Wichard inner forestay fitting

[NDG]

We are having some work done at the moment and I want to replace the highfield lever on the removable inner forestay with an adjustable Wichard fitting. I have used the highfield lever a lot and I find it difficult to fit in rising conditions and quite hard to get enough tension on it.

The forestay itself is 5mm. The rigger thinks that the Wichard 5554, which has an 8mm thread, might not be up to the job and he is wondering if we should fit the next size up, a 5556, with a 12mm thread. This would mean upgrading the inner forestay from 5mm to 6mm. I think the concern relates to the tendency of the fitting to bend to lateral forces when tacking/flogging rather than the strength per se.

the boat is 32ft (Contessa) and we use the inner forestay to carry a number 3, with the genoa rolled away, not just for storm sails, so it's used a lot.

I know this is a very specific question but does anyone else have a similar fitting who can give an opinion on what size would be most appropriate?

Thanks

 

[Ceirwan]

Forestays and inner forestays are generally fitted with articulated fittings at the bottom to as to prevent the sag of the stay putting unfair loads on the fitting.
If the fittings is designed for 5mm wire then it should be adequately strong.

Have you thought about a dyneema inner forestay? Googling it I've seen some great setups using 4-1 purchases using low friction rings lead back to a winch.

 

[Yngmar]

We're talking about this thing: http://marine.wichard.com/fiche-A|WICHARD|5554-0202010102000000-ME.html

There's a stated SWL (960 kg) and BL (2400 kg) on that page. A 5mm 1x19 stainless stay has a BL of 2200 kg.. Therefore the stay will part before the tensioner, so the tensioner is sufficiently sized.

Generally the Wichard kit is very sturdy (and shockingly expensive - I have one of these things on a 7mm inner forestay and looked up the price the other day - I really should padlock it to the deck).

The ratchet works well and the only risk is putting too much tension on it, rather than struggling to do it up enough (sight up your mast after tensioning). Also on mine there is a spring pin for holding the lever up during operation, which will bend and die if you ever pull the lever down with it locked. Still works fine though.

If tensioned sufficiently, lateral bend should be minimal and the snapshackle allows enough movement. You could add a double toggle at the top but it shouldn't be needed.

 

[Kelpie]

Not answring your question but I am in the market for a Highfield lever for my inner forestay so if you could bear me in mind when you come to upgrade...

(Currently just have a standard bottlescrew and have not even attempted to rig it in anything other than calm conditions)

 

[NDG]

Thanks for the replies, v helpful.

Having thought about things in the light of Yngmar's thoughts on breaking strain I think I am going to upgrade the stay to a 6mm and go for the larger fitting. I'm slightly concerned that the 5mm set up is slightly under-gunned overall, particularly for using the number 3 when its blowing a bit. A 6mm set up will be about 30% stronger overall.

 

[William_H]

I think that a high field lever would be far more convenient (quicker) to fit than the wichard in the link. The wichard seems to be intended to snap shackle onto the deck U bolt then tighten up by screwing (with the handle) what is effectively a bottle screw. I would far prefer a high field lever. I use one on my trailer sailer forestay with no problem. You adjust the relative lengths of the lever (leverage) to make it slack enough to enable the attachment to be made easily but as easy as possible to tighten (tension) it and lock it tight. I suspect your high field may have less leverage and a greater shortening span so is hard to tighten. You may be able to adjust the range by moving attachment point on the lever. (wish I could draw you a diagram) This will affect the overall tightened length so you may need a way to shorten the inner forestay if you don't have a bottle screw in the inner forestay. good luck olewill

 

[KRG]

I have the Wichard setup on my Contessa's inner stay, it was done by Alladins Cave rigging at Deacons. I can measure the screw and stay size if it helps. Very pleased with the ease of use, mine is fitted to the bulkhead at the rear of the anchor locker via a u bolt and stainless steel chain plate webbing. I can take some pictures if it helps?

 

[NDG]

BradC that would be very helpful if it's convenient for you. I'm trying to sort it out this week so don't worry if you won't be going to the boat before the weekend. However I'd be interested do see how you stow it when it's detached. If you happen to know which model and what size forestay you have, that would be great.

I'm definitely going to go with the Wichard option but I'm not sure which model to go with. There are 3 options, the 5554 which can only go with the 5mm forestay, a 5556 or (confusingly) a 5566 both of which take a 6mm forestay which I will need to upgrade. Glad to hear you're pleased with it.

William H - thanks for that. I've been using the highfield for years and I find it difficult to fit when the boat is pitching, which is always the case when you need to use it! I like the idea of a pelican hook which doesn't require such precision aiming as the clevis pin on the highfield lever does.

 

[KRG]

I'm not onboard until Friday pm but I may be able to find info from the invoice, alternately I'm sure David at Alladins would have the info.

I'm still working on the best stowage, currently I run it down inline with the forward lower stay to keep it away from the mast but not to interfere with tacking the genoa. I use a carabiner hook to turn the stay forwards at the forward chainplate. I have a metal ring attached via a lanyard to the next forward stanchion base. When adjusted correctly this enables me to easily snap the pelican fitting through the metal ring when the wichard fitting is at full length and then tighten up enough to prevent any whipping. I'm looking at changing the caribiner hook for a opening snatch block to ease the turn around a radius to prevent and kinking in the stay wire.

 

[Adamastor]

I'd suggest shortening the forestay with the fitting so it can be clipped at the base of the shrouds then getting either a length of SS chain or a purpose-made super-long toggle which could lie flat on the foredeck when not needed. The bit of chain could be kept close at hand until needed. Stays aren't usually very fond of being kinked...