Wanted - Manual for Leroy Somer S801 Anchor Windlass

[sailor22]

Does anyone have a manual for a Leroy Somer S801 Anchor Windlass such as fitted to Beneteaus, Wauquies and similar French boats in or around 2002/2003?

Mine has the warping drum seized onto the shaft so that the clutch does not work and the only way of lowering is under power. Guess what? Today the windlass will lift the anchor under power but all the DOWN button produces is a 'click'.

I need to know how it works and where to hit it!!

Ideas please.

 

[Mandarin331]

I'm not sure you'll find one, we have the original 'manual' which came with our bene 331 and is a pretty bad leaflet which tells you nothing useful. The company no longer make windlasses, so unless Beneteau can help or someone on this forum has dismantled one....?

Hopefully someone has worked on then and will respond to you.

 

[Tex]

I recently dismantled mine for a similar reason. The issue for me was the drum was clamped tight against the main body. I discovered this was due to a corroded pin on the shaft which should prevent this.
The drum has to be removed before you can do anything and it is on a long threaded part of the shaft. I had to use plenty of WD40 and then a heavy hammer to gently tap the lever in the drum, eventually getting it to shift and unscrew.
I have some photos taken before putting it all back which I can email.
After taking apart and reassembling it's now working well.

 

[nickf]

You may find that it is only the foot switch that needs replacing, the terminals often corrode. The main issue for me was having to drill out the fixing screws.

 

[jeanpaulcopie]

That firm Leroy-Somer was, and I hope still is very helpfull. I think that if you wrote to them they would be able to send send you a copy of their handbook

MOTEURS LEROY-SOMER
Boulevard Marcellin Leroy
CS 10015
16915 Angoulême Cedex 9
FRANCE

 

[jac]

Have one on our 36cc but the manual is rubbish.

Second the point re foot switches. One of ours failed so we've had both replaced.

 

[sailor22]

Thank you everyone for your help.
I will PM Mandarin for some photos.

 

[Joe Beneteau 423]

I recently dismantled mine for a similar reason. The issue for me was the drum was clamped tight against the main body. I discovered this was due to a corroded pin on the shaft which should prevent this.
The drum has to be removed before you can do anything and it is on a long threaded part of the shaft. I had to use plenty of WD40 and then a heavy hammer to gently tap the lever in the drum, eventually getting it to shift and unscrew.
I have some photos taken before putting it all back which I can email.
After taking apart and reassembling it's now working well.

Hi Tex I know it was a few years ago now but I've just turned up a similar issue. Do you still have the photos of how you took it apart? Which way does it release? Is it a standard lefty loosey thread?

 

[kdk]

Hi Tex I know it was a few years ago now but I've just turned up a similar issue. Do you still have the photos of how you took it apart? Which way does it release? Is it a standard lefty loosey thread?

Hi, I am also looking for a Manual or any info for the Leroy Somer S800 / S801Windlass.
Fitted to my recently purchased Antares 760.

 

[Plum]

Hi, I am also looking for a Manual or any info for the Leroy Somer S800 / S801Windlass.
Fitted to my recently purchased Antares 760.

Hi, here is the wiring diagram :- Wiring diagram.jpg

The basic windlass is pretty bullet proof and maintenance free so other than external electrical wiring, switches and relay box there are who things to focus on, in my experience:-

1) The foot switches on top of the windlass can deteriorate, particularly the flexible membrane which can crack and let water in. The switches are a common part available from chandlers/online, not unique to Leroy Somer. If in doubt, fit new ones. just a screwdriver job from the top, as you lift them out the wires are exposed so you can re-attach the new ones. Ensure you seal the new switches to ensure no water can penetrate.

