What insulation behind lining carpet?

dgadee

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Just removing old foam (Westerly) and looked at Softrim carpet as lining (Softrim - Lining Direct). They say that it needs something behind it for insulation and prevention of condensation. I was thinking of using that stretch van lining beneath the carpet. What do you think?
 

Alex_Blackwood

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Just removing old foam (Westerly) and looked at Softrim carpet as lining (Softrim - Lining Direct). They say that it needs something behind it for insulation and prevention of condensation. I was thinking of using that stretch van lining beneath the carpet. What do you think?
Why not ask the Softrim people they won't recommend anything that will be detrimental to their product.
 

Refueler

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Just removing old foam (Westerly) and looked at Softrim carpet as lining (Softrim - Lining Direct). They say that it needs something behind it for insulation and prevention of condensation. I was thinking of using that stretch van lining beneath the carpet. What do you think?

If you are going to use Van Lining - then you don't need anything else on top of it !

If you already have the Softrim - then I would suggest the thin insulation sheets that go under laminate floors or closed cell foam sheet such as Depron ... 1.5 - 3mm thickness.

But to be honest - Van lining is good on its own ... its what I used ... and I am VERY VERY happy with it ....
 

justanothersailboat

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Hmm, like Refueler, I used van liner felt instead of the old foambacked vinyl and didn't insulate. No problems yet. But I have a very dry cabin (no drips etc) and I love ventilation. (I'd much rather be cold in fresh air, than warm and stuffy). If you expect to batten down the hatches and then make tea, you might need a higher standard of insulation than I do.
 

Humblebee

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I'm part way through doing the same thing with my Westerly Longbow. Most suppliers of the stretch van lining carpet will recommend, and supply, insulation in rolls. Or closed cell foam/yoga mats, as mentioned above. I don't think the van lining carpet on it's own would provide much insulation and a layer of insulation underneath whatever you use will keep any risk of condensation at bay. Quieter and warmer too!
Plenty videos on Youtube showing how it can be done.
 

rogerthebodger

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When I fitted insulation to my steel boat I sprayed in 50 mm close cell foam and on a boat, I am renovation am fitting 60 mm foam bats to provide heat insulation.

The thicker the foam insulation the better the heat insulation
 

Refueler

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Pal of mine has just lined his cabin deckhead with cork in a roll .... TBH - bl***y awful !!

The Cork went on fine - it just looks like ' DIY Cork roll' ....

Now if he put van lining over that - that would be far better.

BUT van lining actually does well .... I think because of the trapped air in the lining itself ... bit like the Long Johns some of us used to wear in the cold ... the weave was more loose and air was trapped in the weave ...

My boats go from -20C in winter to +30C in summer ... and that Van lining on its own ?? Fine.
 

apogee

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Talk to Hawke House who will be happy to advise. I used 6mm closed cell foam under their self-adhesive carpet lining, it worked well. Their 9mm foam would have worked even better!
 

wallacebob

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Most of the van conversion companies that sell 4 way carpet, also sell closed cell foam. That is , I believe more important on metal bodies. I have used just carpet with good results on three boats now, but I’m just about to re-line my main bed area and I’ll use underfloor foam to give me a bit more warmth and sound deadening. If you search on YouTube for van lining you’ll see lots of examples. Make sure you use hi-temp spray adhesive, well ventilated.
 

dgadee

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On my Seawolf I put van lining then carpet (high temp spray) but then it lost its bow. Not yet repaired so no idea how effective that was.

The Seawolf originally had thick carpet - not foam backed. My Dehler seems to have thin carpet. Neither seems to have condensation problems.

Very hard to work out what to do on this project. The closed cell foam sounds good but I have never used it before and no idea how long it lasts.
 

superheat6k

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On my Turbo 36 the very thin foam backing layer perished, but the vinyl itself was just fine. I detached the vinyl on three edges and scraped / hoovered off the perished foam, I then used B&Q 2mm laminate underlay with a strong carpet spray adhesive (50 degree) onto the bulkhead and foam surfaces, and then glued the vinyl to the foam again both surfaces coated with the same adhesive. The finished result was like new, and no snags in the next 2 years I owned the boat.

Do let the adhesive have a few minutes for the solvent to flash off before bringing the surfaces together and there is not much alignment time as the surfaces will grip each others like brown smelly stuff to a blanket.
 

chris-s

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Be very careful with using some random foam yoga mat. Our boats previous owner used some foam yoga mat to insulate the heads and I’ve recently spent a month of weekends cleaning up the mess of adhesive that turned back to goo due to plasticiser migration. This was without doubt the worse job I’ve ever had to do on the boat, worse than dealing a leaking black tank.




IMG_2025-01-07-211630.jpeg
 

Refueler

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Most Van Lining sellers will set a 'kit' ... I bought a 20m roll with 10 cans of High Temp approved Spray Adhesive as a 'kit' ....

If you wait for the adhesive to 'flash off' then you may end up NOT being able to re-position / stretch the lining. I sprayed and then put in place lining straight away ... stretching / rolling the lining and it stayed where I put ... a few times I had to lift and reposition parts - no problem.
 
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