What's Leixeos Like?

DrBob

DrBob

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What\'s Leixeos Like?

We are now two months into our trip down from Scotland to Lagos. Currently in Portosin marina in the Spanish Rias.

I'm looking at ports to stop at on the way down the Portugal coast - looking to do it with no more than 60-70 mile passages. Leixeos is recommended in the pilot books for access to Porto but I dont fancy some of the reports of having to clean the waterline of the boat after being there. Anyone with current experience? I think it was closed a few years ago to clean it up.

While I'm at it, any recommendations of "must see" anchorages in the Rias?

Dr Bob
 
Re: What\'s Leixeos Like?

Hi - we were there two years ago, only for a couple of nights, and it wasn't as bad as is often rumoured. They wouldn't let us anchor off and dinghy into the marina (as said in the pilot book) even for a dinghy parking fee, so if you want to leave the boat, go ashore adn visit Oporto you have to book into the marina. We spent one night at anchor and one night in the marina, and scouted around a lot but could find no where to get ashore independently.

We do know people who've braved the Oporto entrance and teid up satisfactorily against the quays there, but can't speak from personal experience.

In the rias, definitely go to Muros (just across from where you are) if you haven't already; really nice. Also a little cove (can't remember the name) just onthe southern lip of Ria Arosa; only good in calm weather but great beach. And definitely do not miss the Isla Ceis; absolutely fascinating if a bit crowded in daylight hours.

Finally -we anchored off Villagarcia but found the whole experience so awful that at first light we upped and offskied. It gets gradually shallower for miles so you're on tenterhooks in a not very well lit channel (it was dark) for ages. Then the lights on the island off the northern edge (can't remember name, northernmost outpost of the national park archipelago that culminates in Isla Cies) are for some reason amazingly brightly lit; therefore although the pilot warns you of cockle-farm stakes, you can't see a blasted thing. So, if you go there, go in daylight! And don't assume that the crowded fishing ports in the ria will yield up a space; we tried that and spent two hours reversing gently in a small sace getting a lobsterpot off the anchor. (Which is why it was dark as we nosed towards Villagarcia.) A long and sorry tale, but no harm done.

But there are loads of fab places; we decided to go on south but could have spent the rest of the season poking around the rias.
 
Re: What\'s Leixeos Like?

Was there in 2005 didnt seem too bad to me I think it was officially closed at the time and was thus free. I do remember a nice restaurant not too far from the marina which had a waitress looked like Nursey from Black Adder. Great meal! We were all impressed when she adjusted one of the giant oak tables with a flick of the wrist ( had taken two of us to move em). /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif
 
Re: What\'s Leixeos Like?

Sahra and Pip,

thanks for the info. SHMBO has been reading the "two in a boat" which paints a pretty bleak picture of Leixeos. Maybe we should only go into places we can pronounce.... That may not be a good idea as I asked for the menu today and got shown the way to the toilets!

Thanks also for the info on the Rias. We did the quick trip from La Coruna to Camarinas and then here to Portosin so havent had chance to look at this ria yet. We are flying home for a week to check the house is still there and then be back here for 3 weeks or so before heading south to Lagos. Muros looks like the next stop then.

Dr Bob
 
Re: What\'s Leixeos Like?

It was bad, really oily, when I first visited in the early 90's, but there must have been a major cleanup as it was fine in 2005. There is a good marina (Porto Atlantico), or you can anchor for free directly outside the marina. There is nothing of interest directly ashore, but buses into Oporto.

Its one of the few all-weather ports in Portugal. The only real problem is how busy the entrance gets with coasters and fishing vessels, and there seems to be no sort of entry signals or control.
 
Re: What\'s Leixeos Like?

Porto is great, stop there. Then go direct to Nazare. I stopped in Figueira da Foz, which is a very nice town, but the marina is incredibly expensive, and if there is a NW swell, forget it, you'll surf through the entrance.

It's a bit of a problem down the coast of Portugal...
 
Re: What\'s Leixeos Like?

