What varnish, and how to apply it?

[prv]

For a fibreglass boat, Kindred Spirit has quite a lot of woodwork. This falls into two categories - firstly the masts, booms and gaffs (which are in pretty reasonable condition) and secondly things like the cockpit seat slats, instrument mounting boards, winch plinths, and lots of trim pieces - most of which are rather tattier with areas of "blown" varnish that have developed over this season.

The wood on deck obviously needs treatment this winter, and I'd also like to give the spars a preemptive top-up. I've never really done much varnishing before, certainly nothing that had to resist the weather.

What product would people recommend for this?

I'm not out to achieve aesthetic perfection or an Edwardian racing-yacht finish. My goal is a practical coating that will protect the wood for a reasonable length of time. I don't want anything that requires perfect conditions for application and flakes off otherwise, because I won't be able to reliably give it those conditions. Similarly something that demands exacting skill is probably not a good bet. It doesn't necessarily need to be a traditional varnish, but I don't want to change the appearance significantly, so painting it with white Jotamastic and a Penguard topcoat is out, however hardwearing

For the spars, I don't want to remove the existing mostly-sound varnish, so something that will go on top is needed. I'd also prefer not to strip the other wood, although given the current finish I might consider it given sufficient justification. Many of the pieces are fiddly to sand though and probably couldn't be stripped 100% if that's important.

Some of the stuff, such as the seat slats, can be brought into my small workshop. Other things are either fastened to the boat (eg the trim round the gunwale) or too big to fit in the workshop (the boom) or too big to move from the yard at all (the mast). So some things at least are going to have to be treated outside under minimal coverings. Any tips on doing that over winter (apart from "don't" )?

Any other advice for a varnishing novice with a big job to do gratefully accepted!

Pete

 

[SailBobSquarePants]

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For general varnish, it's hard to beat Epiphanes, but like all true varnishes it doesn't like to be applied in the damp. I used Cetol (an artificial varnish) for my topsides brightwork, and was not really happy with the colour I used - Natural. But I think the Light Teak colour is very nice, and it can be applied when it is damp and moderately cold. It is breathable, so it lets the moisture trapped under it escape after it dries, unlike varnish. A good Cetol finish is likely to last for nearly 5 years I am told...

But I used Epiphanes down below on the companionway, and I wished I had used it on everything...next time. Simply a gorgeous, shimmery finish that looks like varnish is supposed to look - see the book above.

BTW - Epiphanes is like honey in consistency, I used a very high quality brush, worked in small sections, diluted as per the label for first coats, and was well rewarded by it. I used foam brushes on some satin varnish I applied belowdecks, and while it worked I have to say that even a relative beginner like me could do better with a high quality brush rather than foam...

I do question the application of varnish over a bad base however...you have to do so much masking and prep work anyway...are you sure you don't want to start fresh?

 

[Tranona]

Suggest you use Sikkens Cetol or Novatech/Top two stage finish. This is a porous woodstain rather than a varnish and gives a final sheen rather than gloss. It usually comes out top in durability in long term tests, is cheaper than varnish because of the high level of solids, easy to apply as it only needs 3 coats and easy to touch up. I switched to it about 15years ago after trying most of the other potions and it is by far the best.

You will have to strip all the old stuff off - not necessarily as difficult as you think, but well worth the effort now to save hours of work in the coming years. Cornish Crabbers use Cetol for spars now, but yours may be diffeent. Touching up spars will depend on what is on there already, but if the film has broken and letting water into the wood, then stripping back and starting again is necessary. Again you can use Sikkens - my mast stayed up 6 years with no breaking down of the film, and a rub down and one coat was enough.

 

[doug748]

I must agree with much of what has been said. I would use:
Woodstain (Blackfriars, Ronseal / pick your favourite) on those cockpit areas that might be walked on.
Cetol Novatech, or similar (Light Pine shade seems ok on teak) on those areas where you want to show off a bit but are not subject to high wear. A couple of applications out of the one pot can work ok.
Traditional stuff on those things that may well already have it, eg Your spars.
Polyurethanes are not my favourite.

 

[lw395]

There is no substitute for good varnish.
For the outdoor bits you want something with good UV resistance.
Epiphanes or International.
I find the polyurethane works well for me, on decent woodwork, the trad varnish may work a little better on wood that moves more.
Note that trad tung oil based varnish can react badly to epoxy and take ages to cure, even if the epoxy is fully cured itself.

The woodstain stuff looks better than neglected varnish, but I am yet to see anything that would look acceptable on a Merlin Rocket. But then Merlins are normally kept covered up most of the time.

 

[jwilson]

Polyurethanes are not my favourite.

Agreed: Polyurethanes are certainly much longer-lasting but when you have to get them off because parts are flaking - and sooner or later you will - it can be really hard work. Ordinary yacht varnishes don't last as long but come off very easily with a hot air gun and scraper.

 

[prv]

Thanks guys. No overwhelming vote in favour of one product, but I suppose that's to be expected. Further input is still welcome.

I was quite taken by this writeup of Cetol Marine, saying it was designed for easy application, could go on relatively moist wood, and didn't need sanding between coats. However, it could well be that this is just a case of more appealing copywriting.

Interesting no recommends for Deks Olje, which I believe is what we used when refurbishing a spar on Stavros:

 

[Tranona]

The woodstain stuff looks better than neglected varnish, but I am yet to see anything that would look acceptable on a Merlin Rocket. But then Merlins are normally kept covered up most of the time.

Horses for courses! when I had my Osprey with a beautiful striped Sapele foredeck I finished to a mirror finish with many coats of traditional varnish. Lasted for years because it was only exposed to daylight for a couple of hours each week and washed off and leathered before being covered up.

However the OP has a "traditional" looking boat which will look great finished with Sikkens and allow more time to wasted on something more useful.

