Wet exhaust hose replacement

[New sailor]

Hi, I need to replace the starboard wet exhaust hose in my Princess 35. It is worn and leaks when the engine, a Ford Mermaid, is on. Do you think that this is a DIY job? I can see that it is a tricky manoeuvre as the hose has to be carefully threaded through some corners etc. However is it as simple as it appears. Clipping onto the manifold and then out . Appreciate comments

 

[PaulRainbow]

Definitely a DIY job. If one is leaking i would change both. If a hose fails it will pump raw water into the engine room.

 

[PCUK]

As Paul says, piece of cake. It's worth checking the different makes to see who's is most flexible to make it even easier.

 

[oldgit]

Been there done that on a P35 with a pair of 41Bs
A pig of a job.
It can be done in the water.
Ideally two of you.
Old hose was a stiff as a post.
We used a grinder to cut hose into small easy to remove sections and to cut some of the rusted clamps.

Still a pain to detach the hose from the glassfibre .
hull fitting,which also need repair and strengthening.
On mine the stainless exhaust connecting pipe had corroded and needed repair.
The new hose needs to be nice and warm as poss to make it as flexible as possible.
Make sure your new clamps will tighten up tightly on your new bit of hose.
The wall of your new hose might be thinner than the old.

Am not ashamed to admit we used a smear of CT1 to ensure a good watertight seal on all joints.
Good luck.

 

[burgundyben]

Replace the hose clips while your at it.

 

[New sailor]

Been there done that on a P35 with a pair of 41Bs
A pig of a job.
It can be done in the water.
Ideally two of you.
Old hose was a stiff as a post.
We used a grinder to cut hose into small easy to remove sections and to cut some of the rusted clamps.

Still a pain to detach the hose from the glassfibre .
hull fitting,which also need repair and strengthening.
On mine the stainless exhaust connecting pipe had corroded and needed repair.
The new hose needs to be nice and warm as poss to make it as flexible as possible.
Make sure your new clamps will tighten up tightly on your new bit of hose.
The wall of your new hose might be thinner than the old.

Am not ashamed to admit we used a smear of CT1 to ensure a good watertight seal on all joints.
Good luck.

Thanks for the information. I am a bit concerned about doing it. I hadn't really considered the hull section . The boat is coming out of the water to let us have a go at it. The boat was my husbands, but he died a few months ago, so my son and I are going to do it. We initially thought the leak was from the stern glands and got them repacked. Certainly they needed doing but once back in the water and testing those out we then found it was the wet exhaust hose leaking. Thanks for your comments.

 

[simonfraser]

Thanks for the information. I am a bit concerned about doing it. I hadn't really considered the hull section . The boat is coming out of the water to let us have a go at it. The boat was my husbands, but he died a few months ago, so my son and I are going to do it. We initially thought the leak was from the stern glands and got them repacked. Certainly they needed doing but once back in the water and testing those out we then found it was the wet exhaust hose leaking. Thanks for your comments.

Sorry to hear that

if you’ve not done this kind of job b4 and are selling the boat, leave it as is and move the boat on

 

[oldgit]

This is really a job for fit and flexible couple of folk.
From memory one of the engine hoses follows a rather convoluted route and in the case of the Volvo's has a stainless bit of pipe in the hose on order for it to change direction to avoid something else.
On mine this had seriously corroded due to the carbon in the hose pipe reacting with the stainless.
We definitely needed a small grinder to cut off a number of securing clamps which had rusted solid no amount of WD40 would shift them.
Also buy slightly more pipe than you think you need.