Which socket set?

Buy drills in 10's for the useful sizes. It would save a lot of space and weight. Do the sharpening in the comfort of your home.
I have over 60 years on the tools. I rarely buy drill bits as I keep them sharp. I have several kilos weight of top quality drill bits in my home workshop.

The bench grinder - a modest 'Parkside' job from Lidl - cost 20 quid. I haved saved that already by not buying drill bits.

The current boat held, as does john morris uk's, a very substantial and comprehensive toolkit. I must admit it was used more on the boats of others than our vessel. We hope to downsize soon. The toolkit and spare parts box will be a priority to have on board the smaller vessel.

There aint a Halfords mid Channel...........................
 
Have not read the whole thread but I bought Halfords professional set of sockets years ago for £99 at their sale price. Good quality tools that Halfords guarantee for life but IIRC its now nearer £200.a set.

Recently though you can buy similar from Aliexpress on line for stupid money. I have just ordered one with 216 pieces both 1/2 drive + 3/8 drive +1/4 drive for £27 !

Not sure of quality but nearly everything is produced in China now both quality tools and tools of questionable quality!

Unfortunately there is no one answer as while mm sockets will do for larger sizes for smaller the 13mm you might need a set of AF sockets or you risk burring the bolt heads (I still have a set of whitworth sockets and spanners but not needed on the Jeanneau)

I have also used my 3/4 drive set to remove the prop and the sterring wheel!

Today I have just sheared a hex drive attachment trying to remove a rusted in bolt on a "Garage Defender" security device (new doors fitted and it's in wrong position!) Hence I tend to use "impact" quality for anything tough these days.

Working on cars these days though you.need so much as in addition to sockets there are hex sockets, special sockets similar to the reverse of a torx bits plus torx sockets for larger sizes and 8 sided torx type sockets ( sorry don't know their name). Finally there are "security" bits to undo screws with projections.

The sad thing is however comprehensive your tool kit every job seems to necessitate another set of sockets/bits etc. Amazon with next day delivery is you friend - but not always the cheapest!

When working on cars these days "you tube" is also your friend as videos like"auto spares" ones list all the tools required.

"You Tube" also gives you many "cheats" eg replacing rear springs on Audi A6 Avant. Official way is completely lower the rear subframe, replace springs and on completion go for 4 wheel alignment check. Cheats way is jack car up and suspension arm compressing spring, put 3 luggage straps to secure spring in compressed state. Jack down suspension arm and remove old spring. Use spring compressor on new spring and secure with luggage straps. After postioning new spring cut luggage straps as only way to remove! I have done it as per the video but cack handed people might achieve it minus one or two fingers - be warned!

As I try to do ALL repairs on boat and 4 cars plus DIY on 2 houses money spent on tools is always a saving.

Eg recently replace all drive belts, water pump and idler wheels on Audi, plus rear springs, plus all discs and pads plus a service. Garage cost approx £4000. Tools I bought plus pattern (not Audi) parts , total cost some £600.

Fortunately being retired I have the time but finate money!! That's life
 
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I have over 60 years on the tools. I rarely buy drill bits as I keep them sharp. I have several kilos weight of top quality drill bits in my home workshop.

The bench grinder - a modest 'Parkside' job from Lidl - cost 20 quid. I haved saved that already by not buying drill bits.

The current boat held, as does john morris uk's, a very substantial and comprehensive toolkit. I must admit it was used more on the boats of others than our vessel. We hope to downsize soon. The toolkit and spare parts box will be a priority to have on board the smaller vessel.

There aint a Halfords mid Channel...........................
Do you sharpen by eye or hold drill bits in a jig


I have never had any success in sharpening drills.

Just ordered from Aliexpress a 100/50 set of titanium coated drill bits for total price of £4.06.

Poor advert but I think it's 100 drill bits in a display case and a further 50 in boxes. No idea of quality but even if 1 use and throw good value. Downside might be if brittle and break in hole. Will evaluate on arrival.
 
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I find sharping jigs a pain especially with small drills and it’s quicker just by hand on the rest of the wheel, mostly your just tipping off not regrinding
 
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I mostly sharpen drills by hand.

One of the first jobs I had when starting my apprenticeship was too to sharpen the set of drills for my fitter and if I did it wrong I would have to do it again until the whole box was sharp to his satification.
 