2) occasionally remove the warping drum, it just unscrews from the shaft. If this has not been done for a long time it may be seized on and you have to hope brute force works! once off, remove the chain stripper by unscrewing two small screws. Now you will see the two haves of the clutch, the gypsy and the drive pin. make sure everything is greased, including the shaft/threads and the clutch tapers. Grease the two small screws that hold the chain stripper to ensure they do not seize into place. Reassemble and you are all good for another year. Keep up this maintenance. I have been doing this for 8 years and my winch is now 22 years old. The main case has never been opened.

www,solocoastalsailing.co.uk

 

[Beneteau381]

Hi, here is the wiring diagram :- Wiring diagram.jpg

The basic windlass is pretty bullet proof and maintenance free so other than external electrical wiring, switches and relay box there are who things to focus on, in my experience:-

1) The foot switches on top of the windlass can deteriorate, particularly the flexible membrane which can crack and let water in. The switches are a common part available from chandlers/online, not unique to Leroy Somer. If in doubt, fit new ones. just a screwdriver job from the top, as you lift them out the wires are exposed so you can re-attach the new ones. Ensure you seal the new switches to ensure no water can penetrate.

2) occasionally remove the warping drum, it just unscrews from the shaft. If this has not been done for a long time it may be seized on and you have to hope brute force works! once off, remove the chain stripper by unscrewing two small screws. Now you will see the two haves of the clutch, the gypsy and the drive pin. make sure everything is greased, including the shaft/threads and the clutch tapers. Grease the two small screws that hold the chain stripper to ensure they do not seize into place. Reassemble and you are all good for another year. Keep up this maintenance. I have been doing this for 8 years and my winch is now 22 years old. The main case has never been opened.

www,solocoastalsailing.co.uk

Mine cratered last month as posted then. The field magnets are glued to the body, the glue fails, they then jam on the rotor and break!
They are then scrap.

 

[Pleinmont]

Hi
Does anyone know if spares are still available for Leroy Somer windlasses?
The side plate on mine is corroding around the screw heads and doesn't look like it's got much longer.

I could possibly get a new plate made up of alu sheet if spares are unavailable but just thought check here first.
Always seemed odd they didn't paint that plate the same as the main body.
Rest of it works fine.

 

[Plum]

Hi
Does anyone know if spares are still available for Leroy Somer windlasses?
The side plate on mine is corroding around the screw heads and doesn't look like it's got much longer.

I could possibly get a new plate made up of alu sheet if spares are unavailable but just thought check here first.
Always seemed odd they didn't paint that plate the same as the main body.
Rest of it works fine.

View attachment 162068

View attachment 162071

Mine is same make but different model. I have not found a source of parts, they have been out of production for well over a decade. Overall they are very robust and last very well. Mine is 23 years old. As long as you replace the switches on the top before the flexible buttons perish and let water in and keep the drive-shaft and cones greased they need no other maintenance (other than maintaining the anti-corrosion coatings). You may find that as you remove those screws that hold the cover-plate the thread in the aluminium will strip creating another problem. If I were you I would leave well alone and just clean, prime and paint to hold that corrosion in its tracks.

www.solocoastalsailing.co.uk

 

[Plum]

Hi
Does anyone know if spares are still available for Leroy Somer windlasses?
The side plate on mine is corroding around the screw heads and doesn't look like it's got much longer.

I could possibly get a new plate made up of alu sheet if spares are unavailable but just thought check here first.
Always seemed odd they didn't paint that plate the same as the main body.
Rest of it works fine.

View attachment 162068

View attachment 162071

I think yours is the S3000 series, the only info I have on that model is here:-

Leroy Somer S3000 series windlass.pdf

www.solocoastalsailing.co.uk

 

[Pleinmont]

Thanks Plum! That's very helpful. I'll try and prime/paint the bare alloy and replace the switches as suggested.
Weirdly the photos online of that windlass show the end cap as painted white the same as the body. Not sure why or when mine ended up as bare alloy plate.
Agree those retaining screws have 'stripped threads' written all over them

When you replaced the switches did you just put a gasket of Sika around the base to stop water ingress?

Also did you unscrew the warping drum with the handle that fits in the hole (turning back to the stern i assume) or use something more substantial?
I've not serviced mine before so it is probably due some grease on the innards if I can unscrew the drum.

 

[Plum]

Thanks Plum! That's very helpful. I'll try and prime/paint the bare alloy and replace the switches as suggested.
Weirdly the photos online of that windlass show the end cap as painted white the same as the body. Not sure why or when mine ended up as bare alloy plate.
Agree those retaining screws have 'stripped threads' written all over them

When you replaced the switches did you just put a gasket of Sika around the base to stop water ingress?

