic sheet to keep moisture out of the cyls.
Might be a little anal, but I can't afford a new engine.
Starbrite do one called Surestart or something which is guaranteed to preserve the chemical balance of the fuel for over 12 months and deal with condensation.
My bikes were all left with full tanks over winter and my flying instructor always stated that tanks should be topped off before long periods of inactivity to prevent condensation collecting at the bottom of the fuel bladders.
My tank is going to be left full this winter with the stated additive. Also taking the carb / manifold off, draining it and bolting it back down over a plastic sheet to keep moisture out of the cyls.
Might be a little anal, but I can't afford a new engine.
Cliveshep
Well-Known Member
Pettrol can go stale, I solve that problem by lobbing all my "not going to be used 'till next year now" petrol, 2-stroke for mower, strimmer, outboards etc into my wife's Laguna just before it is filled up. It gets diluted by the new fuel so smoking is not an issue (from the 2-stroke) and she gets some free mileage out of it.
The main craft runs on diesel, and I always top off the tank to prevent condensation issues. It is admittedly an old boat with a Thorneycroft thumper, max revs under load 2100, but the tank is never drained (or cleaned). I do change the fuel filter every spring (when I remember which I didn't this year) and there is always some water in it.
2 years ago admittedly it hadn't been changed for the preceding 2 years, engine stopped under way (embarassing) and when I took off the filter there was actually a small amount of fuel in it (the rest was water!). Can't think why it stopped!!
Like the other poster, I always turn off 2-stroke fuel cocks and let them run 'till they stop. That way they always start next time.
The main craft runs on diesel, and I always top off the tank to prevent condensation issues. It is admittedly an old boat with a Thorneycroft thumper, max revs under load 2100, but the tank is never drained (or cleaned). I do change the fuel filter every spring (when I remember which I didn't this year) and there is always some water in it.
2 years ago admittedly it hadn't been changed for the preceding 2 years, engine stopped under way (embarassing) and when I took off the filter there was actually a small amount of fuel in it (the rest was water!). Can't think why it stopped!!
Like the other poster, I always turn off 2-stroke fuel cocks and let them run 'till they stop. That way they always start next time.
Refueler
Well-Known Member
Fuel stabilisers are usually "loosely" based on Oxidation Stability Additives / Anti-Gum agents. These are already added to most gasolines. No harm in adding more - actual performance / effect ? No idea. Just thought you'd like to know.