Whitelighter
Active member
Thanks. Looks like a good choice.
While im asking questions - best product to cut/polish faded gel coat
- Thread starter Whitelighter
- Start date
Thanks. Looks like a good choice.
Nick_H
Active member
I had a DAS6 Pro. It was OK but burnt out after 2-3 years, although it was used to do a few boats. It also slowed quite easily when some pressure was applied.
I've now invested in the Flex mentioned above. It's a lot more expensive, but feels really good quality, and has direct drive of the rotate function, so keeps spinning whatever.
Buy quality so you only buy it once would be my advice.
I've now invested in the Flex mentioned above. It's a lot more expensive, but feels really good quality, and has direct drive of the rotate function, so keeps spinning whatever.
Buy quality so you only buy it once would be my advice.
Stats007
Member
I've had mine for personal & commerical use for 5 years now alongside a rotary - no issues with its performance and only had to replace brushes once which come with it. You really shouldn't need to apply any real pressure - the weight of the machine is enough in most cases. The Flex makes no sense for someone doing this once or twice a year IMO.
gjgm
Active member
Well I didn't think much of the DA, unless you are doing a quick once over, and I used pads and 3M with that and was not impressed. I don't think I very ever seen any of the trade guys using one, they always use rotary.
All depends how faded the gel is, and IMHO I would not assume the condition and thickness of the gel on an older boat without seeing it. You don't need to look at many boats to see where the gel has been over polished, though more on coloured gels.
Let's be honest..the cost of the machine and gear is a bit immateriel compared to the number of hours this might take.I'd get a decent set up and know it will do the job. If that means the machine might outlast the boat..Oh well !!
We are talking about 10 miles of fuel consumption ?
All depends how faded the gel is, and IMHO I would not assume the condition and thickness of the gel on an older boat without seeing it. You don't need to look at many boats to see where the gel has been over polished, though more on coloured gels.
Let's be honest..the cost of the machine and gear is a bit immateriel compared to the number of hours this might take.I'd get a decent set up and know it will do the job. If that means the machine might outlast the boat..Oh well !!
We are talking about 10 miles of fuel consumption ?
scubaman
Well-known member
Another vote for 3M products. I also have their electric rotary polisher -> http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/car-p...ish/3m-electric-rotary-polisher/prod_768.html which feels like a quality product and does make the job faster.
There are loads of good youtube vids to help get going with a polisher. Key is not to use too much polish to clog the pad and do small patches at a time. Imho, it's worth being careful not to cut too much of the gelcoat away.
I use maybe half a bottle on the superstructure of a 43 footer, so a litre should be plenty for your boat.
There are loads of good youtube vids to help get going with a polisher. Key is not to use too much polish to clog the pad and do small patches at a time. Imho, it's worth being careful not to cut too much of the gelcoat away.
I use maybe half a bottle on the superstructure of a 43 footer, so a litre should be plenty for your boat.
David of Essex
New member
http://gtechniq.com/products/marine/ Have found them to a great product for cars, there marine products should be good
David
David
lionelz
Member
Been following this thread as I need to do my boat. I have some scratch he's on the blue goat which just stand out. Is there a product out there that is like you can get for cars where it is a coloured product/wax? Also can someone help me get my head around the process that if you have a scratch that you use abrasive to scratch it more and then polish with wax. I have watched loads of videos and understand that is what you do but my head just says it would be counter productive
Marine Reflections
Active member
3M's correctional range of products are pretty much industry standard.
Whitelighter - I'd get perhaps 3M's Imperial compound and the Finesse it final finish polish, you can use both of those by hand and they are a good choice to have in the toolbox that would cover most correctional scenarios.
Sorry I'm no wordsmith...
The holy grail of correcting any surface is to match a correctional 'system' to the surface you are looking to correct.
By 'system' I mean finding the right machine type that's right for you, the right pad and product combination and technique, again 3M offers some good marine videos and on-line how to demonstrations for rookies and pro's alike.
Things I wish I understood 30 years ago:
Gelcoats are not equal and vary in hardness an awful lot, think of the principle of using a diamond to cut a diamond.
If the grit of ABC's 1200 grit were made of cheese you'd get through quite a few sheets when correcting some scratches on gelcoat, but it's still 1200 grit right?
