VSR?

[JumbleDuck]

I'm trying to choose a VSR for the boat. Yanmar 1GM10 with a stock, titchy, alternator. Has anyone anything bad (or good) to say about a Durite 0-727-33

or a Samlex BS100

both of which are about forty quid on eBay.

 

[RivalRedwing]

I would take the durite - recognised name plus greater capacity

 

[JumbleDuck]

I would take the durite - recognised name plus greater capacity

Thanks. I have already excluded the slightly cheaper no-name stuff from consideration. While the Durite is a higher capacity, both will take way more than my puny alternator will provide and the Samlex would be a little easier to mount.

 

[NUTMEG]

Jumbleduck, may I ask a question? I currently have a 1/2both/off switch. Trouble is, I keep forgetting to switch it over. Would these devices replace my switch? If so, how do they work?

 

[JumbleDuck]

Jumbleduck, may I ask a question? I currently have a 1/2both/off switch. Trouble is, I keep forgetting to switch it over. Would these devices replace my switch? If so, how do they work?

The idea is that you fit them between the two batteries. When Battery 1 goes up to a preset voltage (13.3V, say) because the alternator is producing output and Battery 1 is well charged, the relay closes and allows Battery 2 to charge as well. You can then connect Batteries 1 and 2 to different circuit (normally 1 to the engine and 2 to everything else) and both will get charged although only one s used for starting.

There are further refinements: many are dual sensing, so you can connect the alternator to one battery and a charger to the other and the link will be made when either source is life. The Samlex one can be configured to link both batteries for starting.

However, they don't really replace a 1-2-Both switch, because that's for choosing which battery or batteries to supply a single circuit, and a VSR is best if you have two different circuits fed by two different batteries which you want to charge together, though you could use in a 1-2-Both setup to make sure that both batteries were charged when the engine was on, however the switch was set.

On my boat I am going from single to dual circuit so I have pulled out the 1-2-Both (it's on For Sale at a tenner) and fitted a dual circuit switch which turns both circuits on together and can also combine them for emergency use of the house battery for starting. The VSR will sit between the batteries and have its earth switched with engine ignition so that it's only active when the engine's on, as I am also fitting a dual-battery solar regulator which would be confused by a VSR.

Sorry, bit of a ramble.

 

[Tranona]

I have the BEP Marine VSR which looks the same as the Duritc and also the isolator switches of the same shape that make up a switch cluster. Very good set up and fitted to both my 1GM and the Volvo in my Bav. Gives you independent isolation of each bank and a means to parallel both banks for emergency start.

 

[JumbleDuck]

I have the BEP Marine VSR which looks the same as the Duritc and also the isolator switches of the same shape that make up a switch cluster. Very good set up and fitted to both my 1GM and the Volvo in my Bav. Gives you independent isolation of each bank and a means to parallel both banks for emergency start.

Thanks. I was very tempted by that, but I have very limited space available. The cluster would have had to lurk in a cupboard whereas one of these

fitted neatly through a bunk front. It also let me get the switch significantly closer to the batteries, and I dislike unswitched supplies. The BEP switches are very neat, though, and if they did a dual circuit + combine in their standard size I'd have gone for it like a shot.

I'm still thinking of their VSR, but it's almost twice as much as the others.

 

[BabaYaga]

The VSR will sit between the batteries and have its earth switched with engine ignition so that it's only active when the engine's on

This sounds a bit odd to me. Both these relays cut out at 12,8 V. Have you considered that it will take quite a while for the starter battery to SINK to that voltage after being charged? If turning the engine off means that the VSR is no longer active (no negative connection), how will it to able to separate the batteries at the preset voltage?

