water in cylinder(s) of VP2030D?

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yotter

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Help! I am a numpty!
I was running my VP2030D providing cooling water to the intake via a fresh water hose. It was running fine. I stopped it and now it will not turn over. I found water coming out of the air filter and suddenly realised what had happened. The water pressure had probably caused the cooling water to enter the exhaust valves via the exhaust elbow. I am not trying to turn the engine over uning a spanner on the crank shaft bolt. It will turn so far then stop, hydraulic locked? Any ideas how to get the water out. I am thinking of slackening the injectors and turning again.

Any ideas most welcome
 
Yip, take out injectors or glow plugs and turn over engine with spanner, then when no further water comes out turn the engine on the starter, then refit either injectors or glow plugs. Probably entered the back cylinder, so maybe try expelling the water from this cylinder first and if its free to turn when you take injector or glow plug out the other cylinders may have escaped. Hope you didn't try to start engine with starter motor when flooded, you could have bent a con-rod. Fingers crossed.
 
Slackening the injector pipes will do absolutely nothing, you need to remove the injector, but hopefully the glow plugs will come out. You need to remove the glow plug too, not just slacken it. And get engine running again asap.
 
Does this engine have decompressors?
If not a 'dirty' trick is to tighten up the rocker/tappet adjustment until the water can be slowly squeezed out of the exhaust valves.
Don't overdo it, I do not know how much valve to piston clearance there is in this engine.

Anybody know that clearance?

You want to get the water out ASAP, get some oil of some sort in and get it running ASAP.
Second best to actually running is cranking fast decompressed.
 
Many thanks for all the advice. At home now having a beer to relax:-)

After cranking over on starter with glow plugs removed. I put them back in, tightened injector fuel lines. She started up, but as usual after the fuel system has been disturbed, a bit rough and smoky/steamy not sure which since very dark/wet/windy in Scotland tonight. I am pretty sure the fuel system is self priming but about to look for the manual. Back to the boat tomorrow morning for further testing, fingers crossed.
 
Did you check if there is water in the oil sump,I think its a good idea,if there is some water you need to change the oil and the oil filter
 
I once had to do this at sea. I'd moved the exhaust water seal, but the new position meant that with a heel on, water emptied into the exhaust elbow and filled a cylinder or two on my MD2030. Realising what had happened, got crew to sail, and took the injectors out, turned engine over, first by hand, then on starter motor, added a little oil in each cylinder, turned over again, refitted injectors, bled it and started the engine and ran it for an hour (in gear). With the seawater having been only in there perhaps 30 mins, it doesn't seem to have done any harm, and has run for a couple of hundred hours since then without problems. Getting the water out quickly and then getting the engine running again seems the best cure!
 
The engine was started within about an hour, and it was fresh water, so hopefully all will be well.

Geoff, many thanks for your account, at least I know I not the only one.

I cannot help but thinking that the design is not great, in respect that water can enter the cylinder during normal operation when extended cranking is required. Just need to remember to shut the inlet seacock after fuel filter changes!
Angus
 
RichardS said:
As the poster above says, the injectors should be closed so water cannot escape out through the injector.

Richard
Click to expand...

Injectors are closed by default. It's only when the injection pump raises the pressure to enormous pressure that the injectors open.
 
Sorry, should have said earlier. The engine oil is looking very clean, I have checked it a few times since Friday. Has run around 1200 rpm for approx. 10 minutes on zero load (apart from the sail drive in gear to mix up some flushing oil). Full power trial when back in water next week, wish me luck:-)
Angus
 
yotter said:
Sorry, should have said earlier. The engine oil is looking very clean, I have checked it a few times since Friday. Has run around 1200 rpm for approx. 10 minutes on zero load (apart from the sail drive in gear to mix up some flushing oil). Full power trial when back in water next week, wish me luck:-)
Angus
Click to expand...

Great News. Looks like you are going to be ok.

My only experience has been dunked outboards. Fresh water and a change of oil worked fine
on two occasions.
 
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