What more would you want in a windlass/anchor roller setup?

[Ohlin Karcher]

To noelex, where to get one of those chain clutches please? Just what I need!

 

[Neeves]

Ohlin,

Many suppliers, scroll to the end of this link

http://www.maxwellmarine.com/gen_accessories.php?bowrollers

Just make sure you add sufficient reinforcing - it might need to take some hefty snatch loads.

A short strop attached to a strong point with as claw or hook attached, the lifting industry call them clutches, are much cheaper. But you would possibly need to buy a stainless clutch as finding galvanised ones is not easy. I think Ketten and Waelder might have them in their Cromox range.

Jonathan

 

[noelex]

To noelex, where to get one of those chain clutches please? Just what I need!

They are made by several companies. There are two distinct styles, heavy and light duty.

Heavy duty chainstoppers are made by Muir, Maxwell and Lewmar (and possibly others). The Muir and Maxwell models are nearly identical. The Lewmar heavy duty model is newer. It looks like it has been well engineered, but I never used this model.

Light duty chainstoppers are made by many companies. They are less expensive , and smaller (if room is limited) typically they don’t have a lever to quickly release the chainstopper under load and are not as strongly constructed.

A devils claw is also a worthwhile addition. This is incorporated into some heavy duty chainstoppers. The function of the devils claw is different to chainstopper itself. The devils claw is basically a chainhook that can be tensioned by tightening a large stainless steel turnbuckle. It is only used when storing the anchor on the bowroller. The turnbuckle tensions the anchor on bowroller preventing it moving and rattling while removing any force on the windlass itself and eliminating the risk the windlass clutch could slip. Both Muir and Maxwell heavy duty chainstoppers come with option of a devils claw. Unfortunately Lewmar only offer the option of a Devils claw on their very large chainstoppers (too large for most yachts).

You can see in post #10 my Muir heavy duty chainstopper with devils claw (although the devils claw was custom fabricated by the boatbuilder).

This is a photo of the Lewmar heavy duty chainstopper:

This is a typical light duty chainstopper (this is made by Maxwell. They make both light and heavy duty models)

 

[noelex]

Here is a better photo of my Muir heavy duty chainstopper, but with the devils claw removed (the devils claw is only used storing the anchor).

 

[rogerthebodger]

This is my twin bow roller setup

Th bollard has now been converted to a chain stoppers with a flap mounted on the horns of the bollard to act a a stopper in either direction up or down.

This shows it mounted with a bigger bollard aft and the mounting for the windlass in between next to the foot buttons.

Setup a launch

 

[noelex]

Very nice.
That is one tough (and beautiful) bow roller.

 

[Neeves]

A usual from you - predictably neat and well thought out kit.

Jonathan

 

[GHA]

This is my twin bow roller setup

Thing of great beauty! Good few Kg of stainless there, must have cost a bit just for the materials!

Th bollard has now been converted to a chain stoppers with a flap mounted on the horns of the bollard to act a a stopper in either direction up or down.

Ah, excellent idea Stopper at the roller, worth starting the thread just for that, weld on couple of nuts to the cheekplates and fab something up as a flap

Will never be a as pretty as yours but no matter, first priority is V strong and works, pretty comes afterwards these days

 

[GHA]

And another thing.....

Just checked the log, it was 9 years ago the electric windlass was installed, what a life changer that was! So the foot switches are still in the box, never did get round to fitting them, garage door remote has not put a foot wrong downing and upping countless times. But not a great idea to have something so important without backup switches. Though no way are any holes going to be drilled in the deck!

So tempted to sell the foot switches and just go for a trailing lead through a dorade with some sort of waterproof rocker up down switch. Or make roving box for the foot switches. But that just seems too bulky when a hand switch will do just fine..

Nothing much on ebay for a switch though - any ideas? Must be some sort of microphone looking type thing with a trailing lead and a 2 way switch on top..

 

[noelex]

We have adopted the same solution. A wireless windlass controller is used with a corded windlass remote as back up.

These Chinese wired crane controllers are ideal. The seem significantly more durable than the marine alternatives, and of course are a fraction of the price. I was first given this tip by a charter boat operator in Greece. He commented that this was the only windlass remote that lasted in the hands of charter crew.

