Windlass Cutting out !!

S

Sadlerfin

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Hayling Island
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Boat is a Bavaria 30 Cruiser 2006

The windlass is unreliable. Half the time it will work seamlessly and then it will just cut out work a but then cut out, A big problem when anchoring in a confined area and the boat has drifted before I can get the anchor down if it's cut out, it feels like a lose connection ??

I've purchased a new controller and rewired the male and female connector to the controller. Someone suggested the brushes in the unit but I would have thought it would just work or not if they were faulty.

Anyone any thoughts please,

Thank you
 
Sadlerfin said:
Boat is a Bavaria 30 Cruiser 2006

The windlass is unreliable. Half the time it will work seamlessly and then it will just cut out work a but then cut out, A big problem when anchoring in a confined area and the boat has drifted before I can get the anchor down if it's cut out, it feels like a lose connection ??

I've purchased a new controller and rewired the male and female connector to the controller. Someone suggested the brushes in the unit but I would have thought it would just work or not if they were faulty.

Anyone any thoughts please,

Thank you
Click to expand...
Is there a relay you can change?
 
Sadlerfin said:
Restarts Immediately if I keep pressing the remote (which is new the old one was the same)

How tight should the jockey (is that the right term?) wheel be
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I am sorry I don’t have enough experience to comment on gypsy wheel (I think that’s what you mean) tightness. Mine is tight without being crazy tight.
I think it would need someone to fault find on the boat .
 
What is the size of the motor on the windlass, how big is the chain (diameter of the wire of the links), how big or heavy is the anchor.

The device that grips the chain 'we' call the gypsy (I have no idea why) our relations in America, more logically, call it - a chain wheel. It does not matter how tight the clutch for the gypsy might be - the windlass should work. If the gypsy is 'loose' the windlass will 'work' simply not retrieve (it won't grip)

But

Are you saying that when you deploy the anchor that the windlass cuts out - so it cuts out when gravity (and Sir Isaac) are giving it (deployment) all the help it can. This to me suggests an electrical fault (and we have many resident electrical experts) but the only component you have not mentioned is the solenoid.

You can deploy the anchor more quickly by simply releasing the gypsy and letting the anchor free fall. It is quicker than power deploying. Because it is so fast you can drop the anchor almost exactly where you want (but you can also power deploy - if you guess how much leeway you will need to get the anchor where you want). However if you have a loose connection this will not help with retrieval as gravity does not work in reverse :)

You have not mentioned any issues on retrieval.

Have you checked the solenoid.

Have you also cleaned and tightened, really tight. up the connections, both the power cables and the smaller connectors for the switching (up and down), ie the wiring for your remote. Do you only have a remote and no 'master switch' a toggle switch or foot switches - or is operation only controlled by a remote. The heavy duty cables will have nuts at the motor and solenoid.

If the connections are loose - the windlass might work intermittently - no fault of the windlass (its thus not unreliable) - simply poorly maintained. If you rely on a remote - I'd be harsh - its a bodged installation.

Jonathan
 
Intermittent problems are always the most frustrating to diagnose. This is most likely to be an electrical problem.

A poor connection, defective controller/switch, defective solenoid, or defective motor brushes are the most likely candidates, roughly in that order. The good news is that all of these problems are all relatively cheap and easy to fix. The bad news is that it can be very frustrating and difficult to sort out where the problem lies.

As a first step, attach a multimeter to the windlass terminals to read voltage and note the reading while the windlass is engaged. When the fault occurs note the voltage.
High voltage= defective brushes or a mechanical problem with the windlass.
Low voltage = the fault lies elsewhere. From here you can do the same test downstream towards the power supply and this will identify where the fault lies.
 
I have no experience of this

If the chain is twisted inside the locker (it is hockled) then it will, might, jamb at the gypsy and the windlass will cut out.

In theory the chain cannot jamb in the locker as the only way into the locker is through the gypsy and if it passes through the gypsy it has to be 'unhockled'. That is unless the chain is removed from the locker and then tipped back in - unceremoniously - rather than fed in through the windlass.

To many unknowns - we are left to guess.

Give us more detail


In the meantime, follow the advice from NormanS :)

Jonathan
 
If a sharp tap on the windlass body fixes the problem for a while, then I would suspect sticking brushes. Dust (worn bits of the brushes) can get between the brush and its holder. Replacing the brushes should fix it though thorough cleaning can be enough if they aren't badly worn.
 
NormanS said:
I never use power to drop my anchor. The clue is in the word "drop".
Click to expand...

Often using the clutch to drop the anchor is better, but having the option to power out the anchor chain can be useful. Ideally both of these options should be available. If installed they should be working correctly.
 
Just a reflection.
On the purchase of my present boat the windlass was intermittant.
After spending time on volts/connections/ relays/switches etc, bit the bullet and removed and dismantled the windlass, fully expecting a corroded mess and the the dreadful prospect of serious money for new unit.
A problem solved.
The bushes were "hanging up" in the carriers.
A quick fettling of the brushes(removing gunge and solidified dust) and a spray of Servisol electric cleaner promptly got the windlass working again.
Bought some generic brushes from Ebay and with a minor mod to profile they fitted perfectly.
The problem was almost certainly lack of use. The windless has worked faultlessly for about 5 years now.
The genuine after market brushes were considerably more expensive.

The real grief is reuniting the heavy electric motor with the gypsy etc via a tiny weeny space not big enough to accomodate a mouse.
You really do need to aquire a friend if only to listen to the sobs of pain.
 
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#14 and #17 have probably identified the issue. I had similar, but not identical problems.

tap of a hammer a can of Wd 40 and an old tooth brush sorted things out.

My windlass was not working at all until the specialised treatment ..
 
oldgit said:
The problem was almost certainly lack of use. The windless has worked faultlessly for about 5 years now.
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Not finding fault here but the manual for my windlass suggests maintenance of certain parts every 3 months and every year that the motor should be serviced by a qualified technician (they would say that wouldn't they - substitute competent person/skipper/owner). I wonder how many people do that ? I don't although I do try!! It is regular maintenance that keeps things going - don't fit and forget.
 
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