Which type of paint for previously painted fibreglass surfaces inside the boat

Some expensive solutions for what could be done relatively cheaply.Whats wrong with a tin of white water based paint from Aldi.
 
Seriosuly? People advocate doing 'most of the interior' with bilge paint?
Yes it will stick, but it will look shit.

As long as the colour suits, it looks just fine. A nice gloss, and thick enough to conceal any flakiness in underlying layers. I used it for my Hunter 490 (grey inside the hull moulding, white inside the deck moulding) and I think it looks very nice.
 
Some expensive solutions for what could be done relatively cheaply.Whats wrong with a tin of white water based paint from Aldi.

The opacity and gloopiness of Danboline mean that it nicely covers imperfections in the paint below. It's a bit like obliterating emulsion, if you have ever used that.
 
Why would shiny white paint look shit? Danboline appears to have a more opaque colour than many others I have tried. You may well get by with a single coat.

Have you used it?
It's optimised for easily covering all sorts of stuff in the bilge. It's glossy, so it shows imperfections that a satin paint won't, but it's not made to flow to a nice finish.
It goes on thick and quick and looks like bilge paint. Because it is bilge paint.

What paint you use is not the main prblem if the old paint is flaky.
Preparation is the thing to spend time on, if you want a nice job.
Saving a few quid on paint or lashing something on to save putting two coats on is a bit short sighted.
 
Someone has already used cheap paint; The long term issue is whether the new topcoat can keep the old stuff stuck down.

I had this issue for years with my last boat with flakes of paint constantly clogging the bilges (she was a pretty wet boat, and even that was only in the eye of the beholder.)

Test for compatibility on a small area, don't just paint the lot in one go.

I find high gloss traditional paints best as they are easy to wipe clean and stay put pretty well. But the boat MUST be very well ventilated when you paint and take a break before driving home afterwards. For those hard to reach places using a wet/dry vac to draw fumes out worked/helped without blowing me up.

Thick layers of paint over any rough surfaces will make cleaning easier once it eventually hardens. I got that idea from the Trinity House lightships where they probably spent every day cleaning or painting something.

Dettol mould killer spray is also your friend (I've got a bottle onboard if you cannot id from google)

Flow coat is cheaper than good paint but more expensive than cheap paint, but if the surface is well enough prepared it should outlast paint and hence work out cheaper.
 
I need to paint the aft cabin, previous paint has gone flaky, so I will brush off with a wire brush then paint with white Danboline this weekend. will post back with the results.
 
I used some Jotun Pioner in the end: 5 litres for about £40 plus postage was very cost effective. Pretty stinky stuff, but the finish so far looks very good....
 
I used Zinsser primer on an old fishing boat last year (January 2017). I had some left over from some house decorating and was just looking at doing some cosmetic touching up on the fishing boat and I didn't even bother with a top coat. However, the area I painted (with undercoat) was and still is completely open to the environment and it still looks in perfect condition. I have friends who are professional painters who swear by Zinsser and I'm beginning to see why. I suspect Zinsser Bulls Eye is just as good. See this link
 
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