What to look for in an inflatable dinghy

[SimonFa]

I know this has been done on numerous occasions but I have some specific questions.

I'm looking for something small, I don't envisage more than 3 people. I'm looking at the Waveline 2.7m where the seat as at the rear and the Seago 230 RT where it is further forward.

What is the difference between having the person rowing forward for further back?

I suppose if I get round to fitting a small outboard it is better to have the seat towards the rear, but is there anything else I should be thinking about?

Many thanks in advance,

Simon

 

[FulmarJeddo]

When I was looking a few years ago, I was torn between a Seago and a Plastimo dinghy. I opted for the Plastimo. Shortly after, I went ashore at a harbour in Cornwall with lots of dinghies tied up at a set of steps. The only way to get to the steps was to climb over several dinghies. One being the Seago that I had been considering. It was noticeable how much smaller diameter the tubes were than the Plastimo and how much less bouancy and stability it had. It's definately worth comparing tube diameters and bow shape for dryness of ride in a chop.

 

[SimonFa]

When I was looking a few years ago, I was torn between a Seago and a Plastimo dinghy. I opted for the Plastimo. Shortly after, I went ashore at a harbour in Cornwall with lots of dinghies tied up at a set of steps. The only way to get to the steps was to climb over several dinghies. One being the Seago that I had been considering. It was noticeable how much smaller diameter the tubes were than the Plastimo and how much less bouancy and stability it had. It's definately worth comparing tube diameters and bow shape for dryness of ride in a chop.

Thanks, so which is the best bow in chop? I really am new to this.

 

[theoldsalt]

My preference is for an inflatable with rubber rowlocks not fixed oars as it is easier to row. If using an outboard then I prefer a transom to a round tail. Inflatable floors are handy for stowing but I prefer a wooden floor - maybe get a slatted floor and the dinghy can be rooled up. I prefer hypolon to pvc as it seems to survive in the sun a lot longer. There are very good second hand Avons occasionally on ebay.

So I recommend either a good used Avon Rover (transom inflatable) or a Seago with rubber rowlocks - either your choice of the 230RT or a transom version if you intend adding an outboard.

I hope this helps but I'm sure others will have different opinons.

 

[NormanS]

If you want it to roll up small, go for a round-tail.
If you are going to use an outboard quite a bit, go for a transom.
If you are going to row, go for one with decent rowlocks (probably Avon style). Also make sure that the rowing seat is low enough to let you get the oars well out of the water. Go for decent length oars.
I believe that some materials are better than others at standing up to sunlight. I couldn't comment.

 

[FulmarJeddo]

Thanks, so which is the best bow in chop? I really am new to this.

A higher bow will keep you dryer. The Seago I had been looking at was quite low in comparison to the Plastimo I bought. I have just had a quick google and they do seem to have improved the shape of the Seagos. The bows look to be more raised now. An inflatable deck and keel also improve the ride making the whole boat more rigid and easier to row as it gives more directional stability.

 

[charles_reed]

Having been through choosing replacement inflatables, here's my list:

1. Size of tube - go for the largest, anything under 45cm will be wet and unstable, mine has 51cm tubes.
2. Without an inflatable keel an inflatable is almost unrowable, this usually goes with an inflatable floor (this is the most likely part to wear out).
3. Whilst roundtails stow in a smaller space, they usually have the smallest tubes and are almost impossible to motor. I'd avoid them (I've still got a Redstart in the shed). I'd avoid for real use.
4. Whilst Hypalon has the longest life, any dinghy made in it has to be hand made - you can usually buy 2 decitex dinghies for the price of 1 hypalon. Anything in less than 1100 decitex is only fit for a paddling pool.
All IMHO

My dinghy needs to be able to motor a mile or so in a Seastate 5, as I'm on the boat 6/12 of the year and generally at anchor. With a 3.3 2 stroke it planes with 1 up. It's regularly used for rowing out a kedge anchor.

 

[vyv_cox]

Having been through choosing replacement inflatables, here's my list:

1. Size of tube - go for the largest, anything under 45cm will be wet and unstable, mine has 51cm tubes.
2. Without an inflatable keel an inflatable is almost unrowable, this usually goes with an inflatable floor (this is the most likely part to wear out).
3. Whilst roundtails stow in a smaller space, they usually have the smallest tubes and are almost impossible to motor. I'd avoid them (I've still got a Redstart in the shed). I'd avoid for real use.
4. Whilst Hypalon has the longest life, any dinghy made in it has to be hand made - you can usually buy 2 decitex dinghies for the price of 1 hypalon. Anything in less than 1100 decitex is only fit for a paddling pool.
All IMHO

My dinghy needs to be able to motor a mile or so in a Seastate 5, as I'm on the boat 6/12 of the year and generally at anchor. With a 3.3 2 stroke it planes with 1 up. It's regularly used for rowing out a kedge anchor.

I cannot argue with any of that. All sound pointers to a dinghy that will work well in a wide range of conditions. We have owned a Quicksilver 2.6 Airdeck with inflatable keel for more than 10 years, still in good condition. Now replaced (we hope, if the delivery goes OK) with the new version of Quicksilver with an inflatable hull, now a 2.3 as this design seems to give more space aboard and it fits the foredeck better.

 

[GrahamM376]

Wavelines have Avon type rowlocks and the seat is on rails so it can be adjusted fore/aft. We have had a couple of 2.9s and have been very happy with them. Two friends bought Seago and are both disappointed, very light and puncture easily.

