Windlass issue - lifting slowly then circuit breaker goes off

[Safeseas]

Hi all, appreciate some feedback, having some issues with my windlass; when launching it works fine , when lifting it works very slow then the circuit breaker goes off....do you think its a wiring/ circuit breaker issue or more of a servicing issue / fault of windlass itself? This occurs both on load and without load of chain and anchor. Voltages on batteries are good and also at circuit breaker...I was told most probably its the gearbox but wanted to have a second opinion.....Sorry can't post the video so I posted a pic....thanks and any feedback appreciated

 

[Neeves]

Hi all, appreciate some feedback, having some issues with my windlass; when launching it works fine , when lifting it works very slow then the circuit breaker goes off....do you think its a wiring/ circuit breaker issue or more of a servicing issue / fault of windlass itself? This occurs both on load and without load of chain and anchor. Voltages on batteries are good and also at circuit breaker...I was told most probably its the gearbox but wanted to have a second opinion.....Sorry can't post the video so I posted a pic....thanks and any feedback appreciated

Service the windlass. Windlass should be serviced annually. You may find there is no oil in the gearbox and by continuing to run the motor without oil it will chew the gears up. Check the shaft for grease, then clean and grease.

The biggest issues with windlass - they are not serviced (some never), the gearbox has no oil or the shaft is seized. Then the electrics of which loose cables are common (but you seem to be getting power to the windlass - so check the mechanics.

Jonathan

 

[Safeseas]

Thanks Jonathan, infact that's what I thought since it's getting enough electricity to launch I thought it shouldn't be an electrical issue and more of a mechanical one...will get it serviced and see from then on. Thanks

 

[Neeves]

You might be able to complete the servicing yourself. With no disrespect to windlass makers the device is very simple and servicing it is usually covered in the instruction manual. The manual usually describes the 'construction' and assembly and you only need to 'do' the instructions in reverse.

Post the model and someone (many) here will have the same model and there will be able to give you advice.

Jonathan

 

[pmagowan]

If it hasn’t been serviced in a while it will likely be a difficult job with seized bolts etc and getting someone in to do it might be a good idea. They are often difficult to get access to which is why they are not typically user serviced regularly. The actual process is easy if you had a nice clean windlass sitting on the kitchen table though! Did you check voltage at the windlass itself?

 

[Safeseas]

If it hasn’t been serviced in a while it will likely be a difficult job with seized bolts etc and getting someone in to do it might be a good idea. They are often difficult to get access to which is why they are not typically user serviced regularly. The actual process is easy if you had a nice clean windlass sitting on the kitchen table though! Did you check voltage at the windlass itself?

Hi pmagowan,

Thanks for your reply...I checked voltage at circuit breaker only which read fine, the cables ( red and black ) entering the windlass are not visible ( i.e the connection there cannot be seen ), guess taking it out and getting it repaired by someone more knowledgeable is the best way forward. After that I will ask how to service it at least annually which will be a good idea to prevent re-occurrence of fault/s. Thanks again

 

[Alex_Blackwood]

Thanks Jonathan, infact that's what I thought since it's getting enough electricity to launch I thought it shouldn't be an electrical issue and more of a mechanical one...will get it serviced and see from then on. Thanks

Don't disregard an electrical issue. It will require more power to heave in than pay out. A dodgy connection, loose, dirty, what ever, could be the cause. If it was purely mechanical, which it may be! You would expect it to be sluggish on pay out, no? To put it simply check everything!

 

[Safeseas]

Don't disregard an electrical issue. It will require more power to heave in than pay out. A dodgy connection, loose, dirty, what ever, could be the cause. If it was purely mechanical, which it may be! You would expect it to be sluggish on pay out, no? To put it simply check everything!

Hi thanks for reply, Can you give me your email address or WhatsApp number so I send you video which explains better the issue so you may better tell me from experience if it could be an electrical issue. thanks

 

[Safeseas]

Dear All, managed to open v berth area to reach solenoid/ control switch...when lowering the volt meter reads 12.3v and when lifting it read 5.6v...do you think the main issue is the control switch? Tnx for feedback

 

[Beneteau381]

Thanks Jonathan, infact that's what I thought since it's getting enough electricity to launch I thought it shouldn't be an electrical issue and more of a mechanical one...will get it serviced and see from then on. Thanks

Dear All, managed to open v berth area to reach solenoid/ control switch...when lowering the volt meter reads 12.3v and when lifting it read 5.6v...do you think the main issue is the control switch? Tnx for feedback

The low voltage means that either youve got a bad connection or the windlass is seizing causing a heavy voltage drop. On mine on my Beneteau, the magnets had come loose off the housing and were jamming against the rotor. They were glued on! in the golden days of Lucas they were held in place with screws.

