simonfraser
Well-Known Member
Or use superglue ?
SS bolt into a plastic OB gear lever
SS bolt into a plastic OB gear lever
Which loctite for SS into plastic ?
- Thread starter simonfraser
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PaulRainbow
Well-Known Member
I wouldn't use superglue. A drop of general purpose threadlock should be more than sufficient for the job. Loctite 243.
simonfraser
Well-Known Member
Some threads (groan) suggest loctite eats plastic. It certainly eats the plastic nose pads we use at work 
prof pat pending
Well-Known Member
Not sure that eats is the correct term, but many of them are not recommended on plastics, 243 being one of them.
prof pat pending
Well-Known Member
Are you looking for a permanent bond, or to be able to take it apart again at a later date?
ex-Gladys
Well-Known Member
Brunton anodes for 3 blade props are held by 3 nylon screws into the hub and locked by a dob of silicon
PaulRainbow
Well-Known Member
Certain plastics.
prof pat pending
Well-Known Member
Not according to the MSDS
So unless the OP has a spare to run a test on, I wouldn't recommend trying it
https://dgs.oce.com/PrinterSupport/ProCut_Customer/MSDS/LOCTITE_243_MSDS_EN.pdf
PaulRainbow
Well-Known Member
He does have a spare, the old one.
It's highly unlikely the gearchange will be made of thermoplastic and a drop of threadlock isn't going to hurt it.
simonfraser
Well-Known Member
Hm, indeed as the gear-lever sits inside the OB cowling and obviously gets hot I doubt it is thermoplastic, good point.
Could put the heat gun on the old one, that would soon tell me.
Do I want to take it apart again, unlikely.
Or silicon or sikkaflex I guess.
One of them rattled loose, perhaps I did not tighten it enough.
Could put the heat gun on the old one, that would soon tell me.
Do I want to take it apart again, unlikely.
Or silicon or sikkaflex I guess.
One of them rattled loose, perhaps I did not tighten it enough.
prof pat pending
Well-Known Member
Not really, there are thermoplastics with melting points up to 350C. Thermosets are a lot less common.
The key word in that MSDS is particularly rather than exclusively.
For that threadlock certain plastics are the exception to the rule.
The key word in that MSDS is particularly rather than exclusively.
For that threadlock certain plastics are the exception to the rule.
thinwater
Well-Known Member
I've used polyurethane caulks for this. They will cure without air and are not too strong.
Sikaflex 291 or 3M 4200 would be good choices. The problem with just saying "Sikaflex" is that there are about 50 products with that name, and not all are suitable.
Sikaflex 291 or 3M 4200 would be good choices. The problem with just saying "Sikaflex" is that there are about 50 products with that name, and not all are suitable.
simonfraser
Well-Known Member
Excellent, I have some 291 open.
prof pat pending
Well-Known Member
My exposure to outboards is extremely limited, but that type of sealant are only good for quite low operating temperatures. I would suggest that you check the tube before you use it 
simonfraser
Well-Known Member
tnx, -40 to +90 on the spec sheet
its not touching the engine block, water cooled, inside the cowling, cant see that getting over +90 for any length of time.
its not touching the engine block, water cooled, inside the cowling, cant see that getting over +90 for any length of time.
prof pat pending
Well-Known Member
Should be fine then
I tend to use this one if there is heat involved
https://www.dowcorning.com/applications/search/default.aspx?R=396EN
but as you have the silcaflex already :encouragement:
I tend to use this one if there is heat involved
https://www.dowcorning.com/applications/search/default.aspx?R=396EN
but as you have the silcaflex already :encouragement:
Neil_Y
Well-Known Member
We use epoxy as a thread lock and bedding holder. Good old araldite precision works well.
