Where to find an injector puller for Volvo Penta engine?

No harm. Just because the structure of the injector is quite simple. Not many parts can play around really. So I will do this experiment to change the spring. I have ordered the spring from the Volvo shop already, should deliver in two days.
 
The reason you get poor atomisation is due to wear on the nozzle and a weak spring .
if they are more than 10 years old or have done 1000 hours change the nozzle , test opening pressure , if it’s still low then change the spring .
Its pointless trying to do this yourself when a Bosch shop can guarantee them to work perfectly.
 
Thanks, everyone. I will keep all your advice in mind.

@volvopaul I assumed the injectors are as old as the engine which is 28 years old. Engine just around 990 hours. So yes, may bring them to the pro after the experiment.
 
Lucas Gan said:
Thanks, everyone. I will keep all your advice in mind.

@volvopaul I assumed the injectors are as old as the engine which is 28 years old. Engine just around 990 hours. So yes, may bring them to the pro after the experiment.
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Where you will get the inevitable ‘sucking of teeth’ and the ‘Who did this for you?’
 
Okay. Here is the update. I removed another port-side engine injector. So a total of 12 injectors are all out. The 6 injectors from the port engine are all no pop action but spray only. Then I double-check the other 6 from the starboard engine and end up that only 2 of them can continue doing pop action. Others are doing a few pop actions occasionally. So, in total only 2 workings okay out of 12. I should recondition all of them doesn't matter whether it working or not now.
 

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Lucas Gan said:
Okay. Here is the update. I removed another port-side engine injector. So a total of 12 injectors are all out. The 6 injectors from the port engine are all no pop action but spray only. Then I double-check the other 6 from the starboard engine and end up that only 2 of them can continue doing pop action. Others are doing a few pop actions occasionally. So, in total only 2 workings okay out of 12. I should recondition all of them doesn't matter whether it working or not now.
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Lucas Gan said:
Since I can't loosen the injector to clean inside. So I just simply clear outside first and done the pressure test. The first one shows the opening pressure is 3500 psi (24 mpa). Seems too low. I can't find the right pressure for TAMD61A but only found that TAMD63A opening pressure is 4206 psi. Are they the same?
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There is a lot more to it than just checking the pressure setting and as you might not notice what could be a major problem if re used It might be a good idea to send them to a specialist before you put an injector back with an incorrect spray pattern or
other faults that could result in engine damage. to engine damage.
 
Lucas Gan said:
Okay. Here is the update. I removed another port-side engine injector. So a total of 12 injectors are all out. The 6 injectors from the port engine are all no pop action but spray only. Then I double-check the other 6 from the starboard engine and end up that only 2 of them can continue doing pop action. Others are doing a few pop actions occasionally. So, in total only 2 workings okay out of 12. I should recondition all of them doesn't matter whether it working or not now.
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A trained injection specialist will know which can be serviced and reused and which need to be replaced. Some may be recovered by servicing. Not difficult if you are experienced and have the necessary tools and materials.
 
Lucas Gan said:
Ok. Just did a pressure test for 6 injectors, and 4 of them working properly. The other 2 can't make a pop action but only spray liquid diesel.

I manage to open up and cleaned the 2 no pop injectors. No difference after cleaning inside. Looks like the spring needs to replace to hold the pressure higher. Will give it a try.
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Even if you buy new springs they will probably not be an instant fix and you may still have to set them up so that the injector to breaks at the correct pressure. this will either be done using shims or more usually adjusting the injector spring bolt. I would suggest you take all to the service centre before you come back asking how to service the seats and needles in order to correct the spray characteristics. Something I had to learn to do many years ago and something that should be done in spotless sterile conditions. something you will know if you have visited an injection specialist. I had the benefit of taylor made sets of tools for the engine and generator injectors on the ships I sailed on which were provided by the fuel injection companies all items that are easily reproduced on an instrument lathe but you do need to know the needle and seat angles you are trying to achieve. Doing it your way is very much hit or miss.

I do hope that if your cylinder heads are fitted with copper injector sleeves that non of them moved when you yanked out the injectors.
 
Is it my injectors are much simple than most people thought? They are mechanical types. No adjustable screw or calibration part. Only one spring (item 5 in the picture), and washers(item 4 in the pictures) if needed to add one or a maximum of two. No myth at all. I don't feel dangerous to just replace a spring and remove/add washers. The 10 of my current injectors are already not working well, but the engine still working normally except a bit smokey due to unburned fuel I think. So, I feel safe experimenting. The engine is not likely to go worst. I will report here two days after I receive the spring.
 

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Bilgediver said:
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I do hope that if your cylinder heads are fitted with copper injector sleeves that non of them moved when you yanked out the injectors.
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my removal tool dimensions fit on the sleeves. Never say never but pretty confident that won’t happen.

I think that is the least of the issues here. He seems determined! Horse to water and all that ?
 
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