There are countless other variations of why one product may work well for one and not for someone else.
One compound used with a pure lambswool pad will work completely differently if used with a synthetic lambswool one, or further still with a foam pad and so on.
What type of machine that pad and product are used on also makes a huge difference.
Just to touch on the DA (dual action type of polishers)...
This means that the pad of the machine will rotate but will also oscillate at the same time.
To picture this, imagine marking the working face of the pad or sanding disc with a dot and then turning the machine on.
If you stop the rotation / spinning of the pad with your hand it will still oscillate and the dot will appear as a circle.
This is the main problem with dual actions, with pressure the rotation stops and oscillation is all that is used to work the surface.
Some are different to others and there is more torque on the rotation side of things meaning you can apply a little pressure, but not the amount required to correct oxidation on gelcoat efficiently.
This stopping of rotation under pressure has been spun into a good thing and claims of 'safe method' etc has put many minds at rest and in many cases it does, but not for heavy work.
Forced rotation from the likes of the Flex 3401 means that the benefits of a dual action remain even under pressure, ideal for reducing swirls and keeping the heat low on the working surface.
Is it worth spending the money on good tools? That's a personal choice, depending on if you can afford it, if it would make the task easier or provide better results.
I have the 32mm, 77mm and the 150mm Mirka da's with extraction machine
Festool Rotex 90 and the 150mm forced rotation da's with extraction machine
Flex 3401, the Rupes Bigfoot, Flex PE 14-2-150, Makita and many more.
Is it worth someone getting as many machines? Highly unlikely but each is used on a diffrent task determined by the surface or stage of correction.
You won't find a good mechanic that uses just an adjustable spanner, but it's ironic that a good mechanic can probably use just an adjustable spanner !
Whitelighter - I'd get perhaps 3M's Imperial compound and the Finesse it final finish polish, you can use both of those by hand and they are a good choice to have in the toolbox that would cover most correctional scenarios.
Sorry I'm no wordsmith...
The holy grail of correcting any surface is to match a correctional 'system' to the surface you are looking to correct.
By 'system' I mean finding the right machine type that's right for you, the right pad and product combination and technique, again 3M offers some good marine videos and on-line how to demonstrations for rookies and pro's alike.
Things I wish I understood 30 years ago:
Gelcoats are not equal and vary in hardness an awful lot, think of the principle of using a diamond to cut a diamond.
If the grit of ABC's 1200 grit were made of cheese you'd get through quite a few sheets when correcting some scratches on gelcoat, but it's still 1200 grit right?
There are countless other variations of why one product may work well for one and not for someone else.
One compound used with a pure lambswool pad will work completely differently if used with a synthetic lambswool one, or further still with a foam pad and so on.
What type of machine that pad and product are used on also makes a huge difference.
Just to touch on the DA (dual action type of polishers)...
This means that the pad of the machine will rotate but will also oscillate at the same time.
To picture this, imagine marking the working face of the pad or sanding disc with a dot and then turning the machine on.
If you stop the rotation / spinning of the pad with your hand it will still oscillate and the dot will appear as a circle.
This is the main problem with dual actions, with pressure the rotation stops and oscillation is all that is used to work the surface.
Some are different to others and there is more torque on the rotation side of things meaning you can apply a little pressure, but not the amount required to correct oxidation on gelcoat efficiently.
This stopping of rotation under pressure has been spun into a good thing and claims of 'safe method' etc has put many minds at rest and in many cases it does, but not for heavy work.
Forced rotation from the likes of the Flex 3401 means that the benefits of a dual action remain even under pressure, ideal for reducing swirls and keeping the heat low on the working surface.
Is it worth spending the money on good tools? That's a personal choice, depending on if you can afford it, if it would make the task easier or provide better results.
I have the 32mm, 77mm and the 150mm Mirka da's with extraction machine
Festool Rotex 90 and the 150mm forced rotation da's with extraction machine
Flex 3401, the Rupes Bigfoot, Flex PE 14-2-150, Makita and many more.
Is it worth someone getting as many machines? Highly unlikely but each is used on a diffrent task determined by the surface or stage of correction.
You won't find a good mechanic that uses just an adjustable spanner, but it's ironic that a good mechanic can probably use just an adjustable spanner !