Who could paint my boat?

[Wandering Star]

I recently purchased a Rival 32, the topsides are badly worn (as in scraped) and the gelcoat (red) is in a poor faded condition. It really cant’t be restored with a bit of buffing. So, as the rest of the boat is in good order, I think it’s worth repainting the topsides using a 2 pack polyurethane paint system. The age & value of the boat plus my bank balance, mean I can’t justify or afford to pay for a professional respray and wondered if anyone could recommend a small company or one man outfit who would repaint it by hand, outside in the boatyard where she currently stands? Although I will be looking for a good level of initial preparation (filling and fairing) I wouldn‘d expect the same professional ‘sprayed’ standard of finish - just a good one!

if I trusted myself with a power sander & paintbrush, I’d do it myself - but I don’t and (‘m not quite as fit as I once was either. The paint alone will cost a Kings ransom so I’d prefer to delegate the job to someone who knows what they’re doing, I would be available to help as necessary but not to take control. I was thinking maybe someone like a car bodywork finisher (is there such a job title?) or even a painter decorator? The boats in Poole, Dorset. Anyone have any recommendations or suggestions?

Thanks.

 

[Poecheng]

You would be surprised what increasing (decreasing?) grades of wet n dry paper can achieve with very faded coloured gelcoat - we saw this first hand on a super-chalky blue hull being prepared professionally at/by a top Hamble broker which was next to our previous boat when we bought her. The whole topsides were sanded down really quite hard at first which was a bit of an eye-opener.
By the time you get to very light grades of WND, you are at/close to cutting compounds and go from there. Worth a try on a small area (transom?) to see if it works as you sound like you have nothing to lose, particularly as your Rival will have a thick gelcoat.
If I may suggest something like 800 grade then working up to 2000 grade (if you can get it) then Farecla GRP (not the G3 and G7, which are not designed for gelcoat) compounding and then polishing (gloss) then, finally, GTecnic ceramic .
I realise I have done the usual of not actually answering your question

 

[Wandering Star]

You may not have answered my question, but that’s all very interesting and I’ll be giving your advice a lot of thought. It’s not a solution I’d considered to be honest. Thanks.

 

[Spirit (of Glenans)]

Prepare it yourself, I've never seen a professional painter with sandpaper in his hand!

 

[coopec]

Rolling and tipping is a two man job but is the preferred method of painting a boat these days.

I would use a two pot paint with a slow acting PART B

https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=Roll+and+tip

 

[Stemar]

If you don't trust yourself with a brush, at least do the prep yourself - that's the time-consuming (=expensive) bit.

I'd be incline to start by following Poecheng's advice and see what you've got. If, after a going over with 800 W&D, it clearly isn't going to give the result you want, go over with a random orbital sander & 320 grit. Then fill the dings, sand and fill, sand and fill. Then a coat of primer, which will show you the dings you missed, so sand and fill again. Finally, one last rub down and get the painter in.

Yes, it's hard work, and you'll vow never to do the job again, and you'll probably curse me for suggesting it, but you'll get a better finish than if a pro did it, because the pro simply can't charge enough to do more than good enough, unless you're an oligarch who's escaped the sanctions. I did it on my last boat and by 15 years later, it had accumulated enough dings that it really wanted to be done again, but was still presentable.

 

[coopec]

I recently purchased a Rival 32, the topsides are badly worn (as in scraped) and the gelcoat (red) is in a poor faded condition. It really cant’t be restored with a bit of buffing. So, as the rest of the boat is in good order, I think it’s worth repainting the topsides using a 2 pack polyurethane paint system. The age & value of the boat plus my bank balance, mean I can’t justify or afford to pay for a professional respray and wondered if anyone could recommend a small company or one man outfit who would repaint it by hand, outside in the boatyard where she currently stands? Although I will be looking for a good level of initial preparation (filling and fairing) I wouldn‘d expect the same professional ‘sprayed’ standard of finish - just a good one!

if I trusted myself with a power sander & paintbrush, I’d do it myself - but I don’t and (‘m not quite as fit as I once was either. The paint alone will cost a Kings ransom so I’d prefer to delegate the job to someone who knows what they’re doing, I would be available to help as necessary but not to take control. I was thinking maybe someone like a car bodywork finisher (is there such a job title?) or even a painter decorator? The boats in Poole, Dorset. Anyone have any recommendations or suggestions?

Thanks.

I doubt you'd be allowed tp spray paint a boat in the open these days because of possible over-spray and the paint is toxic.
I think even the professionals use "roll and tip" these days.

If you do it yourself (with a mate) make sure you use a slow Part B. In Australia we use "Fast" for spray painting, "Medium" R/T (cold weather) and "Slow" R/T (warmer weather)

 

[Tranona]

Hopefully the OP will post a photo of his boat - I have seen it and the suggestions so far are unlikely to work. It is way past any rejuvenation of the existing gel coat. It is also located in a position where spraying would not be practical.

 

[Minchsailor]

Remember that 2-paints are very sensitive to ambient conditions (humidity and temperature). It is exceedingly unlikely that you will be able to satisfy these when painting outside during the typical British weather.

 

[Stemar]

Remember that 2-paints are very sensitive to ambient conditions (humidity and temperature). It is exceedingly unlikely that you will be able to satisfy these when painting outside during the typical British weather.

Unless the composition has changed in the last 15 years or so, they aren't that sensitive. I did Jissel outside in April and it was fine. Yes, you want a warm, dry day, but they do happen.

 

[Wandering Star]

Hopefully the OP will post a photo of his boat - I have seen it and the suggestions so far are unlikely to work. It is way past any rejuvenation of the existing gel coat. It is also located in a position where spraying would not be practical.

