Wayfarer - great little boat

[lw395]

Thanks, Langstone...although, I'm not certain to whom LW395's quote was referring...I haven't been through this thread since January. I'm not quite as young as I was, but I'm not much older than my boat. ....

I had to push the little 'view post' button on the right of the quote, to be reminded I was talking about Myself and SWMBO.

 

[Greenheart]

You're more technically adept than me LW, I didn't know one could "view post"...

...but in that case, I have the feeling Langstone-L was inferring that your maturity was part of the reason for the inability to clamber round an Osprey without special aids! Some confusion there; possibly mine. I hope nobody is insulted, but I don't think the problem has been attributed to the right person in the right boat.

I really must read the whole thread again, on a screen bigger than my phone's.

 

[Captain Sillyboxes]

Hi everyone, we were out in my wayfarer today when the rig tensioner came off the mast and we had to continue without the jib. It was attached by three little bolts that sort of clung into the groove at the back of the mast but evidently they didn't cling well enough.

My feeling is that I'd be better off using self-tapping screws directly into the mast slightly off to one side of the central groove, this seems to me that it would be more secure. Does anyone know of any problem with doing it this way, or have a better suggestion for how to reattach it? thanks

 

[TernVI]

Hi everyone, we were out in my wayfarer today when the rig tensioner came off the mast and we had to continue without the jib. It was attached by three little bolts that sort of clung into the groove at the back of the mast but evidently they didn't cling well enough.

My feeling is that I'd be better off using self-tapping screws directly into the mast slightly off to one side of the central groove, this seems to me that it would be more secure. Does anyone know of any problem with doing it this way, or have a better suggestion for how to reattach it? thanks

Depends on what mast section you have. Some are very thin in places.
Clamping to the back of the mast using some machine screws into little aluminium squares inside the slot ought to be very secure without damaging the mast. My old boat has a strip of ali inside the slot, tapped in couple of places to take machine screws.
Or you can put screws inside the slot poking out and put nuts outside to hold the fitting.

 

[rwoofer]

Do you mean a highfield lever? What about rivets?

 

[[159032]]

A picture would help.

 

[Kelpie]

Could be a Highfield lever or a muscle box. Either way, there are various ways of fixing it to the mast.

 

[Captain Sillyboxes]

Thanks for the replies, here are some photos. Naively I assumed that wayfarers would all be the same in this respect but I see not.

Seems it would be difficult to fit anything like a nut etc into the groove as there isn't room to get it in there. It would be possible to put screws inside the slot facing out but they would have to be narrower than the old (m5) screws or else there would be no way to get them in there.

Looking at it now, rather than positioning the tensioner off-centre as per my previous idea, perhaps I could get some slightly longer self-tapping M5 screws, and attach them through the groove and into the aluminium at the inside of the groove?

I've already made a couple of holes in this mast to add a cleat for cunningham / reefing and it was already holding a cleat for the main halyard when I got the boat.

 

[Paul HD]

Hi All,

Got myself a Wayfarer and it is in a fair condition. On giving it a bit of clean today I came across two cracks at the foot of the mast. I am hoping I do not need to replace the mast. Could it be welded or is there another way to fix this problem?

The cracks are at the foot of the mast and they face towards the bow.

Something else I have come across. The two screws are not biting they just keep turning. Is it best to use pop rivets? I know it is a pain if I need to replace the wheel but the screws are pretty big already.
Look forward to your comments.

 

[SaltIre]

What effect would cutting an inch off the bottom of the mast have? Obviously the boom would be an inch lower but would it matter? Would the standing rigging be able to be "taken up" to compensate?
Or could a sleeve be fitted round the outside of the cracked bit?
Just random thoughts - I don't know the answer!

 

[Paul HD]

What effect would cutting an inch off the bottom of the mast have? Obviously the boom would be an inch lower but would it matter? Would the standing rigging be able to be "taken up" to compensate?
Or could a sleeve be fitted round the outside of the cracked bit?
Just random thoughts - I don't know the answer!

Thanks for the reply.

That thought did cross my mind, but I would have to make a new hole for the large pin that goes through the mast. The sleeve sounds interesting.

 

[mjcoon]

...
Or could a sleeve be fitted round the outside of the cracked bit?

I had wondered if at least putting a large Jubilee® hose clip round the mast would be a worthwhile precaution. Also what unnatural unintended strain has caused the cracks in the first place...

Mike.