Or until all of the fluted section had been ground away..... 😅

If I did grind all the flutes away I would either buy the fitted some new drills or just go to the stores with the ground away drill and get a replacement.

Sharpening drills shouldnot reduce the drill length very much breaking the drill reduces the drill length quicker
 
Do you sharpen by eye or hold drill bits in a jig


I have never had any success in sharpening drills.

Just ordered from Aliexpress a 100/50 set of titanium coated drill bits for total price of £4.06.

Poor advert but I think it's 100 drill bits in a display case and a further 50 in boxes. No idea of quality but even if 1 use and throw good value. Downside might be if brittle and break in hole. Will evaluate on arrival.
By eye, unless using for threading or Helicoiling. Then, accuracy means the point must be centred. If not, they drill oversize.

A bloke showed me how in 1964 in Hazlemere. At a Motorbike shop called Minnear and Bruce. He did it by eye, using a treadle operated grindstone. I have been 'tickling up' my bits ever since......................

Pretty simple. I use the side of the wheel. As long as the trailing edge is lower than the leading edge they will work. It is a 'black art' if you do it by eye, experience soon shows you what works or not. Practice is the answer.
 
I have a TengTools combined 1/4", 3/8", 1/2" set for use in the garage and a TengTools 1/2" imperial/metric set for the boat
Also 3/4" (TengTools) and 1" drive sets, not sure on the sizes in them, not used since I sold the farm :) the ratchet on the 1" drive is about 3ft long, was handy on the farm machinery.
In the garage at home there is a 36" shifting key or "English sleutel" as they are called here
 
By eye, unless using for threading or Helicoiling. Then, accuracy means the point must be centred. If not, they drill oversize.

A bloke showed me how in 1964 in Hazlemere. At a Motorbike shop called Minnear and Bruce. He did it by eye, using a treadle operated grindstone. I have been 'tickling up' my bits ever since......................

Pretty simple. I use the side of the wheel. As long as the trailing edge is lower than the leading edge they will work. It is a 'black art' if you do it by eye, experience soon shows you what works or not. Practice is the answer.
That looks like something I'll try. Do you need to temper or case harden the bits after sharpening?
 
That looks like something I'll try. Do you need to temper or case harden the bits after sharpening?
No, the way I do it does not overheat them. If a blunt drill used by someone else has overheated, I'll grind 5mm off the end and then sharpen. Saved lots that way. HSS is pretty tolerant.

When drilling I try to use high pressure, slow speed. S/S is lubed with my special mix - TQF, old engine oil and paraffin. Seems to work well.
 
Have not read the whole thread but I bought Halfords professional set of sockets years ago for £99 at their sale price. Good quality tools that Halfords guarantee for life but IIRC its now nearer £200.a set.

Recently though you can buy similar from Aliexpress on line for stupid money. I have just ordered one with 216 pieces both 1/2 drive + 3/8 drive +1/4 drive for £27 !

Not sure of quality but nearly everything is produced in China now both quality tools and tools of questionable quality!

Unfortunately there is no one answer as while mm sockets will do for larger sizes for smaller the 13mm you might need a set of AF sockets or you risk burring the bolt heads (I still have a set of whitworth sockets and spanners but not needed on the Jeanneau)

I have also used my 3/4 drive set to remove the prop and the sterring wheel!

Today I have just sheared a hex drive attachment trying to remove a rusted in bolt on a "Garage Defender" security device (new doors fitted and it's in wrong position!) Hence I tend to use "impact" quality for anything tough these days.

Working on cars these days though you.need so much as in addition to sockets there are hex sockets, special sockets similar to the reverse of a torx bits plus torx sockets for larger sizes and 8 sided torx type sockets ( sorry don't know their name). Finally there are "security" bits to undo screws with projections.

The sad thing is however comprehensive your tool kit every job seems to necessitate another set of sockets/bits etc. Amazon with next day delivery is you friend - but not always the cheapest!

When working on cars these days "you tube" is also your friend as videos like"auto spares" ones list all the tools required.

"You Tube" also gives you many "cheats" eg replacing rear springs on Audi A6 Avant. Official way is completely lower the rear subframe, replace springs and on completion go for 4 wheel alignment check. Cheats way is jack car up and suspension arm compressing spring, put 3 luggage straps to secure spring in compressed state. Jack down suspension arm and remove old spring. Use spring compressor on new spring and secure with luggage straps. After postioning new spring cut luggage straps as only way to remove! I have done it as per the video but cack handed people might achieve it minus one or two fingers - be warned!

