Which Loctite for an Anchor shackle?

[pathfinderstu]

HHmmm! I don't use anything just make sure the galvanized shackle is screwed in tight with a big spanner. as I don't anchor that much corrosion and oxidisation seem to increase the torq. s/s shackles probably are more prone to slipping as they are more polished. I have in the past changed a shackle due to wear in the pin though.

 

[vyv_cox]

Loctite 242 comes in red packaging, either a 'toothpaste tube' or a sqeezy bottle. The product is blue. Yacht Legs supplied me the same stuff years ago for holding grub screws semi-permanently.

 

[John the kiwi]

I use a standard galvanised shackle which i tightened up firmly then cut off the tang-with-a-hole-in-it with a hacksaw (and filed smooth)so that there is nothing to catch on the bow roller.
Galvanising on the remainder of the shackle effectively protects the cut steel surface.
To stop the pin unscrewing i peened the thread end of the pin where it protruded slightly from the shackle housing. This deformed the exposed thread ends enough to ensure that they would never accidentally unscrew.
(Peening is the controlled application of force to round off the end of a solid rivet. To the uninitiated it looks the same as hitting something with a hammer!)

How do I get it off?

I dont want to. Except that after owning the boat two years i decided to get the anchor re-hot dipped. I cut the shackle off and then afterwards bought a new one and did the same thing. Galvanised shackles are not a large expense in the scheme of things.

Cheers

 

[Chris_Robb]

Using a wire seizing is all very well, but I have found anchoring in Greece, with stony bottoms, that the seizing gets ripped off, as does a black cable tie. The reason for this is that the new generation anchors (mines a Manson) tend to force the shank into the ground as they start to bed in - so ripping off the seizing. I now just check the anchor every time, and put a new cable tie on if the old looks dodgy. However - I think I will get a bottle of 242 locktite and do both in future.

 

[J Neeves]

Very observant - excepting the Fortress, which conversely does the opposite, the new gen anchors follow this observation. Almost simultaneous with the toe of the fluke starting to bury the shackle end of the shank also buries and the anchor maintains this attitude until it disappears. It might depend on the height of the roll bar but the last part of the anchor to disappear is the 'top' of the shank (the shackle end is well buried). The obvious other observation is that for all this to happen the anchor must pull down the chain - and the bigger the chain, swivel, shackle the more resistance to diving. But if you have moused the shackle and swivel then both need to be dragged into the seabed to allow the anchor to perform.

Jonathan

 

[Wooden Boat Fittings]

Wire. It's the only positive locking method which will absolutely prevent the pin unscrewing indavertently. (In the case of my boats, copper wire. I'll leave it to you f-g guys to work out the 'noble/non-noble' sequencing.).

Mike

 

[Chris_Robb]

Wire. It's the only positive locking method which will absolutely prevent the pin unscrewing indavertently. (In the case of my boats, copper wire. I'll leave it to you f-g guys to work out the 'noble/non-noble' sequencing.).

Mike

Mike - see my post no 24. Wire is absolutely no good at all for the Rocna/Manson type of anchor, especially if the bottom is stony. See J Neeves post above as well.

 

[TonyMS]

I use 271, which is red in a translucent bottle with a red label. Probably bought 10 years ago.

Brilliant. Undoing shackle is possible, but requires extra long Allen key. IMO, more secure long term than wire, and allows use of shackles without bits sticking out.

TonyMS

 

[Dabhand]

Loctite 222 is another alternative to those mentioned.

 

[PetiteFleur]

I used a stainless flush socket shackle with the end gently peened over. I tried to undo it and it requied a lot of force.

 

[OGITD]

The 'purple stuff' from Toolstation ..... it's what I use .....

 

[J Neeves]

We so far have the following options:

Loctite 242
Loctite 609
Loctite 222
Loctite 271

Volvo waterproof adhesive
purple stuff from Toolstation

I have no idea how they might compare, how easy any of them are to buy. We have had our 609 for so long I cannot remember why or where we bought it and certainly not how much it cost! Equally we have not conducted long term usage on the 609.

