Windlass help needed

Majic

New Member
Joined
26 Oct 2016
Messages
17
Visit site
Hi all,
We have a Jeanneau fitted Lofrans Airon windlass. It has never given the slightest problem until today.
After a slight adjustment to our stern too mooring this morning, the windlass stopped responding except for a single click with each press of the remote.
I assumed it would be a solenoid problem, but measuring voltage at the windlass connections shows 12v when the control buttons are pressed.
I have tried connecting the supply direct to the windlass bypassing the solenoid, but still nothing. The shower of sparks when I accidentally caused a short indicates that there is plenty of amps!
There is no noise or vibration from the windlass and the engine has been on.
Any further suggestions to try?
I am currently sat in a thunderstorm in the Gulf of Volos, so would very much like to have my windlass back in action!

Thanks
Jon
S/Y Majic
 
I don't know this particular windlass, but these are some general thoughts.

Not the solenoid, and if there is absolutely no action probably not jammed or seized, or a sheered gear component. If you have power at the terminals, most likely it's not getting through, so it sounds like a motor problem. I'd think first of checking the internal connections and especially the brushes (worn or stuck).

Worst case is the motor has failed. You would have probably noticed if it had burnt out, but it may have become corroded if not adequately protected from sea-water. Corroded motors can fail quite suddenly - telltale signs are rust and pin-holes on the casing. . A new motor is perhaps a third the cost of a new windlass.

Hope you are being VERY cautious putting power straight onto the windlass, as the risk is high of starting a fire or an accident if it starts suddenly.
 
Last edited:
Check to see if it smells burnt if yes think rewind or replace.

If no 90%+ it will be stuck or worn brushes.

If the correct replacements are not to hand you can file down some csr starter motor brushes as a short term fix

i would also say that the brushes may be where the problem lies , some times they get stuck , you can first try tapping the motor , if still nothing then you need to get in there .
if as you say you taken power direct to the windlass then it wouldn't be your RC if you haven't then you need to check your RC
 
Thanks for the replies. I have managed to the windlass going by gently tapping with a hammer. So my guess is, it's the brushes. I'll try and remove and see if I can get some similar car starter motor brushes locally.
Thanks again
Jon
S/Y Majic
 
Thanks for the replies. I have managed to the windlass going by gently tapping with a hammer. So my guess is, it's the brushes. I'll try and remove and see if I can get some similar car starter motor brushes locally.
Thanks again
Jon
S/Y Majic

As said above, the chances are that the brushes/commutator are just dirty or one or two of the brushes are sticking in their holder.

A can of spray contact/carb/brake cleaner is very handy for spraying onto brushes and commutators from a distance with a minimum of dismantling being required. I now carry a can of this spray on the boat in readiness resulting from the first time I had the same windlass problem. :)

Richard
 
Ok, thanks.
Presumably to get at the brushes I'll need to remove the motor and disassemble the cover? The exploded diagram in the manual just shows the motor as a single item!
 
Motor may have round plastic caps on either side diametrically opposed. Or you may have to remove end cover (the one at the opposite end to the drive shaft) - brushes will be held usually with a clock type spring. Brush should have a flexible braided copper wire connection.

Video will help - Yes I know not a windlass motor but all brushed motors work the same.

 
Ok, thanks.
Presumably to get at the brushes I'll need to remove the motor and disassemble the cover? The exploded diagram in the manual just shows the motor as a single item!

It depends upon how it is located. On mine I just have to remove the end cover off the motor and the brushes are easily accessible using the cleaning spray. The windlass and motor assembly just stay where they are. It's a 10 minute job. :)

Richard
 
...A can of spray contact/carb/brake cleaner is very handy for spraying onto brushes and commutators from a distance with a minimum of dismantling being required...

Richard

Good advice there, use proper cleaning spray, don't be tempted to use WD40.
 
Hi, thought I'd post an update for posterity.

I decided to remove the motor rather than trying to sort in place. This was definitely the right decision and was pretty straight forward.
Once I had it on the cockpit table I removed the end cap. The brushes were visible but the insides were filled with black fibres:

https://photos.app.goo.gl/8bBfSWzHDyJ726na6

Not sure what they were, but I removed as much as I could.

There were 3 brushes, which looked to be in good condition and not over worn. I messed them as 12.95mm X 9.0mm X 24mm. SVB do a replacement set that look right, but I might see if I can pick up some auto spares when back in the UK.
One of the clock springs dropped off its pin, an absolute bggr to get back on so remembered to keep my finger holding them in place after that.
I lightly sanded the brushes and used contact spay before reassembly.

It works! But the black fibres are a concern. They were stringy and some were several inches in length.
Does anyone know what they might be?

I'm not sure if the pic will be visible. I seem to remember a sticky on how to attach pics?

Thanks

Jon
S/Y Majic
 
I've never seen an electric motor with a commutator/brush housing filled with anything like that. I don't see how it could have come off the brushes or the commutator but I suppose it might be some sort of insulting material which has shredded off the armature. However, if the motor is still working, I would do what you have done and clean it out before carrying on regardless. :)

Good job on getting it working.

Richard
 
I recently had problems with the motor in our autohelm linear drive. The brushes were only part of the problem as two of the magnets had become detached from the casing. This had caused some wear on the windings but I caught it before damage to the insulation was severe. Perhaps if left it would have left fibre like strands in the motor. I clamped the magnets back in place until the fresh coat of epoxy had cured. It has since got us back from Antigua to the Solent. (Still wondering why we came back though!)
 
Top