VP MD2030-D glow plugs replacement issue

psousa

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Hi all!

After long time having cold-start issues, decided to learn about and DIY glow plugs test and replace.

So, removed 2 of them, tested it's resistence (both failed) and tested them by direct connect to a battery (both failed too, as expected).
The 3rd one is blocked by something related with the injection system (see the picture). This part have a hose connecting to the top of the diesel filter and, in the other side, to the injectors, so I suppose it is the injection pump or something. I'm affraid to be messing around with this part. The only thing I touch in diesel circuit are the both filters (to replace them).

Any way, I've tested this particular glow plug resistence in it's place and failed too, so I would like to replace it too, but I'm affraid.

So, what do you suggest:
1. leave this glow plug untouchable (even knowing it's not working) and replace the other 2 only
2. disconnect that diesel circuit hose and try to remove it and pray to be enough to remove the glow plug (I'm not sure... there is a possibility to continue to be blocked by the hose connection too and I don't know if I can rotate that small 'head' which host the hose connection).

If I decide to disconnect the hose, I will introduce air in the injection circuit AFTER the oil filter and BEFORE the injection. How can we remove this air from circuit? By pumping diesel to circuit using the small pump near the diesel filter (as we do when changing the filter)? Will the air introduced AFTER the diesel filter leave the circuit by doing this procedure?

PS: when I remove glow plugs, they are coal/black dust covered... is it normal?

Many thanks!
 

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We recently faced a similar problem. I replaced the glow plug on no.2 cylinder but not on the one obstructed by the fuel line. The engine started just fine with 2 good glow-plugs. If you take off the fuel line be careful - I was warned by the local Volvo mechanic that it can easily be broken.
 
Hi all!

After long time having cold-start issues,.............

If I decide to disconnect the hose, I will introduce air in the injection circuit AFTER the oil filter and BEFORE the injection. How can we remove this air from circuit? By pumping diesel to circuit using the small pump near the diesel filter (as we do when changing the filter)? Will the air introduced AFTER the diesel filter leave the circuit by doing this procedure?

PS: when I remove glow plugs, they are coal/black dust covered... is it normal?

Many thanks!

We recently faced a similar problem. I replaced the glow plug on no.2 cylinder but not on the one obstructed by the fuel line. The engine started just fine with 2 good glow-plugs. If you take off the fuel line be careful - I was warned by the local Volvo mechanic that it can easily be broken.

You will need to bleed the system between the filter and the injection pump assembly, by using the feed pump you describe and venting the air at the injection pump end.

It is only a relatively inexpensive hose but you would need to be careful when detaching it from the banjo on the injection pump not to break the tail off that as it is a rather more expensive component.

Yes its is normal for non functioning glow plugs to be covered with soot.
 
I had on fracture at a banjo after removing and replacing several times when I was chasing down an oil leak ('O' rings on the shafts of the throttle and stop controls if you are interested)

I silver soldered the union back together and sprayed it with Volvo Green paint and I challenge anyone to spot that its not like new...

Silver solder is very easy to use and reasonably strong; certainly stronger than soft solder. Brazing might be better, but I've only got silver solder...
 
Thank for your replies.

According to the attached picture, in spite of seems easy to remove the banjo by removing 23, after 43 (if hose removal is not enough to replace the glow plug), the banjo (21 is what you call "banjo", right?) is part of injection pump (I can't buy it separately), and an injection pump kit costs 1500e :O

Considering this, I think I will leave the 3rd glow plug untouchable. What could be the consequences of this? Could the continuous unbalanced crank cause some imbalance/instability to the cilinders/combustion parts?

22249.jpg
 
Thank for your replies.

According to the attached picture, in spite of seems easy to remove the banjo by removing 23, after 43 (if hose removal is not enough to replace the glow plug), the banjo (21 is what you call "banjo", right?) is part of injection pump (I can't buy it separately), and an injection pump kit costs 1500e :O

Considering this, I think I will leave the 3rd glow plug untouchable. What could be the consequences of this? Could the continuous unbalanced crank cause some imbalance/instability to the cilinders/combustion parts?

View attachment 60312

In the extremely unlikely event of the banjo being damaged (and you would have to be fairly kack handed to damage it) you wouldn't have to buy a whole new injection pump. I wager that any decent diesel repair shop would find you a banjo and hollow bolt etc that would be identical but without the marine price loading.
 
I would have thought any diesel fuel injection testing/repair place should be able to supply the bolt(43) - probably also supply the banjo(21) as these are almost certainly fairly standard parts. Don't forget this engine is based on the Perkins Perama range which VP took over. Perkin dealers should be able to help you(and may be cheaper!). If you go this route(I would), also make sure you replace any copper sealing washers/'O' rings you remove when you dismantle it. You will then get 3 working glow plugs and if one fails again you should still be OK with 2 plugs.
PS - you won't get any 'crank unbalance' if you only have 2 plugs working - as soon as the engine fires you will be fine.
 
