rogerthebodger
Well-Known Member
The harbour or marina or other authorities need to keep their barnacles and other fouling off my boat or I will charge then rent and the cost of evicting them.
Wet-Sanding the Antifouling.
- Thread starter DJE
- Start date
The harbour or marina or other authorities need to keep their barnacles and other fouling off my boat or I will charge then rent and the cost of evicting them.
thinwater
Well-Known Member
Why would I want you washing you bottom paint residue (toxic) onto my boatyard property, or into our shared waterways? Wet sand if you like, but collect and treat the wastewater, so that you suport the cost of your personal activity, not me and the public. Or dry sand with vacuum. Be responsible for your own impacts. Otherwise you are dumping your pollution and cost on other people, on the grounds that polluting should be free.So much for the "free world"!
Is it is about a free world, or an action that abuses a shared resource for personal benefit? you should be responsible for your own mess. I learned that as a small child.
thinwater
Well-Known Member
Only if that was in your rental agreement. Also rain, excessive wind, cold, and that nasty salt.
pvb
Well-Known Member
The toxic residue from leisure boats pales into insignificance when compared with the toxic residue from commercial shipping.
thinwater
Well-Known Member
Does the speeding of another person make your speeding any less? No, it does not. They are two separate subjects and the policeman and judge will explain that to you. It's just blame shifting. Clean up your own mess.
Heck, just the mess on the ground is reason to clean up after yourself. Would you want it in your yard? No.
chrishscorp
Well-Known Member
If its a commercial job done over here you can pretty much guarantee its been done safely and the waste will be disposed of properly.
JimC
Well-Known Member
I posted this question 11 posts ago but it seems to have got buried. Can someone answer it for me please.
chrishscorp
Well-Known Member
I use it wet, just have a bucket of water i can drop it in whilst on a stick, always wet sand.
I did see one bloke do his 33' hull with a scraper in a day no googles mask or overalls and dry he was dark blue from head to foot by the time he finished
JimC
Well-Known Member
Thanks.
Daydream believer
Well-Known Member
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Crowblack
Well-Known Member
Sorry for delay just picked this up - Jim, always always wet.
Usual technique is to have a hose and also bucket full of water handy and keep the hull and the mesh very wet.
Hose down part of hull to be attacked, dip mesh into bucket and scrub away - because it's very wet and the mesh gets dipped in the bucket often it clears the mesh and speeds up the job. As said the mesh really rips into the antifoul so needs to be rinsed out often.
I use the edge of flat bed with the mesh on without the pole to do the top part where the antifoul meets the grp above the waterline as the mesh is so aggressive you have to go carefully so as not to score the grp of the hull sides. I guess you could mask the hull off but I've never done that and had no probs keeping to the antifoul side of the line.
Sanding the hull before antifouling is a job I don't look forward to but the plasterers mesh has made it quick and easy plus with the pole it's a lot more comfortable.
Hope that helps.
NormanS
Well-Known Member
Is old antifouling, which has done its job in the sea for a year or a season, still actually "toxic"? Messy and dirty, yes, but if it was still toxic, it wouldn't need to be recoated.
rogerthebodger
Well-Known Member
That's a good point. It may be less toxic but will have some toxicity remaining. My antifouling supplier talks about 36 month life I generally wash down and recoat after 24 months.
Dipper
Well-Known Member
I've never sanded my antifouling. Normally I just pressure wash then apply new paint. I didn't pressure wash the last time my boat came out. I just wiped a few slightly dirty areas with a wet sponge 5 months later prior to applying new paint. A few barnacles needed knocking off with a scraper and a little bit of stubborn slime on the waterline was removed with a wet plastic scouring pad. I used Micron which kept the hull pretty clean anyway in a low fouling area (Portland Harbour). I applied new paint in March last year and the boat's been ashore since then. I'm not going to paint it again so it will be interesting to see how it fares this season.
JimC
Well-Known Member
The yard pressure washes my boat after lifting her out. Their pressure washer is rather fierce and sometimes blasts small pieces of antifouling clean off the underlying grp. If I then simply roll the new antifouling on over these areas I get little steps in the finish which look ugly. I don't want to strip the whole hull so I was looking for a way to abrade the affected areas such that the a/f around the bare patches was taken down to a feather edge that wouldn't show through the subsequent coat of a/f. Sounds like the drywall mesh might do this. Coarse wet & dry paper used wet takes forever.
pvb
Well-Known Member
If you only want to work on smallish patches, a coarse Scotchbrite pad would be perfect.
Keith 66
Well-Known Member
It might happen at expensive yards round the Solent but has anone ever seen antifouling run off dealt with anywhere else ? Im curious as I havent seen anything like this done anywhere. It just washes into the creeks or sea.
Some years back when Smallgains creek was dredged i remember one of the PLA officers saying that they would never allow dredging in the upper part of the creek due to the concentrations of heavy metals & toxins from antifoul.
