WD 40

I was told that WD40 was OK on land, but shouldn't be used in a marine environment. Don't know why, but I've never had it on board, and never felt that I'd missed it. I always use proper penetrating oil for locked threads etc. and lubricants like Sailkote for the other things on board like sail slugs, squeaking stern gear, blocks etc., and as the engine is diesel, it doesn't seem to need the damp starting techniques that land based petrol angines (older type) seemed to need. Even the YC 4stoke O/Bs (for which I'm responsible) seem to work well without it.
 
No significant downside afaik. I spray it around generally. Good stuff. More importnat in winter, obviously.

Very surprised to hear malc's report that some say it isn't suitable for marine use - I just dont think that's correct. I'd agree with malc that proper products for the job (like penetrating oil on seized threads) can work better but where WD40 is really useful I find is simply covering metals in a fine film of oil to prevent corrosion. I see that, not lubrication, as its main purpose
 
It's not a smart move to use WD40 on open circuit boards, as it leaves a layer that can hold salt and conduct.

But as a general purpose way of keeping moisture off engines and out of closed connectors, it works well for me.

dv.
 
I spray it around on a regular basis. Isn't it supposed to stop rust,well i'd have thought a cast iron block in a salt enviroment could do with all the help it can get.

I will however,avoid cables as mentioned,cant be doing with them breaking down.
 
I use Duck Oil and in some areas also Waxoyl both much better and last, although I have run out and started using WD40 (when needed) until I get some more duck oil and Waxoyl.

Not easy to find Duck oil but can order online and some car spares places do it, and I don't remember seeing it available in halfords.

I generally use it in Winter, the best thing is waxoyl on the stern bolts and mountings BUT not on rubber hoses etc - (as stated on the tin).
 
Biggest drawback with WD40 is the graphite that is in the mix. Very good at protection from water etc, but will fail the white glove test.

I came across a silicon spray that was as good at the water dispersal, but was cleaner. Trouble is I have lost the details . . . . . . /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif
 
You cant possibly refute an argument by quoting an article in wikipedia.

To the best of my knowledge the formulae is secret still, but will accept that graphite is not listed in the safety leaflet - but then it probably wouldnt anyway! /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif
 
If there was graphite in WD40 it would conduct electricity and therefore defeat the object of a product that displaces water on HT leads and such .
 
Fair comment about Wiki articles

BUT

Since you are telling us that it contains graphite do quote the source of your information!
 
[ QUOTE ]
Don't forget that WD 40 stands for MOD Spec WD 40 ie 'Water Dispersant 40 days' and needs replenshing every 40 days!

[/ QUOTE ]

No it doesn't.

Nothing to do with MOD as it is an American company.

I was always told the 40 refers to the formula number.
 
I though the 40 was the 40th formulation tried

But perhaps that's a bit more nonsense I read in Wiki.
 
Thanks for the replies, some very interesting comments. Will continue to use on engine and other items that need protecting. Started to use it when a slight rust mark appeared on one of the engine mountings
David
 
I agree with Scubadoo that Duck oil is better for spraying for corrosion resistance. A person I know got a bollocking from a clock repairer for spraying the movement of a grandfather clock with WD40, although it fixed the problem at the time, the clock repairer explained that the sticky residue left trapped dirt which caused increased wear on the touching parts.
 
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