As I try to do ALL repairs on boat and 4 cars plus DIY on 2 houses money spent on tools is always a saving.

Eg recently replace all drive belts, water pump and idler wheels on Audi, plus rear springs, plus all discs and pads plus a service. Garage cost approx £4000. Tools I bought plus pattern (not Audi) parts , total cost some £600.

Fortunately being retired I have the time but finate money!! That's life
Hi could I have the link to the set you got from Aliexpress please?
 
Hi could I have the link to the set you got from Aliexpress please?
Sorry just use phone.

Look up 216 pieces socket set but beware of 46-216 socket set which is a 1/4 drive 46 price.

Initially when I looked it up it was £57 but did not complete purchase then I got price flashes from them for lower prices and bought one then another at an even lower price.

Still awaiting delivery of both though.

Previous bought similar for approx £50 some years ago in Lidl but set much heavier than Halfords and nt same quality.


At one time have 4 properties, to maintain, 4 cars and a boat in Nazare I had tool kits all over the places!!


Properties now down to 2, thankfully.
 
I have a set of surface drive sockets that drive hex nuts and bolts on the surface of the hexagon and not on the corners


surface%20drive%20-%20image.png


They are also useful for damages hexagons and hexagons of a slightly different side like I/2 " AF (12.7mm) to can use a 13 mm surface drive socket with a less risk of damaging the 1/2"A/F bolt head
I have a few surface drive sockets in my Taiwan collection, which are nice and sometimes useful, but I think its more important to avoid 12-point sockets in favour of six-points, whether they are surface drive or not.

I was back in the UK recently and used my old 12-point Hilka set, bought maybe 50 yrars ago. and was surprised how nasty they were.

I'd also say avoid 3/8 drive in favour of 1/2 inch. I have some, and very occaisionally 3/8 has a worthwhile clearance advantage but generally there is no reason to use them, given that they are significantly weaker.

Storage and handling - infrequently used sockets,(like those 3/8) make yourself a Mr T necklace stringing them on insulated electrical wire loops (doesnt get as filthy as cordage) with a bowline.

Ready use sets get one of those spring clip strips or use an IKEA magnetic knife rack, which can also store removed steel components in linear sequence of removal

Other tools: Square section drinking water bottles with three sides of the top cut with the fourth side as a lid hinge. No good for screwdrivers because the handles are too wide. Give them a drain hole and a flattened beercan in the bottom if leaving them long term in typhoon territory (I didn't) to cut down on rust remediation.

Rust remediation- rub with aluminium foil and a little sunflower oil
 
I have over 60 years on the tools. I rarely buy drill bits as I keep them sharp. I have several kilos weight of top quality drill bits in my home workshop.

The bench grinder - a modest 'Parkside' job from Lidl - cost 20 quid. I haved saved that already by not buying drill bits.

The current boat held, as does john morris uk's, a very substantial and comprehensive toolkit. I must admit it was used more on the boats of others than our vessel. We hope to downsize soon. The toolkit and spare parts box will be a priority to have on board the smaller vessel.

There aint a Halfords mid Channel...........................


That’s an impressive collection of drill bits and a testament to the value of keeping tools well-maintained rather than constantly replacing them. Sharpening bits not only saves money but also ensures you always have a sharp, reliable tool on hand. Having a well-equipped toolkit on board is definitely a must—especially when you’re out at sea where a quick trip to the store isn’t an option! What sharpening method do you prefer for your drill bits—bench grinder, specialized jig, or freehand?
 
That’s an impressive collection of drill bits and a testament to the value of keeping tools well-maintained rather than constantly replacing them. Sharpening bits not only saves money but also ensures you always have a sharp, reliable tool on hand. Having a well-equipped toolkit on board is definitely a must—especially when you’re out at sea where a quick trip to the store isn’t an option! What sharpening method do you prefer for your drill bits—bench grinder, specialized jig, or freehand?
Tried sharpening even bought a gadget that was driven by a drill but if I need to drill at least small sizes I buy a new bit for metal…….wood and concrete are ok
 
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