Windex arrow broken

Refueler

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During the transport from house to launch site - the mast - sitting at an angle in the X frame at transom - tree branch broke the arrow .... luckily nothing else.

I had an arrow 3D printed for my other boat buy never fitted .... here next to broken original and my Hawker Hurricane 3D printed RC plane ..

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So mast down for lift out at Yacht Club tomorrow so I can fix leaking speed log. The decking I have for sitting out over the water - is prefect height to work on mast head .... just means turn boat so stern to pontoon.

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Remove old ... I cut the bottom part of the old to keep the new at correct height above the side arms ... drilled and slid on ... secured by collet.

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Its slightly smaller but will do ... I also added the reflective tape so I can see it at night by shining light.

You can also see my Coke Bottle lamp 'glass' ..... couldn't get new glass for the 'antique' anchor light - so small coke bottle does the job very nicely ,,,
 
I fabricated a wind pointer some years back from a bit of carbon fibre cloth impregnated with polyester resin. Like an aeroplane in side profile. I mounted a small brass tube near the balance point with cf cloth each side. A tail fin of course down the back and some lead on the nose to get balance. The whole sits on a piece of stainless steel 3mm rod with the metal part of chocolate block (electrical connector block) one above and one below the pointer. it has lasted for many years now. Yes I refit it before the boat goes on the road down to the water just have to be careful of trees. The beauty of home made is that you can make it as big as you like. ol'will
 
From what I've read PLA won't last, perhaps a year or so, although longer if painted; yet another use of a 3D printer for the DIY yottie.
 
Using your A-frame system do you need any additional sideways support or does the mast hang naturally on the centerline?

I have done similar on similar boat but either had a couple of people holding guy ropes or stood beside the mast holding it central as it goes up / down.

My plan for this winter is to create some removable chainplates that would line up with the mast pivot then use halyards as temporary shrouds to keep it lined up during raising/lowering.

The aim is to make it a safer operation and only need one helper.

PS I once had a mast head anchor light made from a meat paste bottle !
 
Using your A-frame system do you need any additional sideways support or does the mast hang naturally on the centerline?

I have no side guy-ropes or extra .... as long as boat doesn't start rolling or leaning to one side - she's fine. Because I use the main sheets with locking block ... I can stand at mast foot and keep a hand on it as it goes down. The X wood frame is slightly off centre due to the gas locker ... so a gentle nudge to get mast over that bit ..

I have done similar on similar boat but either had a couple of people holding guy ropes or stood beside the mast holding it central as it goes up / down.

When I first used it - guy helping me decided to change position and mast swung to side .... that was enough fore me to decide its a one-man operation !!

My plan for this winter is to create some removable chainplates that would line up with the mast pivot then use halyards as temporary shrouds to keep it lined up during raising/lowering.

The aim is to make it a safer operation and only need one helper.

Good if you get it right. Me ? So far all has gone fine. I may make a video of me doing it alone ...

PS I once had a mast head anchor light made from a meat paste bottle !

Why not - who can see what's up there ?
 
Graham ... if you extend the Cap Shroud chainplates - then all you do is slacken Cap Shrouds slightly (SAME both sides) and then the Cap Shrouds will be your guy's to stop mast swinging to side.
No need to extend any other stays / shrouds ...

Why slacken slightly ? Every boat I have lowered masts on - if the Caps are tensioned fully - they resist letting the mast pivot .. but two turns of bottle screw each side is just enough to let her pivot.
 
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