I was there last year. We anchored outside the marina and dighied to the wall seperating the marina from the anchorage. I think we did that for a couple of days but then moved into the marina as it was !"£$ing windy and we also wanted to visit Porto. The marina was quite reasonably priced.

Combarro was one of my favourite places in the rias. Touristy but full of narrow cobbled streets, old buildings (sounds a bit lame, I guess you just have to go there).

Islas Cies too!

Cinnamon
www.vega1494.blogspot.com
 
Re: Access to Porto

I'm in Combarro at the moment, I'd definitely recommend it. There is now a marina (although I'm anchored off the old town).
In the Ria de Arosa I'd recommend Caraminel (or A Pobo as they seem to refer to it). Again, there is a marina, but anchoring is good in the bay off the beach and dingy access to the town is OK. Good supermarkets, restaurants etc. Also in Ria de Arosa I anchored for a couple of days off Isla Toxe Grande. See my blog for comments. Just round the corner (southbound) is San Vicente. A great beach. I didn't use the marina (you're probably building up a mental picture of me now) but the holding off the beach is excellent in sand. Some very interesting rock formations to snorkel around, if you feel inclined. San Vicente is a holiday resort and as such there's not much there.
I can't comment on Lexoes because I haven't been there for 13 years so it must have changed. I was in Povoa de vazim a couple of years ago and it was great. It seems to me there aren't many places to anchor down the Portuguese coast (last did the trip 13 years ago). From various bits of research I'd give Peniche a miss. Last time it was a bit of a dump and by all accounts not much better now, although if you just want an overnight 'pitstop' I guess it would be OK. I'm told by people with first-hand knowledge that the marina at Cascais is b------- expensive, but you can still anchor in the bay at Cascais. The wind winds itself up in the afternoon until about 0100 when it suddenly switches itself off, making pottering about in the dingy a bit problematical.
If you're using the RCC Atlantic Spain & Portugal pilot I'd say that the chap who wrote the Spanish section is very marina orientated & hopefully Anne Hammick remains (and writes) as a person on a budget. With all the free anchoring in the Rias I simply can't imagine why anybody would want to go into a marina apart from leaving the boat (as yourself) or topping up with water. Incidentally, you can fill up water tanks for free at Caraminel.
Have a good trip, I'm leisurely en route to Lisbon then Porto Santo, so we may see each other in portugal, boat name same as my monnicker.
 
Re: What\'s Leixeos Like?

Quote from my web site for Portuguese coast: [ QUOTE ]
Viana do Castelo. If you stop here, take the funicular or taxi (cheap) to the temple overlooking the town, go to the platform above the dome, walk to the Pousada behind the temple past the ruins of the Celtic round houses. Have a beer on the veranda (outstanding views).

Porto (10/10) A must, especially if you'd like to learn about port. Although it's possible to enter the river, don't bother. Stay in Leixoes or Povoa de Varzim. In Leixoes accept that your waterline will become oily, and catch one of the frequent buses into town. Povoa is a little further away, but the marina is good, and connects with a light railway. Porto is perched on the side of the river Douro, almost a gorge, and tumbles picturesquely down to the riverside, which is a world heritage site. Go to a free tasting at one of the port lodges on the other side of the river - in Gaia. Taylor's is our favourite, very informative, though a bit of a hike up the hillside away from the slurping masses. If you fall in love with the stuff, go spend an afternoon at the Solar do Vinho do Porto - who offer hundreds of ports of many different types, bought by the glass, in very civilised surroundings. They're just west of the 'Crystal Palace'. Recover among the bars and restaurants above the old quayside.

Figueiro de Foz. Take the train to the old university town of Coimbra and visit some of the lovely old university buildings (7/10). The train follows the river with many paddy fields growing rice.

Lisbon (8/10) has more to offer then Porto. Being a bigger city, it takes much longer to learn and explore. Bring the boat into Doca de Alcantara near the city centre, or leave it in the expensive marina at Cascais and catch a train into town. To get the best out of the Lisbon, bone up on it with a 'Rough Guide to Portugal' and plan a stay of at least three nights (preferably a week - it's a fun place).