 

[TernVI]

The sheave in the mast could be rivetted on, you don't need posh monel rivets for this, aluminium ones will do.
They can soon be drilled out of you need to work on the sheave.
Or you could use 'rivnuts' and machine screws, easily bought on ebay.
The mast foot. You need to secure the extrusion to the cast foot so that it's tight. As soon as it is allowed to move it will tear those cracks further. A strip of aluminium around the outside to stop the extrusion spreading is one idea. A joobly clip is another.
Make sure any band around the mast doesn't make it hard to step the mast.....
Just drilling and tapping the foot and getting more screws in with some anti-corrosion stuff like Duralac might be enough, but you need to keep an eye on this. You could use anything instead of Duralac if you don't have it, maybe a sealant or even paint or grease. Basically you want to halt the corrosion as best you can, water will lie in the joint if there is a gap.
Beware of corrosion with any stainless parts you add.
You could shorten the mast, but you'll regret it every time the boom hits our head, and taking the boat outside its class rules will probably reduce its value.

 

[Paul HD]

I had wondered if at least putting a large Jubilee® hose clip round the mast would be a worthwhile precaution. Also what unnatural unintended strain has caused the cracks in the first place...

Mike.

The sheave in the mast could be rivetted on, you don't need posh monel rivets for this, aluminium ones will do.
They can soon be drilled out of you need to work on the sheave.
Or you could use 'rivnuts' and machine screws, easily bought on ebay.
The mast foot. You need to secure the extrusion to the cast foot so that it's tight. As soon as it is allowed to move it will tear those cracks further. A strip of aluminium around the outside to stop the extrusion spreading is one idea. A joobly clip is another.
Make sure any band around the mast doesn't make it hard to step the mast.....
Just drilling and tapping the foot and getting more screws in with some anti-corrosion stuff like Duralac might be enough, but you need to keep an eye on this. You could use anything instead of Duralac if you don't have it, maybe a sealant or even paint or grease. Basically you want to halt the corrosion as best you can, water will lie in the joint if there is a gap.
Beware of corrosion with any stainless parts you add.
You could shorten the mast, but you'll regret it every time the boom hits our head, and taking the boat outside its class rules will probably reduce its value.

Thank you for the tips. I like the idea of Jubilee clip or Aluminium strip.
I think I will go with the standard rivets to replace the screws. Like you say they are not that difficult to drill out.

Thanks for mentioning Rivnuts. I have not heard of them before but they look very useful.

Cheers,
Paul.

 

[Captain Sillyboxes]

Hi all, I have a couple of wayfarer questions.

1) my topsides and deck are generally quite scuffed and tatty as it's an old boat. I'm thinking of painting it with epoxy paint. I would fill any cracks and holes and sand it down first. Does anyone have any general advice about such a project?

2) I've replaced the seal on the aft buoyancy tank before but am generally suspicious of its ability to keep the sea out in the event of a capsize. I'm considering fitting a little circular access hatch inside the problematic rectangular one, which I would then permanently glue down. Has anyone done anything like this before or have any insights into the advisability or not of doing this?

Thanks

 

[Kelpie]

What about fitting permanent buoyancy inside the tank? E.g. foam blocks, empty plastic bottles. Much easier than sealing it up and completely reversible.

 

[ctva]

Wot ‘e said.

With all tanks, the neoprene seals (and the internal plus external bungs) need replaced every now and then but do work well. Also check the seams of the tank at the hull for leaks. Check by filling it up with water, add a dye to help location, of any leaks. It is a very useful space to keep gear and would be lost with your idea except for small items.

 

[jamie N]

Deleted.

 

[DJE]

Hi all, I have a couple of wayfarer questions.

1) my topsides and deck are generally quite scuffed and tatty as it's an old boat. I'm thinking of painting it with epoxy paint. I would fill any cracks and holes and sand it down first. Does anyone have any general advice about such a project?

2) I've replaced the seal on the aft buoyancy tank before but am generally suspicious of its ability to keep the sea out in the event of a capsize. I'm considering fitting a little circular access hatch inside the problematic rectangular one, which I would then permanently glue down. Has anyone done anything like this before or have any insights into the advisability or not of doing this?

Thanks

1) This guy is good on filling and fairing GRP.

2) I seem to remember that the Wayfarer is designed to float with the hatches out of the water when capsized. So you shouldn't get too much water in the tanks.

 

[Kelpie]

1) This guy is good on filling and fairing GRP.

2) I seem to remember that the Wayfarer is designed to float with the hatches out of the water when capsized. So you shouldn't get too much water in the tanks.

Some versions like to invert though...