Webbing genoa furler

I was wondering if anyone has first hand experience -and for how long- of this Facnor product
Yes,
Facnor FD 230
2 years (2 sailing seasons)
Boat is a Benetau First 38

It replaced an older well maintained Furlex.

  • Less force needed to furl the sail. The webbing/drum design give more leverage when you start furling
  • The tack point on the furler is 10 cm further down because of the lower drum (I have a self tacking sail so I had to put a long dyneema shackle between the tack pint and the tack to get correct sheeting angle)
  • I now have an adjustable head stay, because there is room for a turnbuckle inside the furling drum.
  • The furling system can be easily be disassembled without damaging the headstay (no sta-lok terminals to fight with)
  • The webbing is still looking good - no chafe.
  • Impossible to get an override on the drum, due to the construction (I never had any problems with the old Furlex, but have helped to sort out this on other boats)
  • It's important that you use the correct type of leads for the furling line/webbing as the join between webbing&line must pass through, they are a part of the kit (improved leads was introduced last year, works better than the old block I had at the bow).
  • Installed it myself, but had the rigger measure and put the threaded terminal on the lower end of the stay (Reused the stay since it was replaced a few years ago).

I still feel it was a nice upgrade
 
I will be interested in the replies to the OP. Looks good. A quick Google doesn't reveal any prices. How much for, say, the FD 230?
 
I will be interested in the replies to the OP. Looks good. A quick Google doesn't reveal any prices. How much for, say, the FD 230?
I bought it more than 2 years ago - Norwegian "winter" price so don't think that is worth much to you.
Transport seems to by substantial part of the cost I ordered in the autumn with delivery in winter and got reduced price because I could wait to have the shipment piggybacked on a larger shipment.
The UK distributor is http://www.eurospars.com/facnor-/new-flatdeck-reefing-system/ you could try to contact them.
 
Interesting concept to use webbing rather than rope. The webbing would give a lower build up as it goes on the drum so more unifirm power/leverage through the range.
I think it says that the webbing then attaches to rope witha swivel. I presume therefor that you need to get the length of the webbing just right to fit between the drum and the winch where you might winch in the rope. Anyway webbing is now quite common for trailer winches and has advantages like lower profile build up and none of that scary settling of wire rope under tension. good luck olewill
 
Interesting concept to use webbing rather than rope. The webbing would give a lower build up as it goes on the drum so more unifirm power/leverage through the range.
I think it says that the webbing then attaches to rope witha swivel. I presume therefor that you need to get the length of the webbing just right to fit between the drum and the winch where you might winch in the rope. Anyway webbing is now quite common for trailer winches and has advantages like lower profile build up and none of that scary settling of wire rope under tension. good luck olewill

When the sail is completely unfurled all he webbing will be on the drum with a full drum and the swivel is close to the drum cage.
So you will have most power/leverage when you start to furl.

For each turn that goes off the drum while furling you get a little less power/leverage and less webbing to pull for each turn.

If you have a large headsail (large fore triangle / overlap) you might need to reduce the length of the webbing to get less webbing pr turn on the drum/profile.

But you will not get overrides on the drum as you can have with a rope drum.

On a rope drum system you will try to have a little rope on the drum as possible, on the webbing drum you try to have as much webbing as possible on the drum.
 
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