Which Racor Prefilters to buy

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penpal

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I want to replace my pre filters for new Racor, which will be easier to replace the filter elements without having to prime the engines overtime I change the filters. I am not sure on the flow rate, I have twin 130 volvos with a cruise speed of 18 and a max of 22kn.

I Aldo have to make a choice between two singles or a dual filter, which allows for you to use one filter if the other blocks up for both engines.

My main reason for the change is you can change the filter from the top without having to take the entire filter off, glass bowlbas well, which is the case with the Lucas ones I have at present.

Any thoughts on this?

sent from my iPad
 
This is probably "overkill" but the previous owner of my boat installed a pair of Racor 900's that are mounted together and have a valve that allows switching filters while underway if one is clogged...and there is a vacuum gauge between the filters as well. I have one pair per engine, and a pair of 500's for the generator.

I see it as a most viable feature to prevent having to go through a major fire drill of having to re-prime an engine...especially in a narrow channel or a rough seaway...

You may not need 900's....its possible that 500's may do the trick....check to see which filter will meet your needs on the gallons per hour scale.....
 
First off
With twin engines
I would have a pre filter for each engine.
Have a look at www.asapsupplies.co.uk for 'Racor' etc
However, if your current system is working ok and you just want to change purley for the ease of servicing etc
I would leave it as it is.
 
Volvo Penta also sell Racor filters re branded as VP and are more competetive, its worthwhile comparing prices.

Providing you religeously check the filter bowl before every trip and drain any water from your tank you should not need a bypass filter unless you have an underlying fuel bug problem.

Do you have a bug problem ?

Racor are very good and show any water in thee bowls allowing draining of the bowls, I just removed the Fleetguard ones from my boat and fitted Racor as the Fleetguard ones had a sealed steel cartridge and any crud and water was held in those and only when the cartridge was full did the crud go to the bowl. With Fleetguard you had to hacksaw the end off and open them out a messy and time consuming job. Racor you just lift and inspect.
 
Go for the Racor 500ma you will get a see through bowl with a flame guard, these are one of the easiest filters to change and I usually fit a drain tap aswell as they dont come with one. You can just remove top, fit new element and top up with diesel from a can them, refit top and start again with no need to bleed engine, this is very usefull when changing at sea .
The twin ones are good but are very expensive.
Filters for these are reasonably priced, as already said go to www.asap-supplies.com
 
penpal said:
I want to replace my pre filters for new Racor, which will be easier to replace the filter elements without having to prime the engines overtime I change the filters. I am not sure on the flow rate, I have twin 130 volvos with a cruise speed of 18 and a max of 22kn.

I Aldo have to make a choice between two singles or a dual filter, which allows for you to use one filter if the other blocks up for both engines.

My main reason for the change is you can change the filter from the top without having to take the entire filter off, glass bowlbas well, which is the case with the Lucas ones I have at present.

Any thoughts on this?

sent from my iPad
Click to expand...

I do not normally work with small engines like yours but rules are the same.

#1 CAV style filters have no place in a modern system. You are quite correct to consider changing to a more robust system.
#2 No such thing as overkill when it comes to fuel filteration, this is a safety issue.
#3 Racor filters are an OK solution, only because they are an accepted industry standard. However that is not that they are the best or most cost effective solution. Messy to change, bowls that go orange, expensive filters for what they are. Plus the advertised capacities are at best,optimistic.
#4 Having a Racor dual set up is certainly not the way forward for you. The dual was designed constant running applications where one filter is changed when indicated by restriction gauge without shutting motor down. Not a too late clogged solution.
#5 I accept that people have a love affair with Racors and they can easily be incorporporated into a properly engineered multi stage system. Or simply adopt a more cost effective multi stage system.

Take a look at this thread http://www.ybw.com/forums/showthread.php?t=242679

As well as subsequent comments by the original poster.
 
PaulGooch said:
I have a Racor 500 turbine on my single engine, 200HP boat, works well, element easy to change, no mess, no tools, no bleeding (with my engine).

http://www.asap-supplies.com/marine...e-filters/racor-turbine-500fg-seethru-bowl10m
Click to expand...

If you want to have a fit for purpose fuel system using a Racor 500MA on an engine which is genuinely 200 Hp, none of your Metric Hp 25C test fuel, pansy stuff which will never let you down regardless of the junk you pick up along the way, this is the only safe way to do it.

You put spin on coalesing filter in front of Racor as a rock gunk stopper and use 10 micron filter element in the Racor. Ignore the second gauge in the tee, this system was running a solar powered fuel polishing system.

I do not believe in anything on a knife edge when it comes to boats.
 
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On the subject of Racors this is a worthwhile watch out:-

Racor 500 Series Built 1997 and before may need a spacer if using the new Racor element 2010 S T or P This Filter can be easy identified by the recess at the bottom of the filter.

If not used the filter may go far down into the housing past the hole in the suction pipe and the filter will be bypassed. Racor Part # 15424
 
Hi Paul, whats the part number of the fleetguard filter, I have 1224 on my boat, and sometimes the baldwin equavalent with the drain tap on though I like the 1224 as it has a plastic see through bowl on the bottom.
 
Paul,

Just a little confused, let me do some mind reading:-

I think you may have transposed #'s FS1242 not 1224. Do I assume you have 1-14 filter head which originally used FF105c and you have upgraded to the Fleetguard FS1242B/Racor S2301 with the clear plastic bowl/drain at the bottom?

Further upgrade of FS1242B is the FS1015 less expensive if you re use existing plastic bowl or FS1015B complete with new bowl.
 
Latestarter1
Thanks for all the information regarding filtering fuel. I have a Volvo 260hp single engine. On my wish list of modifications to do is improving the fuel filtering system. Thanks again I will paste your info for a latter date.
David
 
David of Essex said:
Latestarter1
Thanks for all the information regarding filtering fuel. I have a Volvo 260hp single engine. On my wish list of modifications to do is improving the fuel filtering system. Thanks again I will paste your info for a latter date.
David
Click to expand...

David, sorry for delay in getting back to you.

If you can give indication of your current layout, I can give you the heads up on how to make your existing system more effective.

Paul
 
Paul this is a photo of filter taken out last year.
What does CAV stand for?. The boat is a Jeanneau Merry Fisher 925.Hope this helps.
David
 
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Both Racor and Separ elements look similar to this, however they have a little handle on the top for lifting out. However you would have mentioned if your filter was Racor like the one I posted earler in the thread. I need a little assistance here. When you purchase new filters what do you ask for?

CAV ie Lucas CAV now Delphi and certainly not one of these.
 
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