 

[Stemar]

ISTM that high electrical resistance causing a big voltage drop is unlikely to cause the breaker to trip.

High electrical resistance -> low current, which isn't going to trip the breaker, whereas a high mechanical resistance -> high current draw -> tripped breaker

 

[Safeseas]

Thanks all...I pulled out the winlass..taking it for service...Will let you know feedback...thanks again

 

[noelex]

Dear All, managed to open v berth area to reach solenoid/ control switch...when lowering the volt meter reads 12.3v and when lifting it read 5.6v...do you think the main issue is the control switch? Tnx for feedback

If this is the output voltage it is likely the fault lies in the solenoid (although this is not the only possibility). The contact surfaces become pitted with time.

A simple test that is to disconnect the cables from the solenoid and connect them directly to the motor. You can use the circuit breaker or isolation switch to operate the windlass. If it runs normally you know the solenoid is faulty.

 

[Neeves]

Thanks all...I pulled out the winlass..taking it for service...Will let you know feedback...thanks again

If you have not already taken your windlass for service and are not in a hurry it would be worth your time to follow recommendations here. Windlass are really very simple, they are also (or can be) very useful - the more you can learn will allow you to rectify an issue in the future. Throwing money at a problem seldom allows you to increase your knowledge.

Solving your current issues by yourself will give you increased confidence to master other skills, engine servicing being an obvious example.

Jonathan

 

[pmagowan]

You have done the hardest bit

 

[Alex_Blackwood]

ISTM that high electrical resistance causing a big voltage drop is unlikely to cause the breaker to trip.

High electrical resistance -> low current, which isn't going to trip the breaker, whereas a high mechanical resistance -> high current draw -> tripped breaker

Whilst I agree with your mechanical resistance statement. The electrical one doesn't quite work like that in practice. If the motor sees a low voltage it will try and draw more current and trip the breaker. It would appear to me that the fault is electrical and lies in the "Raise circuit" If mechanical it would have an effect on the "Lower" operation as well and if an electrical fault in components common to both "Raise and Lower" similar would apply.

 

[Alex_Blackwood]

Hi thanks for reply, Can you give me your email address or WhatsApp number so I send you video which explains better the issue so you may better tell me from experience if it could be an electrical issue. thanks

If you want try a PM but I think all has been covered by the contributors on here. As I have said elsewhere I would concentrate on the electrical components of "Raise circuit" But don't dismiss anything. It is almost impossible to fault find on line all we can do is offer thoughts and possibilities, afraid you will have to do the hard work

 

[Safeseas]

Hi All, thanks for all the replies....I took it out and gave it to an engineer to see if he can fix the problem, this because when I accessed the control switch, my electrician told me so as to see if its an electrical fault I could switch the wires; the ones exiting into the windlass and if it is an electrical issue the chain should lift ( i.e. work the other way round ) however it did not and therefore that in the electrician's opinion means that the fault is in the gearbox/ motor itself thus a mechanical issue...therefore will see and revert and keep you posted. ( Re opening of the windlass itself, I am not that competent I am afraid therefore it would be better to leave it in the hands of someone more professional...hopefully its fixable.) Thanks all

 

[Neeves]

One of the biggest problems with windlass is that the are assembled with a mix of stainless bolts or studs and aluminium castings. The device is in the perfect environment to accelerate reaction between the aluminium and stainless and often the windlass is difficult to take apart. Why, when they are installed and after servicing individuals don't take measures, Duralac, to reduce the impact of corrosion is a mystery. Talk to the engineer who is servicing the windlass and ask him to use Duralac where appropriate and this will make disassembly easier for you when you service the windlass next. Also ask him where he uses the Duralac - and you will know where to focus your attention.

Its not a trivial matter, well using Duralc is easy, but many windlass are condemned simply because they cannot be taken apart.

Jonathan

 

[Safeseas]

Dear All, once again thanks for your worthy comments..I have happily solved this issue..well...to give some feedback, I took the windlass to a Mech Engineer who opened it up ( I wouldn't have managed as he told me it had some seized bolts which now have been re fitted with anti-seizure material for future re opening if necessary) ....the gearbox was in a very good condition... but the motor had alot of carbon, the communitator was abit worn, he managed to service it and made new grooves, cleaned it all up, re greased gearbox, closed it up and it worked fine, in both directions..the brushes were in a good condition too however I was suggested to see if I find a set for future if required ....well I fitted it back on and made some boat life seal beneath as well as in its grooves and Engineer told me to service it in 3 years time and grease the gypsy from time to time and wash with tap water after using it.... and it should be fine....hopefully all goes well