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Your engine should fire up OK with two functioning glow plugs under normal conditions although it might struggle in cold conditions. I would not be happy having one not working and would go the extra mile, remove the fuel pipe and banjo and replace the third one. You are unlikely to damage the banjo fitting and they are easily obtainable anyway.
 
Curiously, the glow plugs I removed from engine are labeled: "Perkins 85366190 12v". A Google search return no relevant results for this brand/part#.
Local store ask 43eur for each VP brand glow plug. I know NGK have some cheap solution but I only feel confident with VP parts :\
 
Curiously, the glow plugs I removed from engine are labeled: "Perkins 85366190 12v". A Google search return no relevant results for this brand/part#.
Local store ask 43eur for each VP brand glow plug. I know NGK have some cheap solution but I only feel confident with VP parts :\

Probably because its a Perkins marinised engine . Originally made in Japan by Ishikawajima Shibaura Machinery, Ltd. .... see Vyv Cox's website

God knows ( or maybe only VP really know) who makes the replacement glowplugs they sell as genuine VP spares.
 
For future reference, here is the part. And yes, they still come labeled "Perkins 12v 185366190" (miss the first "1" from the previous glowplug part#, that's why can't find relevant results on Google/Ebay) plus the reference "322415".

35 eur + VAT each.

Today night I'll change 2.
If I need, I 'll change the 3rd one. If cold start runs well, I'll not take the risk of getting dust/green paint into the fuel injection pump by changing the 3rd one.


IMG_20161014_155558.jpg
 
psousa;5847 I know NGK have some cheap solution but I only feel confident with VP parts :\[/QUOTE said:
Vp are not in the business of manufacturing their own glow plugs. The alternators, starter motors, relays and everything else you can think of are selected from a range of standard parts supplied by third party specialist manufacturers. Buy any make of outboard and you will not find Suziki, Mariner or Tohatsu spark plugs. The only time you may need to pay through the nose for original parts is to preserve a warranty . After market parts from a reputable source are fine and probably a lot cheaper than VP extortionate pricing policies.
 
Changed 2 glow plugs few minutes ago. 8 seconds on the switch and boom! Like a charm :)
Keep the 3rd one as spare part.

You're probably right for the glow plugs, third engines, but it's kinda psychological thing. Any way, there is a chance of after market really expensive parts providers don't care too much with the quality and more with the price, as in several other businesses. For instance, when I owned the mercruiser 4.3 I saw many comparisons of aftermarket exhaust parts (manifold, elbow, risers...) with lot's of core diferences. For instance, in the thickness of the body and also on the water channels dimensions. Even gaskets differers a lot. These details could make a difference on reliability of an engine we need on the most adverse conditions not to mention these are a fundamental parts of such engine and a failure could costs a lot!
For sure Volvo does not build those all parts but they probably choose and control quality of the providers.
 
Vp are not in the business of manufacturing their own glow plugs. The alternators, starter motors, relays and everything else you can think of are selected from a range of standard parts supplied by third party specialist manufacturers. Buy any make of outboard and you will not find Suziki, Mariner or Tohatsu spark plugs. The only time you may need to pay through the nose for original parts is to preserve a warranty . After market parts from a reputable source are fine and probably a lot cheaper than VP extortionate pricing policies.
What then would be the non VP equivalent?
NGK is a respected and widely used brand of spark plugs and glow plugs. What is the equivalent NGK part?
 
What then would be the non VP equivalent?
NGK is a respected and widely used brand of spark plugs and glow plugs. What is the equivalent NGK part?
An equivalent has already been discussed previously in this thread from Perkins for one.

If you insist on using NGK, they are available from parts4engines .com at £9.30 per. Whilst when I cannot get access to the relevant details on part number by searching catalogues until Monday.
Why don't you give those nice guys at NGK Hemel Hempstead a call? While you are about it try Champion and Denso to name a couple more.
 
Changed 2 glow plugs few minutes ago. 8 seconds on the switch and boom! Like a charm :)
Keep the 3rd one as spare part.

You're probably right for the glow plugs, third engines, but it's kinda psychological thing. Any way, there is a chance of after market really expensive parts providers don't care too much with the quality and more with the price, as in several other businesses. For instance, when I owned the mercruiser 4.3 I saw many comparisons of aftermarket exhaust parts (manifold, elbow, risers...) with lot's of core diferences. For instance, in the thickness of the body and also on the water channels dimensions. Even gaskets differers a lot. These details could make a difference on reliability of an engine we need on the most adverse conditions not to mention these are a fundamental parts of such engine and a failure could costs a lot!
For sure Volvo does not build those all parts but they probably choose and control quality of the providers.

Very sensible decision regarding the exhaust parts which are best described as being exclusive to that manufacturer.
I was once in an outboard shop listening to a customer complaining regarding the cost of replacing a rectifier on a sail drive, the customer pointed out that the identical part number and manufacturer is available from a electronics supplier at a fraction of the price, the mechanics answer- "Yes, but this a marine one". ????
 
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