Where to insert the C-link in the chain?

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Kibo

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Considering I´ve got a very good quality c-link from a forumite, I´d like to extend my actual chain from 40 meters to 60 or so.

I was wondering where to connect the new chain with the c-link, if just next to the anchor, as that chain is normally lying on the seabed when anchored and not suffering from a lot of stress or tension, or at the other extreme of the chain, which will be in the chain locker most of the time, and only used when the conditions require more than 40 meters to be in the water.

What is your advice?
 
On the assumption that it will be the weakest link then I would put it at the boat end of the rode, as it will get the least use that way.
 
It should make no difference, assuming you have bought a Crosby link. The strength will be equivalent to that of the chain. The only factor you need to consider is that it can tend to corrode more rapidly than the chain, although not always, so you need to inspect it occasionally and maybe paint it.
 
I wouldn't put it anywhere! But if you must use it why not put it at the anchor end of the chain? That way, when it breaks you'll only lose the anchor and not the chain as well. :D
 
parsifal said:
I wouldn't put it anywhere! But if you must use it why not put it at the anchor end of the chain? That way, when it breaks you'll only lose the anchor and not the chain as well. :D
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Why do you suppose it is going to break? Before I did the destructive testing work shown on my website I had a chain that comprised three lengths connected with C-links that I then realised were very dodgy indeed, bought at chandleries from unknown manufacturers. Despite that they held the boat with perfect reliability in the usual conditions experienced on North Atlantic coasts during about five years of extensive cruising.

Crosby links are certificated for lifting and hoisting, putting them in a different league from the dodgy ones in most chandleries. They are as strong as a good chain and stronger than some of the ones offered for sale by some suppliers.
 
vyv_cox said:
Why do you suppose it is going to break? Before I did the destructive testing work shown on my website I had a chain that comprised three lengths connected with C-links that I then realised were very dodgy indeed, bought at chandleries from unknown manufacturers. Despite that they held the boat with perfect reliability in the usual conditions experienced on North Atlantic coasts during about five years of extensive cruising.

Crosby links are certificated for lifting and hoisting, putting them in a different league from the dodgy ones in most chandleries. They are as strong as a good chain and stronger than some of the ones offered for sale by some suppliers.
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+1!
 
vyv_cox said:
Why do you suppose it is going to break? Before I did the destructive testing work shown on my website I had a chain that comprised three lengths connected with C-links that I then realised were very dodgy indeed, bought at chandleries from unknown manufacturers. Despite that they held the boat with perfect reliability in the usual conditions experienced on North Atlantic coasts during about five years of extensive cruising.

Crosby links are certificated for lifting and hoisting, putting them in a different league from the dodgy ones in most chandleries. They are as strong as a good chain and stronger than some of the ones offered for sale by some suppliers.
Click to expand...

I'm not talking about Crosby links and I don't think the OP is.

The ordinary c-links sold by chandlers are not nearly as strong as the chain they join*. If you are going to weaken a chain rode by including a c-link then you might just as well buy a smaller size chain in the first place and save weight, and money.

*Why are they not as strong? Saw halfway through a chain link on two opposite sides and you can see why.
 
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From my experience I would put it where there is less need for it to articulate and to feed through the windlass gypsy.

I have no reason to doubt the strength of the Crosby link but it is not the same dimensions as a normal link on my 8mm calibrated chain and it would not articulate properly. Basically the link cross section was too great to fit easily within the link of the exiting and the new chain so it bound tight..
 
parsifal said:
I'm not talking about Crosby links and I don't think the OP is.
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Actually, I think he probably is.

parsifal said:
*Why are they not as strong? Saw halfway through a chain link on two opposite sides and you can see why.
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The design of a Crosby link is identical to that of any of the ones sold by chandleries. The difference is that the heat treatable steel of a Crosby link is perhaps twice as strong as the mild steel of a chain.

Just seen Wottayottie's post. There are countless standards for chain and unfortunately C-links are made to one that is not DIN766, so there is a slight dimensional difference. It usually takes a slight rub with a file or a small grinding wheel to relieve it.
 
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With reference to using smaller size chain if you are going to insert a "weak link" in a heavier chain, one of the reasons for using heavier chain is to get more length on the seabed to give a horizontal lead to the anchor shaft - so weight rather than breaking strain may be the advantage - there is probably a lengthy thread on the subject :-)
 
parsifal said:
I'm not talking about Crosby links and I don't think the OP is.

The ordinary c-links sold by chandlers are not nearly as strong as the chain they join*. If you are going to weaken a chain rode by including a c-link then you might just as well buy a smaller size chain in the first place and save weight, and money.

*Why are they not as strong? Saw halfway through a chain link on two opposite sides and you can see why.
Click to expand...

Sorry, but I am the OP and I am talking about Crosby links.

Thanks a lot to everybody for your answers.
 
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