Winch slow when using wireless remote

davethedog

davethedog

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Hello all and installed a winchmax remote control (wireless) for my Anchor windlass and spliced the control workers for this directly to the foot switches that operate the Winch. All works but when using the wireless remote the windlass is slow yet when using the foot switches is normal speed.

Any ideas please?
 
That's a puzzler. The windlass speed can only be affected by the solenoid switching in the windlass high current circuit. I would have thought that the solenoid is either switching or it's not. If your wireless remote was producing a high speed on/off switching that might produce a slower operation by the windlass but I would have thought that you would hear the solenoid buzzing or rapidly clicking.

If the solenoid sounds exactly the same whichever control method is used to operate it, then I'm bereft of ideas. :confused:

Richard
 
tests:
examine speed and listen while:
press and hold foot switch, press remote control.
press and hold remote control, press foot switch.
if you have current monitoring for the winch circuit, have a look at that too.
 
davethedog said:
Hello all and installed a winchmax remote control (wireless) for my Anchor windlass and spliced the control workers for this directly to the foot switches that operate the Winch. All works but when using the wireless remote the windlass is slow yet when using the foot switches is normal speed.

Any ideas please?
Click to expand...

Most wireless controllers need connecting to the windlass control box, not the foot switches. Do you have a link to the remote?
 
I'm intrigued to know why the connection point of the wireless receiver seems to have taken on such importance? As long as the connections from the receiver to the solenoid are typical 5 - 10 amp cables onto the coil side of the windlass solenoid, why would it matter what other switching device is connected to the same cables? :confused:

Richard
 
RichardS said:
I'm intrigued to know why the connection point of the wireless receiver seems to have taken on such importance? As long as the connections from the receiver to the solenoid are typical 5 - 10 amp cables onto the coil side of the windlass solenoid, why would it matter what other switching device is connected to the same cables? :confused:

Richard
Click to expand...

It's a strange fault in that for the windlass to run, the solenoid in its controller has to close if enough voltage or not close if there isn't. As it works fine on the foot switches but not through the wireless unit, it would indicate a voltage drop somewhere, maybe not allowing the windlass relay to close properly.
 
RichardS said:
I'm intrigued to know why the connection point of the wireless receiver seems to have taken on such importance? As long as the connections from the receiver to the solenoid are typical 5 - 10 amp cables onto the coil side of the windlass solenoid, why would it matter what other switching device is connected to the same cables? :confused:

Richard
Click to expand...

cobolt said:
They're definitely "low current" foot-switches wired to a contactor aren't they?

Some older schools footswitches could be full-current types.
Click to expand...

I think cobolt is implying that there are winches out there that dont have a box of solenoids, but that the foot switches are wired directly to the motor. Proper 'ard switches!
 
A modern windlass, with a contactor (solenoid pack) could care less how the power to close the solenoids arrives at the controller, as long as there's enough of it. In installations where multiple switching devices are fitted it's unusual for all of them to go to the controller, they are typically "daisy chained".

The solenoids will either close or they won't, they will not half close and only let half of the current, or half of the voltage through, they are switches, not taps. The whole debate about where the wires are connected is a red Herring, IMO.

In the Olde days, some windlasses didn't have controllers and the foot switches were heavy duty affairs, directly switching the motor. If a remote was connected to the output of such switches the result would be as described in post #1. That assumes the remote has reasonably heavy wiring, not the thin stuff on the typical Ebay remotes, in which case it's unlikely the windlass would work at all, more likely the remote wiring would melt.

The question that has got lost in the connection debate is, what's the make and model of the windlass ?
 
That windlass was originally supplied with heavy-duty (read full current) switches.

That's likely your issue as there will be no solenoid/contactor in your circuitry...it's running so slow because the whole current the windlass draws is trying to be sucked up through the small wireless remote cables...resulting in massive voltage drop.

If that turns out to be the case, you'll need to add a contactor in circuit, and have both your foot-switches and remote turn the contactor on and off, rather than direct to the motor.

Careful in the meantime as you run risk of damage to the remote or the wiring....fire at worst if you hold the button for too long as the wiring will be vastly under-sized!!
 
cobolt said:
That windlass was originally supplied with heavy-duty (read full current) switches.
Click to expand...

Not always, it was sold with low current switches too, either single direction or reversible. I'm sure the only option with the heavy duty switch was single direction, hence my question regarding the number of switches.
 
Last edited:
cobolt said:
That windlass was originally supplied with heavy-duty (read full current) switches.

That's likely your issue as there will be no solenoid/contactor in your circuitry...it's running so slow because the whole current the windlass draws is trying to be sucked up through the small wireless remote cables...resulting in massive voltage drop.

If that turns out to be the case, you'll need to add a contactor in circuit, and have both your foot-switches and remote turn the contactor on and off, rather than direct to the motor.

Careful in the meantime as you run risk of damage to the remote or the wiring....fire at worst if you hold the button for too long as the wiring will be vastly under-sized!!
Click to expand...

Thanks and will disconnect the remote tomorrow then until I work out how to sort it....next question...how to sort it??
 
cobolt said:
If that turns out to be the case, you'll need to add a contactor in circuit, and have both your foot-switches and remote turn the contactor on and off, rather than direct to the motor.
Click to expand...

As above....should be easy to determine your situation...just trace the path of the footswitch wiring...if it goes to a solenoid/relay or some kind of "control box" then we're all barking up the wrong tree and need to re-think...but I think you'll find it goes direct to motor terminals.
 
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