Windlass Wiring - Checking for Safety.

It appears that I have a knack for posting awkward questions, I do apologise.
My wallet is about to be severely dented, have decided that the Quick 2000 windlass looks quite suitable for me with relation to its pull capability coupled with the price point.

Thanks for the advice, all components ordered including the cube fuse, I will post with a wrap up once done so that in some way this post benefits future requests on this subject.
 
They are a good winch. Ensure fixing points on the boat are man enough and then some! Also consider having a canvas cover made for it, like a shower cap to keep the driving elements off it when not in use.

Ref cube fuse, they’re ok. Not my favourite and if I was using one, I’d personally keep a few spare or maybe even safely cable tie one near where they are being used so you have a spare at hand.


It appears that I have a knack for posting awkward questions, I do apologise.
My wallet is about to be severely dented, have decided that the Quick 2000 windlass looks quite suitable for me with relation to its pull capability coupled with the price point.

Thanks for the advice, all components ordered including the cube fuse, I will post with a wrap up once done so that in some way this post benefits future requests on this subject.
 
Ref cube fuse, they’re ok. Not my favourite and if I was using one, I’d personally keep a few spare or maybe even safely cable tie one near where they are being used so you have a spare at hand.

As with all fuses, it pays to keep a spare onboard. But, as it's only protecting the cable from short circuit, it's unlikely he'll need to keep "a few".
 
As the fuse was a good meter from the protected positive bus bar by the time it had gone though a fuse holder, isolator, etc this is fine as the total round trip did not warrant the upgrade.

So it wasn't the 16 metre run you said it was? You'll appreciate that manufacturers' cable size recommendations are based primarily on voltage drop, not current carrying ability.
 
As the fuse was a good meter from the protected positive bus bar by the time it had gone though a fuse holder, isolator, etc this is fine as the total round trip did not warrant the upgrade. You guessed correctly, was it you visiting today? I must credit your Google skills :encouragement:

It doesn't matter if the 8m run includes fuse holders, busbars or isolators, it's still an 8m run.

Using 120mm cable wasn't an upgrade, it was the manufacturers spec'. You down rated it.

You made a big song and dance about fitting a 170a fuse at the battery. Your 160a fuse was specified because it not only has to protect the cable, it has to protect the bow thruster. In the OPs case he's doing that with his circuit breaker, suitably rated for the job of protecting the cable and windlass, same as your 160a fuse. He has chosen to add the second fuse at the battery, rather than have the "good meter" of totally unprotected cable that you have.
 
This is now outside the scope of this thread.

The installation manual suggested it was ok to down rate cable size for short runs to make connections easy. The feed for the meter of cable is from a fused sub bus bar that feeds windlass, hydraulic stabilisers and a black water pump so the cable is protected, as already mentioned (protected busbar).

Also, as a marine electrician (?) you’d know that BMET is a course run by the British Marine Federation regarding electrical works on small boats..... https://www.britishmarine.co.uk/Events-and-Courses/Training-Courses/BMET-Electrical



It doesn't matter if the 8m run includes fuse holders, busbars or isolators, it's still an 8m run.

Using 120mm cable wasn't an upgrade, it was the manufacturers spec'. You down rated it.

You made a big song and dance about fitting a 170a fuse at the battery. Your 160a fuse was specified because it not only has to protect the cable, it has to protect the bow thruster. In the OPs case he's doing that with his circuit breaker, suitably rated for the job of protecting the cable and windlass, same as your 160a fuse. He has chosen to add the second fuse at the battery, rather than have the "good meter" of totally unprotected cable that you have.
 
The installation manual suggested it was ok to down rate cable size for short runs to make connections easy.

But "only over a short distance" it says in bold print in the manual. This is, for example, usually intended to mean cable tails to the thruster, not the entire run.
 
This is now outside the scope of this thread.

The installation manual suggested it was ok to down rate cable size for short runs to make connections easy. The feed for the meter of cable is from a fused sub bus bar that feeds windlass, hydraulic stabilisers and a black water pump so the cable is protected, as already mentioned (protected busbar).

So the busbar and its supply cable is protected, as it should be, that protection can only be rated at the combined load rating of all the equipment that is connected to the busbar. To fully protect the thruster cable you'd still need to fit a fuse to the cable as it connects to the busbar.

Also, as a marine electrician (?) you’d know that BMET is a course run by the British Marine Federation regarding electrical works on small boats..... https://www.britishmarine.co.uk/Events-and-Courses/Training-Courses/BMET-Electrical

Not sure why you included a question mark there, other than being snide.

Didn't realise you meant that BMET, thought you meant a proper training program, not a 2 day course run by a trade organisation. It does say "The course is aimed at individuals with at least one year’s experience in boat electrics. ", i imagine you should be able to apply soon, you must have almost done a year in the trade now.
 
Thanks for this. In amongst the badinage was a lovely sentence which answered my search about a separate fuse coming from the busbar ( even tho’) the busbar is fused. So cheers
 
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