Where can I get 2 big end terminals from

For battery terminals I agree and a good lump of solder.

For this application I am very conscious of keeping weight to a minimum amount as I dont want to throw the balance off on the shaft.

Thats why I need a thin light large end terminal that will take a thin earth wire (similar to the wire plumbers bond copper pipes with).

The current earth wire has a crack in the plastic coating and this has allowed the copper ? wire to deteriorate.
 
Well, whoever wrote 8 bolts are needed to transmit 230hp goes to the back of the engineering class. The size of a bolt is determined by the forces it is subjected to (and corrosion, fatigue, allowances, etc) not the POWER it transmits. Power is a per-time-unit dimension, and bolts don't care about time. So ignore that, it's just bollox

As many have said, you most defintely do not have any 25mm or 1 inch diameter bolts/fasteners ANYWHERE on your boat. (We're talking the diameter of the bolt here, not the spanner size for the matching nut). If it was a 50m Feadship, you'd have a few though still not many. The shaft couplings are likely to have eight M12 or M14 bolts at most, and getting lugs with M12 holes is easy. You just need to measure next time you're on the boat.

If measuring is awkward you can convert from the spanner size. M10,12,14,16 bolts have spanners sizes 17,19,22,24mm respectively

Anyway, it sounds like you have fairly big bolts but thin wire. So what you need will be on this page, the CIR1 10 or CIR1 12 most likely. They're £1.50 per hundred so you can order several sizes http://www.cablecraft.co.uk/ProductGrp/000200070003

Incidentally, for hand crimp tools, I'd strongly recommend the ratcheting ones that meter the crimp, not the £10 cheapies, for all boat work. They're easier to use and do a much better (safer, less fire risk) job. Once you've used these you'll never go back to the cheapie ones. Sorry if telling you how to suck eggs on this one and you're already using the ratchet type! Example here http://www.amazon.co.uk/Draper-35574-Ratchet-Crimping-Tool/dp/B0001K9TGA

Oh, and while on the subject, make sure the bolts are retightened to correct torque. These bolts should be loaded in tension, not in shear, and they're a good example of where a bolt should be stretched by much tightening, which increases stress in the bolt but reduces stress amplitude (of the variable element of the stress, I mean) and hence increases time taken for a fatigue failure. If you're being perfectionist about it! :-)
 
Well done and thanks Jfm /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Its the yellow one.
[image]http://www.cablecraft.co.uk/image.php?width=175&filename=WebCat-[/image]
 
Doh,
I have 250 on the way now, I nearly sent you a pm but didnt like to trouble you.

If they dont turn up , yes I could do with a couple please.
If they do turn up I will have a few spares left over you are welcome to.
 
Hi Pete
This is not quite the simple job it would seem...
On the VP gearbox you cannot get a single nut off without undoing ALL of them and dropping the shaft back.
This can disturb your gland packing so watch it if doing this afloat.
You may have more clearance with your 'boxes but have a good look before getting stuck in.
It 's no piece of cake to torque bolts with ring terminals attached, having renewed both my couplings last year.
Hence the mfrs bit of silver fag paper solution
Tim
 
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