Which exterior paint for Iroko?

Rivers & creeks

Rivers & creeks

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We have some Iroko hand rails that we love when they're freshly woodskinned but they just take hours and hours each year getting right, sanding and woodskinning. We've decided to paint them, what brand of non-marine paint is best for Iroko and do we have to remove all the bloomin woodskin?

Thanks!
 
Colvic Watson said:
We have some Iroko hand rails that we love when they're freshly woodskinned but they just take hours and hours each year getting right, sanding and woodskinning. We've decided to paint them, what brand of non-marine paint is best for Iroko and do we have to remove all the bloomin woodskin?

Thanks!
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If you want maintenance free why not jusy leave it bare?

Www.solocoastalsailing.co.uk
 
There is something very wrong with your Woodskin. I have iroko trim that was last taken back to bare wood over 8 years ago and coated with Woodskin and is still fine with only one refresher in the meantime.

If you want to use a non marine coating then use one of the porous woodstains from the DIY sheds such as Sadolin, Dulux, Sikkens etc as used for external hardwood doors and window frames. Lasts as well as Sikkens but usually has a heavier tint than Woodskin.

There is no "best" paint, but any external gloss will cover the wood and last reasonably well - will just not look good.

Do not be tempted with oil or any of the preparations that claim to "soak in" - they all evaporate fairly quickly.
 
Epifanes Woodfinish (Gloss or Matt) is the product specifically invented for teak and iroko. Back to bare wood, 25% thinned for the first coat then 4 to 5 coats best recommended. There is a significant advantage in that once the first full coat you can apply within 72 hours (apply it to cure for 24 hours) it doesn't needed to be flatted (sanded). My handrails are unblemished and the cockpit lockers (which is a heavy wear area) is also lasting.
 
If you do decide to paint, preparation and the choice of primer is more critical than the finish chosen. While iroko is oily it is not quite as bad as teak but from recent experience I know that 5 coats of International Gold star varnish, applied over a week in increasing density will not last a season on iroko slats and that was after dismantling the grid to make sure every surface was fully covered.
My favourite primer for wood is Jotun's Vinyguard 88, you need to use it with their thinners, it is sold as a marine/metal primer aimed at oil rigs etc but up on the 80 year old pitch pine on my fascia boards and on the cast iron gutters it is performing better than anything else I have found, used under Homebase's own brand gloss. We are a few metres from the sea with salt almost permanently encrusting the windows.
 
Assuming you want paint, not varnish or a stain then maybe as a primer on the bare wood use an aluminium based wood primer. It is an oil based domestic paint for priming very resinous woods. Very commonly available. I have never used it on a yacht myself.
 
Last edited:
Quandary said:
...If you do decide to paint, preparation and the choice of primer is more critical than the finish chosen...
Click to expand...

I would echo that the amount of time you spend on the preparation is the key to a good end result. I usually expect to spend 80% of the time to complete a painting or varnishing job on the preparation stage.

If your Woodskin is failing after a year it could be due to poor preparation, wet wood or adverse conditions when applied; whatever you decide to use make sure the underlying wood is dry and properly prepared. I would strip down in July/August and let the wood fully dry before applying your chosen paint/varnish in August/September.
 
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