What more would you want in a windlass/anchor roller setup?

[noelex]

The kobra has a motor hanging down, some sort of open box should be easy enough, angled base to let any water drain. Stanley reckons thin kitchen chopping boards from the supermarket would be fine Nylon maybe? Would epoxy work to join the edges anyone? Tabs with tapped holes going onto the plate now to mount the box.

The motor is very close to the chain, which will carry a lot of seawater so I think some protection would be worthwhile.

Stanley appears to be a very capable crew-member, but I am not sure he correct in this case.

Plastic chopping boards are going to be very difficult to glue. Conventional epoxy will not work. Possibly some of the new flexible epoxies stand a chance, but I don’t think it the ideal construction material in this case.

I prefer your earlier suggestion of a ply/epoxy box. However, the face on the chain entry side will be subject to a lot of abrasion. I would construct a plywood/epoxy/fibreglass covered box surrounding the motor and open at the bottom, but on the side adjacent to the chain entry I would add a 3-4 mm aluminium abrasion plate screwed/bolted to the plywood box.

 

[DinghyMan]

The motor is very close to the chain, which will carry a lot of seawater so I think some protection would be worthwhile.

Stanley appears to be a very capable crew-member, but I am not sure he correct in this case.

Plastic chopping boards are going to be very difficult to glue. Conventional epoxy will not work. Possibly some of the new flexible epoxies stand a chance, but I don’t think it the ideal construction material in this case.

I prefer your earlier suggestion of a ply/epoxy box. However, the face on the chain entry side will be subject to a lot of abrasion. I would construct a plywood/epoxy/fibreglass covered box surrounding the motor and open at the bottom, but on the side adjacent to the chain entry I would add a 3-4 mm aluminium abrasion plate screwed/bolted to the plywood box.

Chopping boards tend to be HDPE so as you say almost impossible to glue, or at least impossible to glue economically.

Your box with an aluminium protection plate sounds ideal

 

[GHA]

Well no prizes for dead pretty but stainless stan reckons it won't break. Which is the main thing. Box might though, polystyrene the label said from local diy shop, and is actually quite flexible, might be OK for a few knocks - though well out of the way up there barring a 180. Cost 20 quid maybe for materials, maybe bit less. Just need to find some short bolts or rivets for the corners and slap a load of sealant on the box. Ta for the suggestions and comments.

 

[Neeves]

Your solution to keeping the motor casing dry is only part of the answer.

The chain is stored in the locker and is still wet, and its salt wet. If you are cruising in a pleasant climate the water on the chain will evaporate in the locker and condense on all surfaces, including the surface of the casing of your motor. You need to improve the flow of air in the locker to remove the humid atmosphere - this will be good for both chain and windlass. Boxing the motor may increase potential for corrosion a it will protect the motor from airflow.

Washing the chain whenever you can, when you wash the decks, with fresh water will be a good start as that will reduce the mount of salt. Lifting the chain off the locker base to allow airflow will allow the chain to drain more effectively, add a grate.. Keeping the locker open, whenever the weather is good - will help dry the locker. Storing rope, so that it is kept dry, or allowed to dry, will reduce humidity.

The bet protection for a windlass motor i to coat it with something impermeable before the motor is installed - but it will still corrode from the inside.

You cannot stop the corrosion, only slow it

Jonathan

edit

https://www.sailmagazine.com/diy/know-how-ground-tackle

In the September issue of Cruising Helmsman, of Australia, there is more information on anchor and chain lockers. I don't have access to a pdf nor a link - but I am sure Noelex will be able to supply something .

J

close edit

 

[Neeves]

Very useful info thanks!

You are most welcome

If you have, it would be most unusual, 6mm chain I have a number of spare galvanised hooks and claws - just send me a PM.

Jonathan

 

[noelex]

Having done something similar with my old windlass, I can vouch that that will be a significant help reducing corrosion on the motor, especially with the crazy Kobra design of positioning the motor so close to the chain entry.

My only concern would be the ventilation. A quick google search suggests around 80-85% efficiency for a motor such as this, so at a typical operating current the motor has to dissipate around 100w of heat. That is a lot of heat for a small box.

I would check the windlass temperature and see if this is of practical concern. It should be easy to add some ventilation holes away from where the salt water is likely to be splashed if necessary.

 

[Neeves]

On ventilation:

We use computer fans to cool our galley refridgeration units, in common with many here, in addition to the fan supplied. Its much easier on a cat but we have vented air from our bow lockers (which are interconnected) and suck air through our hawse pipe using normal domestic ducting. The fans are well away from any water but we have 'fresh' air cooling for the fridge and freezer which could be used to increase ventilation over (or through) your box

I love items that can complete multiple tasks.

Jonathan

 

[GHA]

Having done something similar with my old windlass, I can vouch that that will be a significant help reducing corrosion on the motor, especially with the crazy Kobra design of positioning the motor so close to the chain entry.

My only concern would be the ventilation. A quick google search suggests around 80-85% efficiency for a motor such as this, so at a typical operating current the motor has to dissipate around 100w of heat. That is a lot of heat for a small box.

I would check the windlass temperature and see if this is of practical concern. It should be easy to add some ventilation holes away from where the salt water is likely to be splashed if necessary.

Worth checking for sure, there's a sizeable gap in the box already for the cables but would be interesting to stick a recording thermometer onto the motor and give a it a long run with/without the box to see what happens in the real world, ta.