Wessex epoxy resin vs Evo Stik exterior wood glue

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I plan to bond together two sheets of 9mm teak faced ply (one side veneered) to produce an 18mm panel which is teak veneered on both sides. It is for a new cockpit table project.

Therefore I was interested to watch Tom Cunliffe‘s recent video on the subject of Wessex System epoxy resins as a method of bonding sheet plywood together. See the video here (if it is of interest):

The mixing of the resins, hardeners and fillers and the subsequent bonding process all seems very fussy (and not a little tedious) and expensive when compared to using Evo Stik (exterior) wood glue which I can inexpensively buy easily from Screwfix.

I assume therefore that I am missing some huge reason why the Wessex System is superior to Evo-Stik. If someone could enlighten me I’d be much obliged.
 
Recently built several gates & doors. Galv tube frame with wood clading. Prob is, finding seasoned wood that doesn't move with seasonal heat, at least at a price that doesn't frighten off the horses.
So, I laminate decent exterior ply with epoxy, then route out grooves to simulate planking. Give the whole lot a coat of epoxy and finishing coats of whatever colour suites.
So far, delighted clients.
For a cabin table, might just use a good PU glue. Thing is about epoxy, it seals the exterior, esp the end grain, which is where trouble will start.

Disclamer:), I was gifted a 200 lt drum of resin + assorted hardeners. Even technically time expired, it is still far stronger than the wood, so lots of projects on the go.
 
Epoxy is forever. Stronger than the word itself. Glue will fail with moisture eventually. For me its epoxy everytime. If you use a clear tabletop epoxy for the teak surfaces before varnish you will have sealed wood that won't deteriorate at the same rate as just varnish.
 
@DownWest makes a good point about sealing the endgrain. Epoxy would do this, PVA or PU won’t.if you are making a table the I assume you are going to use hardwood lippings, which will seal the ends. Otherwise a good coat of G4 would be a good idea.
 
Hacker said:
@DownWest makes a good point about sealing the endgrain. Epoxy would do this, PVA or PU won’t.if you are making a table the I assume you are going to use hardwood lippings, which will seal the ends. Otherwise a good coat of G4 would be a good idea.
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Yes, hardwood lippings, biscuit jointed and glued in to the Robbins teak faced ply.
 
About a nice cockpit table. As Hacker says, if going for teak finish, makes sense to cap the edges with hardwood strips for a quality job. I would still use epoxy.
If you actually can get teak, wiping the faces with acetone can get the glue to grip better.

Edit. I was thinking thinner 'lippings' than would take a biscuit. Something like 4mm.
 
Robih said:
I plan to bond together two sheets of 9mm teak faced ply (one side veneered) to produce an 18mm panel which is teak veneered on both sides. It is for a new cockpit table project.

Therefore I was interested to watch Tom Cunliffe‘s recent video on the subject of Wessex System epoxy resins as a method of bonding sheet plywood together. See the video here (if it is of interest):

The mixing of the resins, hardeners and fillers and the subsequent bonding process all seems very fussy (and not a little tedious) and expensive when compared to using Evo Stik (exterior) wood glue which I can inexpensively buy easily from Screwfix.

I assume therefore that I am missing some huge reason why the Wessex System is superior to Evo-Stik. If someone could enlighten me I’d be much obliged.
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David Johnson is a great guy, he helped me out big time 2 years ago and repaired a hull crack and applied the barrier coat afterwards. Still keep in touch with him.
 
Kelpie said:
I didn't think it was possible to own a boat and not need to become proficient in using epoxy almost immediately.
Maybe I've been buying the wrong boats.
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I think it’s me that’s missing something - I’ve been boating since ‘95 and never used epoxy yet, excepting Araldite and such like which isn’t “proper” epoxy. Learning needed I think…..
 
Well in this part of the world we buy epoxy glue. Not very expensive but it sure holds everything together. They use it for caulking fishing boats I use it to make furniture but just laminated a bit of teak together for my steering pillar. Epoxy glue is about 6 quid a kilo
 
Never used exterior Evo Stick so can't comment on that. Pu is my go-to glue for exterior work but wouldn't use it to face join 2 sheets of ply as it foams and expands, forcing the surfaces apart unless very well clamped. Titebond Ultimate would be easier to use than Epoxy and would be my choice, with Pu for edgings as it will fill any slight voids in the ply lamination.
 
emmalina said:
Well in this part of the world we buy epoxy glue. Not very expensive but it sure holds everything together. They use it for caulking fishing boats I use it to make furniture but just laminated a bit of teak together for my steering pillar. Epoxy glue is about 6 quid a kilo
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There must be different types of epoxy. West costs about ten times that.
I built a ply epoxy dinghy last year so I've done a fair bit of research in to different brands as I needed a large quantity for that. Never came across anything remotely that cheap in the UK.
 
Kelpie said:
There must be different types of epoxy. West costs about ten times that.
I built a ply epoxy dinghy last year so I've done a fair bit of research in to different brands as I needed a large quantity for that. Never came across anything remotely that cheap in the UK.
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Still not remotely that cheap - but I moved from West to Easy Composites EL2 some years ago and never looked back (much cheaper, lower viscosity, better suited to intermediate temperatures) - 5kg comes in around £20 per KG inc vat/del. Still not six quid mind!

West is great as a 'gateway epoxy' - the pumps, instructions, repair guides etc. are all great to build confidence, but other - cheaper - brands are available!
 
dankilb said:
Still not remotely that cheap - but I moved from West to Easy Composites EL2 some years ago and never looked back (much cheaper, lower viscosity, better suited to intermediate temperatures) - 5kg comes in around £20 per KG inc vat/del. Still not six quid mind!

West is great as a 'gateway epoxy' - the pumps, instructions, repair guides etc. are all great to build confidence, but other - cheaper - brands are available!
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I find most epoxy, polyester and some adhesives are very expensive in the long run. OK if a large project to do but invariably with small jobs, most of the can goes on the shelf and has gone off next time it's needed. Don't know how many part containers of resin and pu adhesive I've binned over the years :(
 
dankilb said:
Still not remotely that cheap - but I moved from West to Easy Composites EL2 some years ago and never looked back (much cheaper, lower viscosity, better suited to intermediate temperatures) - 5kg comes in around £20 per KG inc vat/del. Still not six quid mind!

West is great as a 'gateway epoxy' - the pumps, instructions, repair guides etc. are all great to build confidence, but other - cheaper - brands are available!
Click to expand...
If you look at the specification of West epoxy it's certainly not the strongest or most moisture resistant. West did the best marketing in the history of epoxy.
There are better and easier to use epoxies available. West 5:1 is a nightmare to mix in small quantities. I much prefer 2:1 epoxy. I used to get 1: 1 epoxy but struggle to find them these days. All the money is in the harder. West 5:1 costs the same as 2:1 epoxy or more. They make a killing out of you.
 
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