Winter Projects

[extravert]

Does the current usage reduce when a 12V halogen light dimmer is turned down, or is the extra power dissipated as heat in the rheostat widget? I've got them and have often wondered, but not got round to doing a test yet.

<hr width=100% size=1>One day, I hope to own a real boat.

 

[AlanPound]

Re: Inner forestays

"I've had a rigger look at this and I can fit the inner stay just below the existing one so that I won't need runners"

... I think that is the key - not too far down the mast, and runners will not be required...

... there is a useful set of information (plus the parts required, top and bottom) available here:

http://www.coatesmarine.demon.co.uk/r18-99.htm ...and here...
http://www.coatesmarine.demon.co.uk/r19-99.htm

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[tome]

On a rheostat type dimmer you will lose a fair amount of energy as dissipated heat so not a very efficient way of doing it. I bought 3 switched-mode 12V dimmers from a small company in Clevedon, CBC Design. With these the current will drop as you dim. I haven't fitted them yet but they look ok for about £15 each, see <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.cbcdesign.co.uk/dcdimmers.html>DC Dimmers</A>.

Regards
Tom

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[charles_reed]

If you do fit a removable forestay, do make sure you have adequate aft staying for the mast, pumping due to unfair loading is the surest method to get a fatigue failure mode in Al.
Unless your boat/rigging are designed for an internal stay you should fit twin running backstays to the job properly - talk to a good rigger.
I put my No3 genoa onto the furling gear - it's far superior to the storm jib which, on my boat is far to large for windward work in F8.

I've got 4 reefs on my main. For the lowest one I fitted a continuous reefing line led back to the cockpit using Harken Airlite 40 blocks and 8mm Kevlar (the latter was the last of a 250m roll I got off a dinghy sailmaker). It's proved itself very well this last season, tho' Harken UK were pretty useless I had lots of support and advice from Harken in the US (in fact there were no Airlite 40 cheek blocks in the UK so I got them direct from the States). Putting a traveller in appears OK and is OK in low wind speeds but is a different matter in 30+ knots.

Heating - having ditched the Eberspacher I've used an electric fan heater for the lat 9 years - do look at an all-fuel stove - Davys make a good one (in the UK and used by nearly all the workboats). "Nonsuch" had one and it makes her really cosy inside 10 minutes, burns anything and produced dry convection AND radiant heat. It's hard luck on boats downwind tho' when you light up.

PM me for any elucidation.

My projects:-
1. Electric winch - to do this I've got to put in a new bus bar and cabling to the forward battery
2. Fit a NASA Weatherman and a twin frequency Navtex to replace the old Navtex Pro (Navarea III are putting 3 times as much weather info on the new band)
3. Rebuild
/replace changeover valve for keel hydraulics, with assocaited HP hose
4. Fit a fabricated SS bowsprit with dolphin striker to act as the assymmetric boom and to double up as forward passarelle
5.Fit twin stern bustles to prolong the LWL by 0.9m and prevent the boat dragging 3 tonnes of water around with her, when she starts sailing fast.
6. Replace the boom gooseneck (the head of pin is working its way through the die-casting)
7. Re-reeve No 1 genoa halyard, (already moused,) remake all whipped eyes and cover with leather to prevent UV degradation.
8. New bronze stopcocks in the heads.
9. Liferaft serviced

Above in addion to normal annual refit chores.

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[charles_reed]

Genoas

Are, in fact, very inefficient windward sails.

I'd suggest a much more certain and cheaper way of improving windward performance on any fractional rig.
Fit a 100% blade jib or solent.

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[steffen]

Last year i put 5 layers of epoxy on the underwater hull. Last week came dry and discovered a lot (didnt count them but over 100) of small blisters (5-10mm) on the SB side. Nothing on the port side. Apparently there was still moisture in the hull that did not play up before but with the watertight epoxylayers form nice blisters.

Intend to remove gelcoat from areas where blisters are clustered with a router, measure acidity and moisture, remove acidity with soft (green) soap, dry out as far as time allows and repair with glass and epoxy.

Also the usual varnishing interior.

Got the mast down for inspection

Happy sailing, Steffen


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[tome]

Re: Genoas

It's a masthead rig with furling genoa. I don't want to set another sail in the foil but would prefer to have a better windward sail (foil or whatever) on hanks.

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[BarryH]

Buy a new boat. Bit short though for what I want, got any surefire fast money making schemes?

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[Twister_Ken]

The war\'s over!

> I dont think a Uboat in the deck<

<hr width=100% size=1><A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.writeforweb.com/twister1>Let's Twist Again</A>

 

[Ohdrat]

Re: 100% blade jib or solent..

What are they?

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[Chris_Robb]

Re: The war\'s over!

God - remember we are all dislexic mortals - can't spell - can't even see a misytpe when I make one. - However in Jimi's case a uboat in the deck whould be just up his street - to go with his other secret weapon - the hidden holding tank!

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[Twister_Ken]

Re: 100% blade jib or solent..

Genoa/jib with a high clew that comoes back to about the shrouds. Cut fairly flat. Fantastic sail in heavier winds and easy to tack because there very little winching to be done. Something like this.

<hr width=100% size=1><A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.writeforweb.com/twister1>Let's Twist Again</A>

 

[AlanPound]

Re: 100% blade jib or solent..

AFAIR the 'Solent' part often refers to a (fairly simple) self-tacking mechanism, that relies upon the jib being 100% or less...

Alan

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[gtmoore]

I've found in the past that (1) and (2) are normally mutually exclusive but from recent experience I can recommend <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.slimmingworld.co.uk>this.</A>

<hr width=100% size=1>Gavin

 

[Ohdrat]

Re: 100% blade jib or solent..

what's the 100% of? .. nice piccy so get the gist.. but really what do they mean by Blade?

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[Twister_Ken]

Re: 100% blade jib or solent..

Blade, like long and thin and flat. And 100% of the foretriangle I guess.

<hr width=100% size=1><A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.writeforweb.com/twister1>Let's Twist Again</A>

 

[charles_reed]

Not so..

A very high aspect foresail (ie from deck to top of forestay) with a foot ending in front of the mainmast.

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[charles_reed]

Of foretriangle area nm

nm

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[charles_reed]

Solent

As it's a deck-hugger you need a slot in the furler drum and your sheet tracks far farther forward and closer to the CL of the boat.

Mine goes up the headsail foil.

It improves tacking angle fantastically, with it I can tack through 65deg, with the genoa about 80deg.
It's not much use except to windward and in windspeeds above 12 knots, but I can carry it into the low 30s without overpowering the boat, just reefing the main.
With a much reduced heeling force and good slot formation it makes going to windward very much less wet and furious.
You'll see them on all the big racing boats.

It's very much an essential part of the wardrobe for a fractional rig boat, but according to Marchaj and Williams, not as successful on a MH rig which is so much more dependent on drive from its foretriangle.

Why not talk to a good racing sailmaker (I'd suggest Jeremy Robinson of Sobstad who's very blunt and straight with his answers)

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