which battery monitor

.... But first I must get the biggest battery I can afford and find space for:D

Mmm... Do remember that, no matter how huge your battery is, you still have to put everything you take out back in again. Size just gives you a bigger overdraft limit. With my set-up - two 110 amp hour, I can easily cruise for 4 days (fridge off) if I then get a charge in a marina. (My engine charging can only do 12 - 15 amps flat out, which ain't much use.)
 
If you want cheap. O bought a backlit 12volt digital voltmeter for £1 from China with free postage. Mounted it in a little plastic box from Maplin, and bought a 3 way switch ( monitoring 3 banks) .

It is very good for £4 all up.
 
I worked as a railway guard (later driver) on BR in the late 70's early 80's and was confident that I knew what a shunt was and how to do it. How does moving large coal wagons fit into an electrical scenario ?

Happily following this thread as I would also like to monitor consumption more closely, currently using a Chinese made jobby (as previously mentioned) that does the job with a noticable absence of trickery for about £2.50 - tested to be accurate to within 0.2 amp.
 
Happily following this thread as I would also like to monitor consumption more closely, currently using a Chinese made jobby (as previously mentioned) that does the job with a noticable absence of trickery for about £2.50 - tested to be accurate to within 0.2 amp.

It's all very well knowing what current is being drawn from, or put into, your batteries, but what you really need to know is the amp-hours data. This needs something rather more sophisticated, which is why battery monitors cost more than your Chinese jobby.
 
not all batt monitors have a shunt so what does the shunt do?

In the context of measuring current flow ( amps) the shunt is a resistance, a very low low value resistance but nevertheless a resistance.

The current you are wanting to measure flows through the shunt and produces a small voltage across the shunt which is directly proportional to the current.

The instrument, battery monitor, ammeter or whatever measures this voltage and displays it as the value of the current flowing through the shunt.


the shunt can be placed conveniently in the existing wiring without re-routing it to an instrument in the panel.
Since very little current flows through the wiring between the shunt and the instrument it can be light and can be lengthy without affecting the readings etc

Now awaiting the pedants to pick holes in that!


There may be a better explanation on the tb-training website
 
Last edited:
not all batt monitors have a shunt so what does the shunt do?

the shunt introduces a low resistance into the circuit. A small voltage drop develops across the shunt (mVolts) which is directly proportional to the current running in the circuit. The batt monitor uses this voltage drop to indirectly measure the current.

the alternative is to place the monitor in circuit. but this can become impractical for mounting purposes - as you would need to run the heavy cable to the mounting position and back.

postedit - gosh, you got to be quick here today! essentially what VicS and Vara have said.
 
Last edited:
Don't think you will be disappointed, mounted mine on the engine housing looks the business, did you get it from cheaperchandlery.com? Mine took a couple of days to come, have also bought a few s/h bits from them as well, really cheap postage costs.
 
Don't think you will be disappointed, mounted mine on the engine housing looks the business, did you get it from cheaperchandlery.com? Mine took a couple of days to come, have also bought a few s/h bits from them as well, really cheap postage costs.

Cheaperchandlery.com as per your recommend.
 
I have recently installed a Nasa BM-2. It seems working perfectly OK so far.

It was pretty straightforward to install although I'm happy I got the BM-2 with M8 screws on the shunt as it looks far more robust than the BM-1.

One question though. It seems the maximum Ah is supposed to be 600.
In fact I have two 700A.h batteries... Thus in theory (only) 1400 A.h. (it's a sailing boat, although nothing pulls out much, I like the idea of having a respectable autonomy).

Has anyone identified any reason why in theory the modules are limited to 600A.h ? Although I can integrate the flow of current OK, it wont let me go above the real capacities of the batteries.
Any idea welcome. Thanks
 
Top