Which multimeter?

Pavalijo

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Just starting out on learning the dark art of12v electrics. Have bought the book and now want to purchase a multimeter.

On eBay prices start at a couple of quid and go upwards from there. The trouble with eBay is that you do get scammers who sell items at well above RRP and so I can't just think that if I spend £30 I will get a decent product - and I don't know whether said £30 will buy me something suitable for 12v work.

So - recommendations please?

Many thanks
Paul
 
Digital

AC
DC
Resistance
Continuity
Backlight
Rubber handframe

memory is nice but not necessary


I'd go for a Draper cheapy

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Draper-60792-Digital-Multimeter-Backlight/dp/B0001K9XKW

£14

excellent first meter, and has all the functions you will need.


If you want to check whether current is flowing in a circuit (quite useful if you want to see if a battery is discharging) then a meter with a clamp ammeter function is useful.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Pyle-PCMT20...&qid=1415347730&sr=1-3&keywords=clamp+ammeter

AS well as all the AC and DC functions. it has auto-off and a battery state indicator and a temperature probe (which has more uses than might be first apparent).

FWIW I have a Draper in the bosun's bag, and a KEW clamp ammeter in the workshop if needed.
 
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Good and cheap, available in Maplins starting @ about £14 and on the internet @ £10.
Any of the UniT range - I have a couple of UT30B - boat and home. Prefer digital (easier to read) but beware mistaking precision with accuracy.
Always a good idea to calibrate - get a Uni-tech to do it for you.

I find all the functions valuable, especially the circuit testing on a boat, so would advise against ruling that out.

Of course any tool is only as good as the wielder.
 
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I find a temperature probe useful as well - available on many models. I have always hankered after a clamp ammeter and I would be tempted to go for that one, even though it is more expensive.

Long test leads with croc clips also very useful for seeing voltage drop in cables.
 
Most boat electrics is simply checking continuity, voltage and resistance. I bought the chapest one Maplins had and it has been fine. I previously bought a Draper one but kept knocking the power switch on and draining the (expensive) camera battery it had.
 
Don't spend more than a tenner. I have one of these in yellow...

Which shows how expensive Maplin is, those are half the price on CPC, and pretty rubbish. http://cpc.farnell.com/_/in06962/digital-multimeter/dp/IN06962

The Draper mentioned above is good value: http://amzn.to/1lsT6Q5 although this one has a better interface: http://amzn.to/1Gwrr9N with colour coding and a larger display.
Both use a 9V battery.

Draper also do leads http://amzn.to/1EaiCyq but most will be suitable.
 
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I agree that a clamp meter would be useful but I think that only measures AC current. DC current is measured via the terminals.
You can get DC current clamps but sadly they don't read reliably down to milliamps which is a great shame. Or so it seemed when I looked into it.
BTW a good reason to buy a cheap multimeter is that when you blow up the 10A range you can just buy a new meter. The current fuse on a Fluke is £20!
 
voltage drop at battery terminals, and current are not the same.


DC clamp ammeters start at around £20. See above.

The best use is to check if there is any current flowing from the battery to e.g. sensor, engine room light, when - ostensibly - the elec system is switched off. I had recurrent domestic battery drain over weekends, and the KEW pinpointed that a 12 to 24 transformer was still wired in to the system from a difficult to see box under the cabin steps.
 
I have some expensive, professional electrical measuring gear at home. But I use cheap multimeters from Maplin on the boat, and for general use at home. They were just a fiver a piece, and are perfectly adequate for most jobs. The Maplin web site doesn't currently list that particular model, but they do appear from time to time.
 
I have some expensive, professional electrical measuring gear at home. But I use cheap multimeters from Maplin on the boat, and for general use at home. They were just a fiver a piece, and are perfectly adequate for most jobs. The Maplin web site doesn't currently list that particular model, but they do appear from time to time.

Same here. When you pay more money it is for features that you don't really need for electrical odd-jobbing. The battery on my Fluke ran out a year ago and I've been using one of the £5 yellow ones ever since.
 
I have several multimeters, including a Fluke.
I don't take the decent ones afloat unless I really need to.
The yellow ones for £5 or less are OK for most things.
 
Same here. When you pay more money it is for features that you don't really need for electrical odd-jobbing. The battery on my Fluke ran out a year ago and I've been using one of the £5 yellow ones ever since.

Indeed. For use on a boat, the cheapest you can get will be fine for almost all purposes. Much of the increase in price on better models is to improve accuracy and sensitivity or provide extra functions, which are simply not necessary for boat electrics. I've got a cheap £5 job, and it does everything I need, with more accuracy than I need. I have an OLD galvanometer type of multi-meter at home, which still works fine, but it's probably less accurate, despite originally costing the equivalent of a lot more money!
 
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