 

[whipper_snapper]

I recommend foam brushes. Purists may have hysterics at the suggestion, but it is much easier for an amateur like me to get a very acceptable finish with a cheap foam brush.

 

[westernman]

For a traditional boat you might like to consider Tonkinois.
It goes on easy, seems to give good results on almost anything.

It is not as hard wearing as two pack, but then it won't ever come off in flakes or chip in the corners. It seems very tolerant of being put on in poor conditions with little or no preparation by numpties like me. (e.g. when it rained just as I was finishing up with no noticeable effect)

I did a dinghy once in two pack varnish - never again.
Too hard to use right.

 

[prv]

However the OP has a "traditional" looking boat which will look great finished with Sikkens and allow more time to wasted on something more useful.

Yep! As I said in my original post, I'm looking for practical rather than wanky concourse perfection. By way of comparison the topsides have a visibly hand-brushed paint finish courtesy of the last owner, and I think that looks just fine for this tubby little crabber.

Pete

 

[prv]

For a traditional boat you might like to consider Tonkinois.

Interesting. I did see a stand for that at the boat show, but since all the samples they had were (in retrospect, not surprisingly) of the mirror-finish, perfection, spend-all-your-time-varnishing-instead-of-sailing variety, I decided it wasn't relevant to me and kept walking.

Do note that Kindred Spirit isn't really traditional - she's a plastic gaffer with assorted bits of ply and random timber stuck to the outside

Pete

 

[Poignard]

For a traditional boat you might like to consider Tonkinois.
It goes on easy, seems to give good results on almost anything.

It is not as hard wearing as two pack, but then it won't ever come off in flakes or chip in the corners. It seems very tolerant of being put on in poor conditions with little or no preparation by numpties like me. (e.g. when it rained just as I was finishing up with no noticeable effect)

I did a dinghy once in two pack varnish - never again.
Too hard to use right.

Yes I agree - Tonkinois. Seems very tolerant and easier to apply than oils because it has a thicker consistency.

But if you prefer a traditional varnish, then I would recommend Epifanes.

 

[2nd_apprentice]

I'm quite fond of Le Tonkinois, both their vernis No 1 and huiles bio impression. The latter being a quick drying linseed oil with a few additives. Reasonably hard wearing and very easy to apply. Not abrasion resistant though so not suitable for some applications.

 

[dur]

I think the two real options have been covered - i.e. either varnish or modern alternative. The two are not same. If you go for varnish I too have used Le Tonk with excellent results if starting from bare wood. I reckon you can get to barley sugar with fewer coats than most other varnish. I use Epiphanes now - cos that is what was used before on the boat. Goes on well, looks great and lasts well. The secret weapon is to add some Owatrol oil.
IMHO if you go with varnish it is best to light sand all exposed varnishwork and do one coat every year. If you don't then you probably won't find the odd chip or scuff where water will get in next season. We have covers over everything except the mast and bowsprit so these have to be done every year. On a Crabber these would be no big deal and I would have thought worth the effort.

If you don't have the time and you don't mind the thin brown paint look, you can't do better than the Sikkens mentioned. I have used the Cetol Filter 7 over a primer of HLS. Also as mentioned you do have to strip back first to make the most of its properties. Annual maintenance is a rub down with meths on a rag and one quick coat. I would think you would be able to wipe and paint a Crabber's mast in under an hour, certainly under two.

 

[Tranona]

Interesting no recommends for Deks Olje, which I believe is what we used when refurbishing a spar on Stavros:

Of all the different products i have used, this was the worst. Claimed that the D1 "soaks into the wood" Not in my experience having poured a whole tin into my Douglas Fir mast then finished with 6 coats of D2. Did all the external brightwork as well. A month's work on and off, with the stripping. In year 3 the film broke and when I stripped it, thankfully most just crumbled away. That was when I switched to Sikkens - best decision in boat maintenance I have ever made.

 

[alahol2]

Another vote for Cetol Filter 7. Deal colour seems to have the least effect on the original colour of the wood. About three coats initially, then a quick wipe and another coat each year. Tried all the other varnishes for years and I would never go back (except for internal varnish).

 

[Scotty_Tradewind]

I'm quite fond of Le Tonkinois, both their vernis No 1 and huiles bio impression. The latter being a quick drying linseed oil with a few additives. Reasonably hard wearing and very easy to apply. Not abrasion resistant though so not suitable for some applications.

Le Tonkinois every time...
I find it very durable,(had it on one washboard and it outlasted International on the other washboard by 3 years) very uv stable and easy to apply/recoat.

 

[Billjratt]

I found tonkinois to be a bit vulnerable to both knocks and solvents...
I did a prolonged and ultimately (for me) beautiful finish on the saloon table on our liveaboard. It never seemed to harden properly, and I was aghast when a bit of antifoul dripped on it and reacted....

 

[Redwing228]

Working look?

Yep! As I said in my original post, I'm looking for practical rather than wanky concourse perfection. By way of comparison the topsides have a visibly hand-brushed paint finish courtesy of the last owner, and I think that looks just fine for this tubby little crabber.

Pete

If you want a more 'work-day' look then a Sikkens type stain/treatment is probably easier to apply and maintain, but it shows.. Our Finesse was finished all over in this stuff when we bought her and it cried out that the owner didn't really care.

IMHO, a carefully applied conventional or polyurethane finish looks the part on a yacht or dinghy. There is no substitute for elbow grease and plenty of coats, carefully applied. As always, it is sunlight that ruins the varnish and bleaches the timber underneath, so every 2-years a rub-down and re-coat keeps the protection up(annually on high-wear areas). Sorry but I am a self-confessed varnish snob.

International 'Original', 'Goldspar' (discontinued) and now 'Compass' are my weapons of choice.