Here you go! Have been dogsitting for a week followed by a weeks holiday since I saw you Stewart, so no progress with anything yet! Am now home & raring to go. Going to declutter the boat and setup power and water tomorrow, then start work in some shape or form on Friday! what I’m now considering, is repainting the whole transom in as close a colour match as I can get because it’s unrestorable and also because any colour mismatch between the transom & hull topsides will be largely obscured with the Windvane system I want to install.

Then (throw your hands up in horror) treat a large area of the hull topsides using similiar methods to those suggested by Poecheng. If the results are good, complete the whole hull topsides using the same method, followed by selective painting using 2 pack paint of areas which were unable to be restored! I know this isn’t ideal but if it works, it’s doable by me and more importantly, it’ll be much quicker & cheaper. If after doing the test area it’s obvious the topsides will take on an appearance of a patchwork quilt, then I’ll have to bite the bullet and accept the only solution is a full repaint.

I’d appreciate any advice, criticism, warnings, alternative suggestions etc etc - don’t worry about hurting my feelings, I just want to make her presentable and get sailing as easily and quickly as possible!

 

[andsarkit]

I am currently repainting the topsides with Jotun Hardtop AX. Much cheaper than International and I think I will get 5 or 6 coats out of 5 litres on a 26' boat (low freeboard). SML are very helpful and will mix any colour you want as long as you can find it on a regular colour chart. Mine was a Farrow and Ball colour.
I'm on my own, so just using a roller without tipping off and I will need to do some fine sanding and polishing at the end.
Preparation took several days using a Lidl orbital sander (3 year warranty if I wear it out) and mesh sanding disks which are far superior to sandpaper ones.
Two coats already done and if the good weather holds I will be done in 3 more days.
The problem employing a painter is that it only takes an hour to get the paint on but this will have to be done over several days.

 

[KevinV]

... treat a large area of the hull topsides using similiar methods to those suggested by Poecheng. If the results are good, complete the whole hull topsides using the same method, followed by selective painting using 2 pack paint of areas which were unable to be restored!

That sounds like more work than just biting the bullet and painting it properly - and even if you were to get colour and sheen to match now, it won't by the end of the season, and you can start all over again.
Beg, borrow, steal some decent machines, get some cold beers in and invite your mates over for a sanding party.

 

[Spirit (of Glenans)]

Here you go! Have been dogsitting for a week followed by a weeks holiday since I saw you Stewart, so no progress with anything yet! Am now home & raring to go. Going to declutter the boat and setup power and water tomorrow, then start work in some shape or form on Friday! what I’m now considering, is repainting the whole transom in as close a colour match as I can get because it’s unrestorable and also because any colour mismatch between the transom & hull topsides will be largely obscured with the Windvane system I want to install.

Then (throw your hands up in horror) treat a large area of the hull topsides using similiar methods to those suggested by Poecheng. If the results are good, complete the whole hull topsides using the same method, followed by selective painting using 2 pack paint of areas which were unable to be restored! I know this isn’t ideal but if it works, it’s doable by me and more importantly, it’ll be much quicker & cheaper. If after doing the test area it’s obvious the topsides will take on an appearance of a patchwork quilt, then I’ll have to bite the bullet and accept the only solution is a full repaint.

I’d appreciate any advice, criticism, warnings, alternative suggestions etc etc - don’t worry about hurting my feelings, I just want to make her presentable and get sailing as easily and quickly as possible!


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Painting in patches is just not going to work, IMHO. It will, as you say, look like a patchwork quilt and is just a waste of time, effort and materials
The advice to be found on this forum is that one full side of the boat should be painted in one go, without stopping and allowing the edge of the painted area to dry, such is the noticeable effect of any change in texture of the finish.

 

[slawosz]

I would personaly:
- not bother with painting for now. Only time you see paint, is when you approach the boat. But I understand that for many people look of the boat is very important. My boat looked bit dirty in places for last 2 seasons, mostly because I preferred to prioritize other jobs and go sailing
- how about 1 pack? International Toplac Plus looks very nice, it needs only roller to apply, is easy to touch up and has very good reputation. I recently painted a boat using it and looks very nice.

 

[northwind]

Mine was a Farrow and Ball colour.

I didn't know they did "Manky old boat" as a colour or was it "dolphin breath"? Or "seasick green"

 

[Spirit (of Glenans)]

I would personaly:
- not bother with painting for now. Only time you see paint, is when you approach the boat. But I understand that for many people look of the boat is very important. My boat looked bit dirty in places for last 2 seasons, mostly because I preferred to prioritize other jobs and go sailing
- how about 1 pack? International Toplac Plus looks very nice, it needs only roller to apply, is easy to touch up and has very good reputation. I recently painted a boat using it and looks very nice.

Sandtex 10-year Gloss does it for me.

 

[Rum_Pirate]

Preparation is all.

No matter how well the paint is applied or what type it is, if the preparation is not done properly and well, all the undulations, imperfections, scratches, dings, and there flaws etc that are not properly addressed in preparation will stand out on completion.

 

[slawosz]

Preparation is all.

No matter how well the paint is applied or what type it is, if the preparation is not done properly and well, all the undulations, imperfections, scratches, dings, and there flaws etc that are not properly addressed in preparation will stand out on completion.

Thats important. @Wandering Star not sure what are your circumstances, but if your yacht is ashore during winter and you don't leave far, the preparation is 'good' winter exercise. I was lucky with my small Achilles 24 that the previous owner was retired, old style garage owner and did paintjob in his barn with proper equipment. But owner of Sadler 25 that was in my yard had to spend lot of time on preparation, as his hull was full of dings etc. If you plan to launch this year, either you will have few intensive days or it will be expensive....

 

[LadyInBed]

A supplementary Q - what do you in the way of prep with hairline cracks / spidering in the gelcoat?