which boat ticks these boxes??

You need to look at the RYA website for STIX numbers, a basic measure of seaworthyness, all manufactures have at some time made some good stuff and some not so good stuff this includes BEN JEN BAV LED, MOODY and Westerley. Some of the old stuff is as "bad" as some of the new stuff so there is no way any generalisations can be made regarding manufacturer.

Performance boats tend to have low stix numbers, boats that could/should survive more extreem conditions higher numbers. STIX over 32 is the spec for CAt A, the highest number WAS 50 but there are few craft that go beyond that, a "good sea boat" will be over 40. Ex My JEN SO43 has a STIX of 43 my old SO 37 was 33 - both CAt A - which one would you cross an ocean in?

But as a suggestion consider the Victor 40, any of the fishers and the larger (42) catalinas. If your into submarining look at some of the swedish designs - they tend to go under waves rather then over them! as my neighbour will testify.

Angle of heal is down to the skipper, but some boats dont heal because the sailplan is too small and these get known as stiff boats.

My advice for what its worth - identify a few boats you like the look of and see if you can get a sail on them, buy the one YOU feel most comfortable with.
 
Multihull looks fabulous for cruising, but marina costs tend to be much higher, and there arent as many berths available...

So, if considering a lot of anchoring, or sitting on buoys, maybe the ideal.

We dont have a budget, so it's a bit difficult to get specific. Not necessarily a bad thing as, even with a budget of say, £200K, if you can get what you want for £30K or £50K.......

My budget was eventually £120K, but I tried to find what I wanted for anything from £50K upwards .... given my criteria it didnt happen but, with a compromise on the number of bunks, (losing 2), I could have got down to £80K - £90K.
 
Dear PhotoDoug - many thanks for your comments - I understand what you say about form stabililty (and many modern boats have lots of that - but I suppose I am looking to see if there is an older design that has both form stability AND a good ballast ratio AND can sail OK - I am tending to think that the warrior 40 is my best bet - many of the modern designs... well i just don't like the look of them that much!!!
thanks again
Giles
 
Want a ride in a Warrior 40?

WMerlin, I don't know where you are but if you are thinking about a Warrior 40 and want a ride let me know. Ours is in Lymington.
 
I used to sail a lot on a friends Voyager 40. Same hull as the Warrior but with a deck saloon. Masses of accomodation. My friend had twin engine option and a higher than standard rig so it sailed reasonably well although not good to windward. He also specified a settee in the saloon instead of second sterring position on the basis the upper position was very sheltered and it gave an extra settee in the saloon. Twin cockpits allowed non sailors to be away from the string and wind as well. Would have made an excellent liveaboard. Very simple, solid construction
 
That is not a straightforward answer. There is a walkway across the aft part of the saloon which has abt 6 ft 1 in headroom, and this provides the access into the boat and down into the hulls. The headroom in the sitting space is a lot less, but you dont stand there! I am a generously proportioned 6ft 1in and never found it to be a problem. The headroom in the hulls is nearer to 7ft. The bunks are 6ft 3in (and the double is 4ft 6in wide)

This is a plan of the boat
HiJudeinteriorlayout.jpg


This gives you an idea of the access, and the ability for the person on the helm to be able to talk to the people in the saloon.
HiJudeCockpit.jpg


At night, the hatch can be pulled shut, and light can be used in the saloon without blinding the helm.

and finally, this gives you a better feel for the actual saloon.

HIJudeSaloon.jpg


Hope that answers your question, plenty more pictures available!
 
Top