geronimo
Active Member
These two seacocks are beside each other but one is having a bad time.
What do I need to do?
Thank you
What do I need to do?
Thank you
What is wrong with this seacock
- Thread starter geronimo
- Start date
boguing
Well-Known Member
Psychic - we are not. More info please.
30boat
N/A
The seacock seems to be chromed indicating that's probably brass and intended for freshwater use.Replace with bronze or DZR brass.
geronimo
Active Member
more info
All the seacocks in the boat look like new, like the one with the red handle behind. This one for the fresh water for the generator seems to be going through a process that I do not understand. The paint is falling off, it has some "wooly, mossy" almost desintegrating feel to it. I have cleaned it but it continues.
All the seacocks in the boat look like new, like the one with the red handle behind. This one for the fresh water for the generator seems to be going through a process that I do not understand. The paint is falling off, it has some "wooly, mossy" almost desintegrating feel to it. I have cleaned it but it continues.
Tranona
Well-Known Member
They look like ball valves and if they are stiff it is probably due to build up of deposits on the seaard side because they have not been operated regularly. The deposits around the front one suggests the spindle seal is also leaking. Remove them amd free them up or replace using DZR types, readily available from any chandlers.
VicS
Well-Known Member
I'd say there must be small water leak there somewhere. I'm sure if it stayed dry all the time it would never look like that
Its a strainer? so perhaps a small leak on the cover.
Its a strainer? so perhaps a small leak on the cover.
john_morris_uk
Well-Known Member
Why is there a wire cable-tied to the pipe - just visible in the first picture? Where does it go and what is it doing please?
ColdFusion
Well-Known Member
If there are any doubts about it's metallurgy, structural integrity or ability to keep the water out, replace it.
PLEIAS
Well-Known Member
Isn't it a clear sign that there's a reaction of two different metals.I would replace the seacock and then connect the strainer filter via a plastic tube thus avoiding the two metals touching while there's salt water passing through.
Bilgediver
Well-Known Member
Operate it every time you use the boat and keep the salt water from leaking onto it from the filter.
Meanwhile buy a new handle and keep it oily
vyv_cox
Well-Known Member
Can't really tell from your photo but the handle looks like die-cast zinc. The valve is plated so quite probably brass. Neither metals is ideal for seawater systems and the valve would be better replaced. Low cost ball valves are sold by most chandlers and they last well. I have one 15 years old, still works fine.
Tranona
Well-Known Member
Don't think it is zinc. The white stuff is some form of deposit. The handle is the normal rubbish red painted steel - you can see flakes of red paint in the crud on the hull. agree the valve looks plated. From the shape and colour of the handles they are probably Vetus nickel plated brass valves suitable for fresh water and diesl so should be replaced with DZR.
johnalison
Well-Known Member
It looks very like one or two of mine, where the valve is fine but the handle corrodes. I've just wire-brushed the handles and covered with Hammerite which seems to work over the last 2 years.
pvb
Well-Known Member
Those cast handles are useless, and inevitably corrode in time. I prefer to fit valves with plastic-coated steel handles, like in this pic.
2Tizwoz
Well-Known Member
As Vic has said it appears that the plastic cap on the strainer is leaking and leaving a deposit on the strainer body and corroding the handle.
Others have pointed out the unsuitability of some types of valves which people incorrectly use for seawater.
It isn't sufficient to inspect the outside of the valve and assume that all is, or is not, well.
Plain brass will not do for seawater and the internal corrosion or dezincification may not show up until the valve snaps like a carrot.
This brass valve was only in use for eight months.
Periodically remove valves, inspect, and as required, lubricate them. Bronze is initially more expensive but will last a long time.
The valve is there to shut off a hole which can cause you to sink, if you're onboard when it happens.
Others have pointed out the unsuitability of some types of valves which people incorrectly use for seawater.
It isn't sufficient to inspect the outside of the valve and assume that all is, or is not, well.
Plain brass will not do for seawater and the internal corrosion or dezincification may not show up until the valve snaps like a carrot.
This brass valve was only in use for eight months.
Periodically remove valves, inspect, and as required, lubricate them. Bronze is initially more expensive but will last a long time.
The valve is there to shut off a hole which can cause you to sink, if you're onboard when it happens.
Clyde_Wanderer
Well-Known Member
Recently I purchased 2 x 1 1/2" full bore ball valves which are chrome plated and have same handles as op, how can I be guaranteed they are bronze and not brass? The balls are definatly s/s.
Incidently I have to return the valves as I should have purchased 1" as opposed to 1 1/2".
Would I be better to buy all stainless valves, and if so, can I use bronze thru hull fittings with s/s valves?
C_W
Last edited:
Tranona
Well-Known Member
It is probably nickel plated brass - see the Vetus catalogue p111 for examples and therefore not suitable for use with seawater..
There is no need to use Stainless Steel valves. DZR is perfectly adequate and is widely available from any chandlers or on line suppliers such as ASAP.
Clyde_Wanderer
Well-Known Member
Tranona I understand your point about the DZR valves, but how can someone be sure that what they are getting is actually DZR and not just a good quality brass with a good copper content?
I would rather buy stainless than take a chance with inferior quality.
PetiteFleur
Well-Known Member
DZR/Bronze ball valves are about 3x the price of nickel plated brass ones. To give you some idea I paid over £80 for a ¾" and a 1½" DZR ball valve earlier in the year. And they had the 'proper' strong handle NOT the red painted pressed steel ones.
The 'standard' nickel plated brass ball valves(readily available at chandleries) would have been about £25. I got mine from Fox's in Ipswich. ASAP also are very good for DZR/Bronze ball valves. On no account buy 'TONVAL' branded ball valves as they are BRASS - whatever the seller says, and not suitable for use under water.
Tranona
Well-Known Member
As M33 says price is a good indicator. If your supplier does not know the difference when asked change your supplier. For example, the ASAP catalogue clearly indicates the material against each product.