 

[sailorman]

I have a cyrix this is the new version
http://www.barden-ukshop.com/victron-cyrix-1224-120a-battery-combiner-2750-p.asp

I think the OP lower one is in fact what i have which has been rebaged since the new version was released

 

[JumbleDuck]

This sounds a bit odd to me. Both these relays cut out at 12,8 V. Have you considered that it will take quite a while for the starter battery to SINK to that voltage after being charged? If turning the engine off means that the VSR is no longer active (no negative connection), how will it to able to separate the batteries at the preset voltage?

I don't think the idea is for 1 to charge 2 when there is no supply coming in. My understanding is that the cut-out voltage is there to disconnect the VSR when the engine is being started, and the voltage in the starter battery drops a lot. Well, that's what I want it to do, anyway.

 

[JumbleDuck]

I have a cyrix this is the new version
http://www.barden-ukshop.com/victron-cyrix-1224-120a-battery-combiner-2750-p.asp

I think the OP lower one is in fact what i have which has been rebaged since the new version was released

Thanks for that - yes, it does look like the same thing, doesn't it?

 

[Tranona]

Thanks. I was very tempted by that, but I have very limited space available. The cluster would have had to lurk in a cupboard whereas one of these

fitted neatly through a bunk front. It also let me get the switch significantly closer to the batteries, and I dislike unswitched supplies. The BEP switches are very neat, though, and if they did a dual circuit + combine in their standard size I'd have gone for it like a shot.

I'm still thinking of their VSR, but it's almost twice as much as the others.

On my Bavaria I have the 3 switches in a row with a through bulkhead mounting and a fascia plate on the outside. The VSR is on the afternoon bulkhead in the engine bay. Very neat.

 

[JumbleDuck]

On my Bavaria I have the 3 switches in a row with a through bulkhead mounting and a fascia plate on the outside. The VSR is on the afternoon bulkhead in the engine bay. Very neat.

Sounds good, and if I knew a good way of undrilling 3" diameter holes I might be tempted ...

 

[ghostlymoron]

I'm trying to choose a VSR for the boat. Yanmar 1GM10 with a stock, titchy, alternator. Has anyone anything bad (or good) to say about a Durite 0-727-33

or a Samlex BS100

both of which are about forty quid on eBay.

I like the look of the Samlex and it has the starter combiner built in which AFAIK the BEP/Durite doesn't have.

 

[JumbleDuck]

I like the look of the Samlex and it has the starter combiner built in which AFAIK the BEP/Durite doesn't have.

It does look quite smart. On the other hand, I have a manual battery combiner switch and the Durite has a reassuring light on it to say that it's working ... decisions, decisions.

 

[BabaYaga]

I don't think the idea is for 1 to charge 2 when there is no supply coming in. My understanding is that the cut-out voltage is there to disconnect the VSR when the engine is being started, and the voltage in the starter battery drops a lot. Well, that's what I want it to do, anyway.

It just strikes me that you are planning to use the VSR in an unusual way, by letting the engine key switch (by way of another relay?) control the negative connection. It might work if the VSR automatically opens when the negative connection is lost (at engine shut down), but if the VSR stays closed you would risk flattening both battery banks by using the domestic loads.
BTW, "cut out voltage" was perhaps the wrong term, what I meant was "disconnect voltage", the voltage where the VSR opens in order to separate the battery banks. I am not sure that there is also a cut out voltage for the reason you outline above.

 

[JumbleDuck]

It just strikes me that you are planning to use the VSR in an unusual way, by letting the engine key switch (by way of another relay?) control the negative connection. It might work if the VSR automatically opens when the negative connection is lost (at engine shut down), but if the VSR stays closed you would risk flattening both battery banks by using the domestic loads.

Excellent point. I assumed that without the negative the VSR would revert to disconnected, but I will check before installing. I started another thread to ask if anyone makes VSRs with only-when-the-engine-on functionality and someone who sounded as if he knew what he was doing said that he uses a relay in the earth line.

If by any chance the VSR does stay closed when it loses the earth, I'll put the ignition-controlled relay in series with it, between the batteries. Dead easy, though of course would need a rather bigger relay.