On some models the bolts holding the two halves together are zinc plated and these should be replaced with stainless steel.

 

[GHA]

We have adopted the same solution. A wireless windlass controller is used with a corded windlass remote as back up.

These Chinese wired crane controllers are ideal. The seem significantly more durable than the marine alternatives, and of course are a fraction of the price. I was first given this tip by a charter boat operator in Greece. He commented that this was the only windlass remote that lasted in the hands of charter crew.

On some models the bolts holding the two halves together are zinc plated and these should be replaced with stainless steel.

Ah, of course - chain hoist pendant controller would do it. Bit bulky but will probably never see the light of day, plus a high voltage controller could keep things running if the solenoid goes. Big ta.

And of course every refit needs a little helper Stainless Stanley is always around keeping a careful eye on things. (He's sprouted arms since this pic)

 

[GHA]

And yet more ....

What about boxing in the motor below deck to keep the salt water off it? Thinking maybe a 3 sided ply/epoxy box with a bottom - let some heat out to side away from the chain.

 

[rogerthebodger]

Having a wheelhouse with an inside steering wheel I fitted a 3 way spring to centre switch in my wheelhouse together with a chain counter for bad weather anchoring.

I do have foot switches as I posted earlier but they need replacing as the sun has destroyed the rubber button.

I also made a remote control but never used in anger.

 

[noelex]

And yet more ....
What about boxing in the motor below deck to keep the salt water off it? Thinking maybe a 3 sided ply/epoxy box with a bottom - let some heat out to side away from the chain.

I think this is a good idea, although the windlass motor does benefit from as much cooling as possible so be careful about restricting the airflow too much. The three sided box should be fine.

On our last boat I installed an aluminium plate with a Sunbrella “skirt” that extended below the windlass. The resulting space was a little small so I installed a bilge blower to direct cool, dry air over the motor. The final step was an automotive product designed for preventing rust in the inside of steel door cavities. This was sprayed and brushed especially over the mild steel motor parts.

For our new yacht the factory installed a very deep aluminium pipe to carry the chain and associated water well below the windlass (see photo). This also seems a surprisingly effective solution, with no sign of any splashed salt water on the windlass itself.

These steps are worthwhile. Even good quality windlasses are a frightening mismatch of dissimilar metals with some mild steel parts.

I would put Stainless Stanley to work on these projects ASAP, especially if he now has arms .

 

[rogerthebodger]

And yet more ....

What about boxing in the motor below deck to keep the salt water off it? Thinking maybe a 3 sided ply/epoxy box with a bottom - let some heat out to side away from the chain.

I did that with my windscreen motor and water found its way in filling the box up and killing the motor.

 

[GHA]

I think this is a good idea, although the windlass motor does benefit from as much cooling as possible so be careful about restricting the airflow too much. The three sided box should be fine.

The kobra has a motor hanging down, some sort of open box should be easy enough, angled base to let any water drain. Stanley reckons thin kitchen chopping boards from the supermarket would be fine Nylon maybe? Would epoxy work to join the edges anyone? Tabs with tapped holes going onto the plate now to mount the box.

 

[rogerthebodger]

A tupperware box could be used as long as some dain holes are added.

 

[Ohlin Karcher]

Ohlin,

Many suppliers, scroll to the end of this link

http://www.maxwellmarine.com/gen_accessories.php?bowrollers

Just make sure you add sufficient reinforcing - it might need to take some hefty snatch loads.

A short strop attached to a strong point with as claw or hook attached, the lifting industry call them clutches, are much cheaper. But you would possibly need to buy a stainless clutch as finding galvanised ones is not easy. I think Ketten and Waelder might have them in their Cromox range.

Jonathan

Very useful info thanks!

 

[Ohlin Karcher]

Here is a better photo of my Muir heavy duty chainstopper, but with the devils claw removed (the devils claw is only used storing the anchor).

Thanks for your posts, this contraption has has gone from something I was unaware existed, to a must-have essential, in one day!

 

[GHA]

So is it worth putting some silica gel or something like that in an open box round the windlass motor? Guessing prob not but you never know