What size rope for Lazy Jacks

[purplerobbie]

Would 6mm do? or would it need to be lighter?

Also can you buy covered blocks? or is there no need?

Rob

 

[snowleopard]

Would 6mm do? or would it need to be lighter?

Also can you buy covered blocks? or is there no need?

Rob

6mm should be fine, that's what I use on my 500 sq ft main. With a smaller main you might go down to 5mm. Anything smaller is string.

Forget fancy blocks, just use a stainless ring. Cheaper, no chafe. The only place you need a block is where it joins the mast.

 

[purplerobbie]

Thats a good idea
I was just looking for blocks on ebay and they are £6 each.
Thank you

Rob

 

[BAtoo]

""The only place you need a block is where it joins the mast.""

On the KISS principle i have just got rid of my mast blocks and the line t now just runs through a simple saddle eye!
5 or 6mm rope will be fine.

 

[Stork_III]

6mm should be fine, that's what I use on my 500 sq ft main. With a smaller main you might go down to 5mm. Anything smaller is string.

Forget fancy blocks, just use a stainless ring. Cheaper, no chafe. The only place you need a block is where it joins the mast.

Use 6mm with sewn eyes, even less "no chafe".

 

[snooks]

Barton make a kit it's only £320!

The key I've found to lazy jacks and a good system is the mast track end. if your sail slides a as close to friction free as possible (and to have a fully battened main) then you can cast off the halyard and watch it fall down neatly.

If you want to go with covered block you can, but a previous owner of Pixie has just used the nylon/plastic eyes that are spliced into rope....but instead of splicing the rings he has sewn the rope together. Job done!

Should save you about £300!

 

[purplerobbie]

I did think about splicing the plastic bits in the end of the rope but didnt think they would run freely?

Rob

 

[Stork_III]

Try it without the plastic bits. Works fine.

 

[theguerns]

rope size

I have just made new for our Colvic Watson 32 in 6mm three strand and used S/S thimbles. I use 3 strand so I can splice in the thimbles total cost €120 Time taken plus fitting 2.5 hrs

 

[purplerobbie]

Try it without the plastic bits. Works fine.

So it will work ok with rope on rope?
Wont it wear out the rope really quick? the stainless steel thimbles are only £1.25 for 2 on ebay?
Rob

 

[Stork_III]

So it will work ok with rope on rope?
Wont it wear out the rope really quick? the stainless steel thimbles are only £1.25 for 2 on ebay?
Rob

Has lasted 6 years on my HR with no sail chafe either. But anyway rope is cheaper to replace than mainsail.

 

[emsworthy]

KISS!

Am I missing something here?

One of the most effective lazy jack systems I've seen has simple loops about 30mm long formed by bowlines at the various junctions of the lines, this is on a HR36 that has done at least one Atlantic circuit in its current ownership with no chafe or wear to sail or lines and not a mention of blocks, splicing or eyes sewn in.

 

[Lady Campanula]

Am I missing something here?

One of the most effective lazy jack systems I've seen has simple loops about 30mm long formed by bowlines at the various junctions of the lines, this is on a HR36 that has done at least one Atlantic circuit in its current ownership with no chafe or wear to sail or lines and not a mention of blocks, splicing or eyes sewn in.

Yes, the KISS approach works very well. If one is at all uncertain, then just use round nylon/plastic rings ( about 50p each ), with the line sewn or tied in and the short end neatly bound with self-amalgamating tape. That's as done on a Rival 34 nearly a decade ago, and still going strong.

Having s/s eyes, small expensive sheave blocks, covers, et all just adds to the weight and expense, and adds chafe to the mainsail They don't add to the functionality....

 

[Stork_III]

Am I missing something here?

One of the most effective lazy jack systems I've seen has simple loops about 30mm long formed by bowlines at the various junctions of the lines, this is on a HR36 that has done at least one Atlantic circuit in its current ownership with no chafe or wear to sail or lines and not a mention of blocks, splicing or eyes sewn in.

Tied bowlines work just as well, but whipped or sewn soft eye just neater.

 

[CAPTAIN FANTASTIC]

Am I missing something here?

One of the most effective lazy jack systems I've seen has simple loops about 30mm long formed by bowlines at the various junctions of the lines, this is on a HR36 that has done at least one Atlantic circuit in its current ownership with no chafe or wear to sail or lines and not a mention of blocks, splicing or eyes sewn in.

Just like mine

 

[snowleopard]

Some have their lazyjacks pretty well static once they have adjusted the tension at the start of the season. If you do that there will be little chafe as the ropes don't move over each other.

Some arrange them so they can be pulled forwards to the mast so they don't snag when hoisting the main. If you do it that way you'll need to reduce friction and chafe.