Nazare or Peniche. From either of these ports, if you can tear yourself away from the seafood restaurants, consider a bus ride to the to the old walled city of Obidos (7/10), little changed since the fourteenth century. Sadly, rather dense with tourists like us in the daytime.

[/ QUOTE ]
There is also a lot of detail on the site, including restaurants and bars where appropriate, on the Rias. That's too big to post . . .

And, Troutbridge, if you've got any updates, comments or additions, they'd be very welcome!
 
Re: What\'s Leixeos Like?

All the rias are worth visiting imo.
You are on that coast at a fantastic time of year so enjoy!
By the way,the river bar at Figuera Da Foz really is a b-tch in an onshore wind,I have been stuck there twice for weeks (in the autumn,each time). Great fun watching small coasters 'having a go'on approaching in a big surf.....Of course it was a marina-free and cheap friendly town then.....
Leixoes-too long ago to be really useful but it was oily,friendly and well connected to other places back in the 90s...
Cascais.you roll
Lisbon if you can get a berth,thats the dogs b-llux for an overwinter town 'stay'..
 
Re: Access to Porto

Thanks to all the excellent and detailed information.

Troutbridge, very useful and we will follow it all up. Took a look at the blog - nice one! May see you in August if we catch you up.

JimB. I will print your blog info off when we get home. As Troutbridge says the RCC pilot focusses heavily on marinas for the Rias - which wasnt the plan.

Keep the comments coming guys.

Dr Bob
 
Re: What\'s Leixeos Like?

Just walk up to the local village, look in the window for Nursey cant miss her.
 
Re: What\'s Leixeos Like?

When I first went to Leixoes in 2005 the marina was closed after a fire. We went down to Porto and stayed a day. (on a 55 footer). I've never heard anything good about Leixoes so last year I decided to pass Leixoes and go into Porto with my own boat.

I couldn't resist spending at least one night in the magnificent setting of Porto. No problems at all. It is best to enter/exit at high water. While I was there several skippers stopped to chat saying they had been put off visiting Porto by the comments in one of the pilot books. Porto is not a place to leave the boat unattended for lengthy periods but there is so much nearby this does not matter.

There is a fast current alongside the stone quays which are very high but I was single handing and moored without difficulty. A fender board is essential.

If you don't want to go into Porto, Povoa de Varzim is a good stop. The new Porto Metro goes all the way to Povoa Varzim. Povoa de Varzim to Figeura da Foz could be done in a day.

Figuera da Foz is a nice enough town but the marina is a tad rundown and over priced. The port closes when big swells set in. Coimbra, a short train ride inland is worth a visit.

Nazarre is an all weather port and a nice enough stop over.

I spent April-June in the Rias last year visiting lots of places. Some notes here might be of interest.

If you are spending some time in the Rias, El Litoral de Galicia - Rias Baixas is worth buying. It's in Spanish but is mainly maps of the entire Rias Baixas overlaid on aerial photographs. I found it very useful.
 
Re: What\'s Leixeos Like?

Jim, I was there in June. There were places reserved for tour boats but I was in the centre of the quay and they were at either end. No problems at all. There were two french yachts there as well.
 
Re: What\'s Leixeos Like?

Was there a couple of weeks ago. The water is no better/worse than pretty much any other marina we'd been into. No trace of oil etc so I think they must have cleaned up their act. I also thought it was quite reasonable and a good base to leave the boat and go and visit porto by public transport. All day, bus and tram ticket was €4.

Enjoy

Chas
 
Re: What\'s Leixeos Like?

Thanks again for all the comments.

On a separate note, how high does the swell have to be to make Figuera da Foz difficult to get into? From monitoring the swell height and direction over the past few weeks it looks like it's been 1 -1.5m from the west or north west. Is the entrance OK in these sort of conditions? It would certainly make it easier to stop there and avoid a 100 mile passage.

Dr Bob
 
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