 

[NormanS]

Having been through choosing replacement inflatables, here's my list:

1. Size of tube - go for the largest, anything under 45cm will be wet and unstable, mine has 51cm tubes.
2. Without an inflatable keel an inflatable is almost unrowable, this usually goes with an inflatable floor (this is the most likely part to wear out).
3. Whilst roundtails stow in a smaller space, they usually have the smallest tubes and are almost impossible to motor. I'd avoid them (I've still got a Redstart in the shed). I'd avoid for real use.
4. Whilst Hypalon has the longest life, any dinghy made in it has to be hand made - you can usually buy 2 decitex dinghies for the price of 1 hypalon. Anything in less than 1100 decitex is only fit for a paddling pool.
All IMHO

My dinghy needs to be able to motor a mile or so in a Seastate 5, as I'm on the boat 6/12 of the year and generally at anchor. With a 3.3 2 stroke it planes with 1 up. It's regularly used for rowing out a kedge anchor.

I wouldn't argue with most of that, EXCEPT to say that generations of people have successfully managed to row Avons, from long before inflatable floors or inflatable keels were thought of. My redcrest probably gets as much use as any, and is almost exclusively rowed. I do have longer oars than the silly little paddles that most dinghys have, and I would accept that rowing a rubber dinghy does need a different technique from that of rowing a rigid dinghy.

 

[blackbeard]

... and to add, of course, that if you want to carry it on a yacht, then size and weight, and size when deflated, become important, possibly deciding factors.
Generally, a dinghy which is big enough to be seaworthy and with decent carrying capacity will be too big and too heavy to stow easily.
Getting a deflated dinghy into and out of a locker, given that the cross-section of locker hatch will in general be less than cross-section of deflated dinghy, will give a risk of Bad Back. At the least there will be a risk of the dinghy being the most cursed item on board.
Incidentally, what is the expected lifetime in service of a rubber dinghy? I ask because mine's coming up to about 14 years and I'm wondering if I need to replace it ...

 

[vyv_cox]

Incidentally, what is the expected lifetime in service of a rubber dinghy? I ask because mine's coming up to about 14 years and I'm wondering if I need to replace it ...

Depends a lot on where it is and what type. You will find many posts on the forums about Hypalon Avons that are 25+ years old but the cost of manufacturing dinghies in this material have all-but rendered it obsolete. There seem to be various types of PVC, some last a long time, some less so. Leaving them in the sun may shorten lives, some more than others. My experience, with a more expensive PVC as used for Quicksilver and others, is that it has had 10 years of constant Mediterranean sun with very little evidence of deterioration. Others have reported no more than three years in the same sun before the material went sticky.

 

[SimonFa]

Thanks everyone, some useful information to consider this weekend.

 

[KevB]

"What to look for in an inflatable dinghy"

Water. It means it's leaking..

 

[charles_reed]

I wouldn't argue with most of that, EXCEPT to say that generations of people have successfully managed to row Avons, from long before inflatable floors or inflatable keels were thought of. My redcrest probably gets as much use as any, and is almost exclusively rowed. I do have longer oars than the silly little paddles that most dinghys have, and I would accept that rowing a rubber dinghy does need a different technique from that of rowing a rigid dinghy.

Yes, I've still got one, a fantastic low-tech device - and I'd like to see you rowing it 500m into and onshore Bf5. We have moved on from "Cockleshell Heros". Mind you grandchildren love it.

 

[Ruffles]

I replaced a roundtail with a hard transom plastimo. Old one was falling apart.
Roughly the same size and weight packed up. Same time to unpack. Roughly the same length inflated.
The new plastimo is faster as the outboard is more secure. But really only practical two up. So getting four people ashore is actually slower than the old dinghy.
Oh, and the old roundtail had a hard thwart. New one has a cushion. Potentially amusing. But not much use for rowing.

 

[Jabs]

+1 for inflatable floor.

Think about the weight. A heavy dinghy seldom gets used.

Seamark Nunn have some very light dinghies and the prices are pretty good.

My next choice!

At the end of the day, it's a matter of personal choice.

Tony.

 

[C08]

As has been mentioned standard length oars make rowing not so good. I have just bought some longer length oars for inflatables and the difference is immense. Worth thinking about for only about £30... and you then have a spare pair!

 

[KellysEye]

>My preference is for an inflatable with rubber rowlocks not fixed oars as it is easier to row. If using an outboard then I prefer a transom to a round tail. Inflatable floors are handy for stowing but I prefer a wooden floor - maybe get a slatted floor and the dinghy can be rooled up. I prefer hypolon to pvc as it seems to survive in the sun a lot longer. There are very good second hand Avons occasionally on ebay. So I recommend either a good used Avon Rover (transom inflatable) or a Seago with rubber rowlocks - either your choice of the 230RT or a transom version if you intend adding an outboard.
I hope this helps but I'm sure others will have different opinons.

I agree.

 

[doris]

I made a mistake with my first one. Flat floor, no keel, heavy, was lucky to find a mate who bought it off me, albeit at a loss. Thought a bit more over the next one. Inflatable floor and keel are a must, IMHO, and max size tubes. Look at the carrying capacity. Simply cos it has a capacity of 250 kg does mean it's good for three people. Bit of a chop and you are wet and bugg*red.
I finished up with Zodiac 270 roller, with a transom. Best compromise I could find and after three years am still of the same view. Floor and keel the priority cos they provide the extra buoyancy and stability.