Also did you unscrew the warping drum with the handle that fits in the hole (turning back to the stern i assume) or use something more substantial?
I've not serviced mine before so it is probably due some grease on the innards if I can unscrew the drum.

I sealed my new switches with mastic but can't recall which make. When you lift off the old switches they are connected to short lenghs a wire and the new switches has a short lenth of wire attached to them too so just a simple case of connecting wires by whatever means. Mine already had chock-block screw connectors that I reused.

The supplied handle SHOULD give enough torque to unscrew the warping drum but if the shaft, thread and cone clutch parts are all greased it should not be very tight. Anticlockwise to unscrew. When I refit my warping drum I tighten it by hand enough such that the cone clutch alows the gypsy to slip just before the motor stalls. I have all chain so never use the warping drum.

There is nothing to maintain inside the casing.

Www.solocoastalsailing.co.uk

 

[Pleinmont]

I sealed my new switches with mastic but can't recall which make. When you lift off the old switches they are connected to short lenghs a wire and the new switches has a short lenth of wire attached to them too so just a simple case of connecting wires by whatever means. Mine already had chock-block screw connectors that I reused.

The supplied handle SHOULD give enough torque to unscrew the warping drum but if the shaft, thread and cone clutch parts are all greased it should not be very tight. Anticlockwise to unscrew. When I refit my warping drum I tighten it by hand enough such that the cone clutch alows the gypsy to slip just before the motor stalls. I have all chain so never use the warping drum.

There is nothing to maintain inside the casing.

Www.solocoastalsailing.co.uk

Thanks for the comprehensive advice Plum, will give it a go - cheers

 

[shortjohnsilver]

Hi, here is the wiring diagram :- Wiring diagram.jpg

The basic windlass is pretty bullet proof and maintenance free so other than external electrical wiring, switches and relay box there are who things to focus on, in my experience:-

1) The foot switches on top of the windlass can deteriorate, particularly the flexible membrane which can crack and let water in. The switches are a common part available from chandlers/online, not unique to Leroy Somer. If in doubt, fit new ones. just a screwdriver job from the top, as you lift them out the wires are exposed so you can re-attach the new ones. Ensure you seal the new switches to ensure no water can penetrate.

2) occasionally remove the warping drum, it just unscrews from the shaft. If this has not been done for a long time it may be seized on and you have to hope brute force works! once off, remove the chain stripper by unscrewing two small screws. Now you will see the two haves of the clutch, the gypsy and the drive pin. make sure everything is greased, including the shaft/threads and the clutch tapers. Grease the two small screws that hold the chain stripper to ensure they do not seize into place. Reassemble and you are all good for another year. Keep up this maintenance. I have been doing this for 8 years and my winch is now 22 years old. The main case has never been opened.

www,solocoastalsailing.co.uk

Plum I have this same, now obsolete, windlass on my boat Beneteau 36cc c2002. It’s efficient but I’ve only ever used it electrically to lower, believing that there was no free fall capacity? Previous owner never used it. Having found your informative post I’m now wondering that I may actually be able to allow the windlass to free fall run?

 

[Plum]

Plum I have this same, now obsolete, windlass on my boat Beneteau 36cc c2002. It’s efficient but I’ve only ever used it electrically to lower, believing that there was no free fall capacity? Previous owner never used it. Having found your informative post I’m now wondering that I may actually be able to allow the windlass to free fall run?

Hi. Yes, it is possible to release for a free fall but I never do as the process is not straightforward. You can only do it if you are all chain. To release you have to loosen the warping drum using the supplied handle which reduces the clamping of the chain gypsy so the chain free falls. You then need to tighten the warping drum to the right amount to allow winching in but not so much that the motor can stall and you can only do that when not winching so you only know if you have it set right when you try to power winch in. Lots of trial and error. Once I have my clutch set right I don't like to disturb it and I mostly power winch both in and out from aft.

 

[shortjohnsilver]

Plum that’s all understood. I suspect the drum is corroded - I’ve tried to release it with no success. Not ideal having to power the anchor down but that’s what we have always done, so I’ll continue to do that. Thanks. I imagine that it will give up entirely in the next year or two and I’ll have to replace with something more user friendly.
Mostly sail the East coast so not too onerous.