Which main anchor?

Re: Fisherman test??

I have a fisherman too. It was bought about ten years ago from Crusermart or similar. It weighs about 24 lbs and the welded bars separate so that it can fold flat. It is about a big as one would want to store on a 25 foot boat.

I have used it once in the ten years on the chalk off Sandwich when my 7 lb Fortress could not get a grip. It worked against the tide but there was not much wind to test it.

But contary to expectations it is no good in all weed types. I tested the anchor buried in light sand near a patch of eelgrass. I watched it as it moved into the eelgrass, the tubers and weed bunching up and lifting the stock until the fluke was completly out of the sand and pulling the weed along.
 
I apologize..

"I was comparing the Bugelanker with the Spade.
I was using two anchors, almost identical to the Spade,"

I apologize.. I didn't understand well...
But OK The SPADE and the Bûgel are as comparable than a sheep and a horse.. they are both mamiferes with four legs... :0)

They have about the same penetrating angle.. but the weight repartition at the tip of the anchor (penetrating pressure) is about 16% for the Bùgel, for 50% for the SPADE

The surface of the fluke of the Bûgel is FLAT (resistance coeficient 1.1) to be compared with the CONCAVE surface of the SPADE (resistance coeficient 1.7)

The shank of the Bügel is a fixed simple barre of steel.. the shank of the SPADE is dismantable and hollow...

A sheep and a horse... :0)

All anchoring parameters have been tested by the US magazine "Practical Sailor" : when the direction of pull was changed by 140* the only two anchors wich did realign themselves without moving or breaking free have been.. the Spade and the Super max with adjustable shank...
 
Personally I would never sell an anchor. What you get for a second hand is nowhere near its value (after all, it still works as before) and in case you lose an anchor / need more holding power in bad circumstances, at least you have a spare.
Of course, this depends on the weight of your boat. An extra anchor is a big chunk of metal if it's in your way.

Victor
 
Unfortunately there is no perfect anchor..

I have defined 7 criteria that a good anchor should meet:

1° - a good anchor should dig-in instantly

2° - a good anchor should dig-in on the same way, regardless of the sea bottom type

3° - When set, the anchor must give the maximum holding power, without dragging

4° - If the traction force exceeds the bottom holding characteristics, the anchor must give a constant dragging resistance, as high as possible and doesn't break free..

5 – the anchor must hold, regardless of the shift in direction of either the tide, the wind or the current..

6 – The anchor line doesn't have the possibility of becoming trapped in the anchor structures

7 – Finally, the anchor construction must be able to sustain very high loads..

They are other important features, but the 7 ones are the most important

- All flat (fluke) anchors (Danforth – Fortress – Britany – Fob… ) by design, are unstable anchors and under heavy loads have the tendency to corkscrew and to break free..

For setting (and resetting) the three best anchors are the Bruce, the Spade and the Bügel..

Contrary to common beliefs, the Fisherman anchor is not very efficient in weed and not better than some others in rocky bottoms. (see www.morganscloud.com)

When set, the Fortress has a good holding power/weight ratio.. but it is not always possible to set it.. (hard sand – weed – current.. ) but also in all recent tests, the aluminium version of the SPADE anchor was always far ahead the Fortress..
 
Re: Dutch sailing magazine \"Zeilen\"

I just learn today that the Dutch sailing magazine "Zeilen" has published in the January issue, a summary of all anchors tests done around the world..

The anchor wich arrive at the first place is .. (guess..)

And the conclusion of the journalist, at the question "Which main anchor to choose?" answers.. Any anchor you want.. as long as it is a SPADE.. :0)..

I'm trying to have the article translated from Dutch to English..
 
Le Spade, L\'Oceane . .

Ah M. Hylas!
Ca va?

We've got the Spade's cheaper frere, L'Oceane.
Has performed fautlessly so far. We keep our 15kg Bruce (a 'proper' one) in reserve.

Our only problem has been that the special bump on the curved shank meant it couldn't pull up completely over our bow roller (and under the forestay fitting) and seat comfortably, so we had to cut it off.

And the sharp point, which is great for digging in quickly, tends to scratch the bow gel coat as the anchor emerges from the water and waves about a bit.
 
Re: Le Spade, L\'Oceane . .

Hi Grehan…

Thanks for your report on the Océane anchor.

The "special bump" on the shank is designed to stop the anchor on the bow roller and to avoid that the sharp point can scratch the bow.. If you lift your anchor using the electric windlass, the anchor will stop on the "Bump".

On my own boat, I attach a short rope between the trip line hole and the anchor/chain connector . When the anchor stop on the "Bump", using this short rope, I can lift slightly the anchor until the "bump" pass the bow-roller and then stock the anchor on the bow-roller..
 
Re: Le Spade, L\'Oceane . .

Ah, but unfortunately my bow roller has a bar a short distance above it that's part of the pulpit/bow metalwork and to which is fixed the forestay. My old Bruce slid up onto the roller and through the gap a treat, and so does the Oceane . . now I've taken the bump off.
The bump kicked the anchor stock up just enough, as it came over the roller, to stop it travelling fully through and seating. I had to lash it, and then it tended to fall over sideways a bit. Enough to scratch topsides.

My current 'modification' works fine. But the anchor does wave around as it emerges from the water (that's inevitable I think) and just before the stock reaches the roller the sharp point waves close enough to scratch, if I'm not careful or if conditions are choppy. This is also partly because of the curve of the stock - when the anchor's a-dangling.

I must say, I still haven't worked out when I should be changing the anchor-to-cable fixing from one hole to the other. Seems like rather more bother than I care for!
. . expliquez s.v.p?

PS Don't have an electric windlass. Maybe one day.
PPS Thanks for the tip about the 'lifting strop' - I'll try that.
 
This might be of interest ot you......

Question posed during an online poll on Scuttlebut forum in January > What is your main anchor <

Anchor_1.gif


To view the rest of the results Click Here.
 
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