wintering 2002volvoSD

newboater

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17 Jan 2002
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Laying up my boat for 6 months this year rather than for 6 weeks as usual when I dont bother to winterise just get the thing professionally serviced,so if I take out the impellor, drain the oil from the gearbox and sump and run some fresh water through the engine, will this suffice?
Grateful for any advice anyone can give.

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andy_wilson

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You weren't going to forget to refill the engine and gearbox with fresh oil were you?

Ensure diesel tank is full to brim and use water absorbing / bug busting solution if you go in for that sort of thing. I occasionally 1/2 fill the secondary diesel filter with the stuff before fitting it, putting the rest of the dose in the tank. This gives the injectors something to think about if they are getting a bit mucky. I use whatever my local MOT station uses to get cars through the test.

Fit new oil filter, and diesel filters and bleed.

Adapt the coolant intake to dip in a bucket with a hose running into it to allow running with fresh water and run engine to get it right up to temperature and coat internals with fresh oil. Towards the end add antifreeze and / or inhibiting oil to the cooling water to protect where water may lodge, and finally switch off.

Remove impellor and slacken alternator belt (and inspect / replace them), put impellor, cover plate, screws etc. in a bag with a new gasket and tie to drive belt.

Clean / change air filter and stuff oily rag in hole, ditto exhaust outlet.

Re-check oil levels / leaks.

Change engine anode(s) whilst you remember.

Attach label to keys reminding what you have to check before start up in the spring.

Clean water intake filter, check seacock, fittings, bonding and the (double) hose clamps.

Wipe what you can with an oily rag which means you are visually inspecting the externals, and spray with Duck Oil, the best stuff for the job. Don't forget the back of the control panel. Make sure you have checked all control cables for lock nuts etc, and cabling (especially the thich stuff) for chafe.

Clean, dry and remove batteries, or clean and leave in situ with provision for charging. A film of mucky, salty dampness on the surface is a sure way to hurry discharge.

That just about covers the engine and it's closest relatives.


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mldpt

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16 May 2001
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Up here in the north, we do all the above and also drain freshwater tanks pipes and open all sink taps to completly drain whole fresh water sistem making sure you drain the hot water cylinder and the water pump, one season I forgot this and it froze the presure switch on the pump, It is vital to run antifreeze through the raw water system as it is very difficult to drain all water from the gearbox oil cooler without removing it especially if you have fresh water in the system as we do here in Glasson Basin Marina, as it is in the canal system.
Mike

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