Jonathan

 

[Wooden Boat Fittings]

Mike - see my post no 24. Wire is absolutely no good at all for the Rocna/Manson type of anchor, especially if the bottom is stony. See J Neeves post above as well.

Ah well, you must remember that I'm a 'traditional wooden boatie', Chris -- my last anchors were a CQR bower and a fisherman's kedge, with a Danforth-type for Aileen Louisa.

Mike

 

[jdc]

We so far have the following options:

Loctite 242
Loctite 609
Loctite 222
Loctite 271

Volvo waterproof adhesive
purple stuff from Toolstation

I have no idea how they might compare, how easy any of them are to buy. We have had our 609 for so long I cannot remember why or where we bought it and certainly not how much it cost! Equally we have not conducted long term usage on the 609.

Jonathan

You are right that on this forum one gets lots of mutually exclusive answers! But the Loctite catalogue, http://www.loctite.co.uk/fullproduct-list-loctite-4995.htm is a reasonable place to start.

242 is general purpose medium strength, for threads 1/4" to 3/4" OD, where one wants to be able to to undo it without heating
271 is high strength , for threads up to 1" OD, where it's ok to have to apply heat (to ~200°C) to get apart.
222 is low strength for locking set-screws in aluminium or brass, up to 36mm dia
609 is not listed in the (UK) catalogue, maybe it's now obsolete?

Seems to me that Vyv called it correctly!

Edit: 242 and 271 available for ~£10 for 50ml from ebay in UK, Vibratite equivalents (red == 271, blue == 242) available for ~$10 AU from ebay in Australia.

 

[Chris_Robb]

You are right that on this forum one gets lots of mutually exclusive answers! But the Loctite catalogue, http://www.loctite.co.uk/fullproduct-list-loctite-4995.htm is a reasonable place to start.

242 is general purpose medium strength, for threads 1/4" to 3/4" OD, where one wants to be able to to undo it without heating
271 is high strength , for threads up to 1" OD, where it's ok to have to apply heat (to ~200°C) to get apart.
222 is low strength for locking set-screws in aluminium or brass, up to 36mm dia
609 is not listed in the (UK) catalogue, maybe it's now obsolete?

Seems to me that Vyv called it correctly!

Edit: 242 and 271 available for ~£10 for 50ml from ebay in UK, Vibratite equivalents (red == 271, blue == 242) available for ~$10 AU from ebay in Australia.

Thanks for that useful clarification!!!

 

[Chris_Robb]

Ah well, you must remember that I'm a 'traditional wooden boatie', Chris -- my last anchors were a CQR bower and a fisherman's kedge, with a Danforth-type for Aileen Louisa.

Mike

Mike - Glad someone is keeping the old boats going (and the old anchors:encouragement

 

[J Neeves]

My 609 is pretty old - I can hardly read the label.

But thanks for the homework!

Jonathan

 

[vyv_cox]

Ah well, you must remember that I'm a 'traditional wooden boatie', Chris -- my last anchors were a CQR bower and a fisherman's kedge, with a Danforth-type for Aileen Louisa.

Mike

Maybe it's just the mousing wire that is holding you place

 

[Wooden Boat Fittings]

Ah well, Vyv, as you know, Chris' sort of anchor (and situation) apart, a piece of copper locking wire really was all you needed. As someone said, it doesn't need to provide a lot of torque. A shackle-pin (should you still use the old-fashioned sort) can only unscrew so far before the tension in the locking wire stops it unscrewing any further. What's more, even heavy-gauge copper wire is easy to undo with your bare thumbs when you need to. I keep several feet of it for just this purpose (scrounged from the PMG many years ago, if you want to know. )

Mike

 

[G12]

Here, you can look through Loctite's spec sheets and choose your own poison

http://www.loctite.co.uk/loctite-4087.htm?primaryFacet=00000002IP

Ps, for me, it's always Monel wire. If you do it properly then it can be super tidy and you won't get your fingers bitten. Google aircraft lockwiring techniques if you need to find out more.